Help picking up crampons

[Dr_Crash]

Hi,

 

I just bought some mountaineering boots and need crampons for them. The boots have a steel 1/2 shank and a sole that is compatible with all kinds of crampons.

 

I have no idea what to get. From what I've read it looks like some hinged crampons, semi-automatic or automatic, would be good. It looks to me like semi-automatic might be best because 1/ not all boots are compatible with a toe bail, and I have no idea what my next pair of boots will look like in a few years (cancel that argument if more and more boots get the toe thingy those days), and 2/ I've read about automatic crampons getting off on ice with shoes that are not hyper super stiff (even though my boots may not qualify for climbing water ice any time soon because of the 1/2 shank, I've read that about the Makalu for example).

 

But again, I don't know a thing about crampons. I'd like something that works well for my current application (climbing the Cascade volcanoes and glaciated peaks) and hopefully will also be okay for more (water ice as encountered on alpine climbs) as I progress as a mountaineer.

 

Thanks for your advice. As always, links to places where good gear is on sale are appreciated too.

 

drC

[Alpinfox]

Picking up crampons?

 

Remember, lift with the legs...

 

 

For standard routes on the volcanoes, get a pair of alluminum pons you can strap on any pair of boots/shoes.

[Bug]

I just saw a pair of Petzl/Mozer crampons that were really light. They strapped on with a good looking system that would be easy to fix or jury-rig in the hills. They would be my first choice for the volcanoes.

Also do a search on crampons in the gear section. Or go to 2nd ascent in Ballard and ask to talk to someone knowlegable. They fix you up for 20-30 cheaper.

[ashw_justin]

You can get BD Contacts with toe strap/heel bail, they are pretty light and easily adjustable. Good for boots that have a the heel rib only.

 

 

http://www.bdel.com/gear/alpinism/contact_clip.php

 

Or if you want to go really light with light hiking boots get some aluminum strap crampons such as:

 

[Zoran]

Grivel have new line of lightweight crampons. Grivel Air Tech is one which will fit your needs perfectly.

Have a look:

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER<>folder_id=667991&PRODUCT<>prd_id=744025&bmUID=1088603882019

Edited June 30, 2004 by Zoran

[genepires]

Can't tell how flexible your boots are or will become with lots of use. I the boot is very flexible, there is only one kind of crampon to use and that is a hinged crampon held on with straps that wrap around your foot. (a strap on crampon- enter joke here) I've been using a simond alligator crampon for many years on any kind of boot imaginable. It has a double hinge and made of steel for durablility. The only drawback is that it has only 8 points going downward (with standard 2 front points) so the middle portion of the boot lacks points. Walking with them is still secure but takes getting used to them if you have been using 12 point crampons for a while. I've used them for climbing ice in crevasses and they work just like any other crampon. They sell them at MEC for cheap.

[Bill_Simpkins]

Yeah. For volcanoes, I'd go with all straps.

Grivel G10

Camp 490

Stubai

[Dr_Crash]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I've found the best pair of crampons, which is a pair of borrowed crampons These should work for a while (semi-automatic Grivel) as their owner isn't going to climb for at least a year. I had them with me on Mt Adams yesterday but there really was no reason to use them, but I expect to work just fine.

 

drC

[icegirl]

another vote for the Grivel...

[Stretch75]

I'm a machinist in auburn and I've recently reversed engineered a pair of the Grivel Semi autos. Made them out of mild steel and then had them heat treated. Way tougher than the store bought ones! Tips stay sharper, longer too.

I was thinking of buying a sheet of steel, then sending it out to a laser jet shop down the road. I interested.....

I can make just about any kind too...

[selkirk]

Grivel G-12's have my vote.!