Drederek Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 Some new shtuff at smith. The first 3 bolts led us up thru ratshit-covered ledges. The next move to a torso-sized flake wasn't so bad but when I left the flake the flake left the cliff. Then traverse up and right on the disintegrating crack. It took all my nerve to unclip the last bolt and trust the anchor (which was in a piece of rock that appeared identical to the aforementioned flake). First pitches of Freedom Rider were a bit crumbly. At least I got a few good pieces in p2! Oregon's volcanoes got nuthin on the Olympics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 Dudes...anything involving the white,leached, cone shaped navajo sandstone cap in Zion National Park: Â Wheat Chex, East entrance ZNP 1985, I accidentally kicked loose a 20 pound block on my partner...by the time it reached him 50 feet below it was a rain of sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 Boston peak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 The sandstone at Peshastin Pinnacles has to be the worst "rock" I've ever climbed on. Â In general I think it's pretty good, although that belay on Bomb Shelter has got to be one of most shiznitty places on the planet. Some of the slings around that solution pocket are glued in place with "pigeon do". I highly recommend a N-95 mask up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 yellowbreak road, marble cyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 18, 2004 Author Share Posted June 18, 2004 Â looks fuckin bomber to me brah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 The worst rock I ever climbed was on an alpine route (FA by one of the more prolific posters here.) Â I was seriously in fear of my life... When asked why he didn't mention it in the route description, said ascentionist simply said... "Oh! That was covered by snow when we did it I think." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted June 22, 2004 Share Posted June 22, 2004 solo Climbed on the West side of Hayrick butte by Hoodoo ski area a long time ago while totally baked in winter, big loose plates of rock and scary shizz in my shorts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted June 22, 2004 Share Posted June 22, 2004 Just climbed East Willman Spire this last weekend, now that was some good choss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 22, 2004 Share Posted June 22, 2004 Did you really do E. Wilmans? I was up there on Sat. We saw a older blonde guy and his pretty girlfriend and two fellows who were scrambling the North and South Peaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 22, 2004 Share Posted June 22, 2004 Hadley Peak = Big choss heap! Larabee Peak = like CBS said. Chuckanut, south dihedral = sucks to be on lead. TR the thing and don't pull the blocks out. North Ridge Nasakwatch Spire= The whole peak is a precarious jumble of stacked blocks. It's like Jenga, if you pull the right one out at the bottom, the whole thing might tumble down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 22, 2004 Author Share Posted June 22, 2004 oh come on nesakwatch granite is more bomber than the bugaboos. you were just off route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 22, 2004 Share Posted June 22, 2004 Nope. The blocks on route are just a little bigger. I will post the evidence tonight. The proof is in the pudding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 22, 2004 Share Posted June 22, 2004 Â Colorado has some mighty tasty choss. Â Any of the Cascade Volcanos could win the title. Â The Kangaroo (WA Pass area) has some of the deepest granola I have ever seen. I think I postholed up to my knee in one spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 oh come on nesakwatch granite is more bomber than the bugaboos. you were just off route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 23, 2004 Author Share Posted June 23, 2004 suuure looks bomber to me  didnt you know that angle of repose increases with size of material? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 Theres some nice solid rock on the approach though.... Stop and do a little slabbin on the way down.... "MENTOS, the Freshmaker!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 23, 2004 Author Share Posted June 23, 2004 i dont see anybolts??? how do you know where the route goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 You just follow the shadow of the rope in front of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marylou Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 Been here before with this topic. It's still Mt. Custer for me  Oh rats, I was sort of planning on climbing that this summer.  Is it really horrid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 Adding another vote for Maple Canyon. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 Ditto on Boston... Â Catbird... that was me and Derwander on the wilmans spires. You were in front of us so we taked N and S. We then climbed the East and then over to Wilmans peak and on to Columbia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 Did you really do E. Wilmans? I was up there on Sat. We saw a older blonde guy and his pretty girlfriend and two fellows who were scrambling the North and South Peaks. Â I was up there on Sunday, thanks for the steps, it made the snow gully much easier in sneaks. BTW you climbed that thing again, I thought you did it last year, just can't get enough choss, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 E Wilmans Spire has some choss. The approach to Assinaboine had enough choss that it turned me around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 I once heard a guide in the Canadian Rockies say that climbing in the rockies is like climbing overhanging talus, always push not pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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