[TR] Mt. Hood- Sandy Glacier Headwall 6/12/2004

[Ducknut]

Climb: Mt. Hood-Sandy Glacier Headwall

 

Date of Climb: 6/12/2004

 

Trip Report:

Decided to take advantage of the weather window and try the Sandy Headwall.

 

Loaded up at 1 am at Timberline. The high point was seeing Iain in his Pattagucci pants and hopping into a snow cat at 1 am.

 

Once underway we slogging up the Palmer to Illumination Saddle. Nice firm snow the whole way. Cold and windy in the Saddle. We noticed 3 sets of skis in the Saddle, so we hoped that ?Iain and party kicked nice steps for us. We roped up and descended the Reid. We noticed a party high up Leuthold's. Nice work.

 

We skirted Yocum Ridge at 8,300 feet and walked on to the Sandy. No crevasse like noted in previous TRs. There does appear to be a 'shrund at the 8,600 ramp.

 

We traversed out on the Sandy looking for a way to the route.

 

The route looked like it was in fine shape.

 

 

We traversed far to the climbers left to swing around the hanging glacier and 'shrund. Didn't see many open crevasses.

 

Weather appeared to be good and window apeared to be open long enough for the route. You can see that the other volcanos were out and weather was changing but ok for now.

 

We committed to the route. Climbing was good with only minor pebble and ice chip fall. Sorry Ivan no TV sized blocks hurtling down the slopes.

 

 

Looking back across the Sandy to Yocum it was clear that crevasses were still covered but the 'shrund was gaping.

 

Once we got in the chute we observed evidence of past slab avys. There was a solid ice layer that was covered in 4-8 inches of unconsolidated snow with a light crust. We stuck to the firm ice. Pickets placed well in the solid consolidated snow and ice. Had styrofoam snow lower down, firm ice covered snow for decent crampooning and step kicking. Cool temps and breeze helped maintain conditions. We ascended into a lenticular at Queen's Chair and appreciated the previous Leuthold's party steps inthe 8 inches of new sugar snow. The previous party also laid a nice boot path across the ridge to the summit. Conditions included 8 inches of fresh snow and 30-50 feet of visibility. We tagged the summit and descended to the Hogsback. Lots of new snow since last weekend.

 

We bumbled down to Timberline through the clouds and rain.

 

6800 feet of ascent and descent, approximately 8 miles of hiking.

 

Gear Notes:

Placed one picket per rope length all the way up chute. Second tool was helpful in a couple of spots. Should have used a lot more sunscreen. Double shot of expresso to fuel the drive home. Now sleep

[sobo]

Well done, Brad! Nice to hear that somebody is getting out. BTW, who'd you partner up with?

 

So, Iain catching the snowcat, eh? Hmmmmmmmmm...

[Hal_Burton]

We ascended into a lenticular at Queen's Chair and appreciated the previous Leuthold's party steps inthe 8 inches of new sugar snow. The previous party also laid a nice boot path across the ridge to the summit.

 

Yer welcome.

 

So, Iain catching the snowcat, eh? Hmmmmmmmmm...

 

We all have our lapses of judgement at that hour of the morning.

 

 

Nice job on Sandy. We noticed you guys crossing the Reid. Looks like a nice time.

Say, are those ice runnels on the cliff bands of the headwall? Anything touching down to the glacier?

[iain]

I deny all of it!

 

P.S. the west side stuff remains in great shape. There is some funkiness to the snowpack though.

 

This is to the west of the summit: 10" slab

 

Somewhere on the Reid HW, Leuthold down to the right, Yocum in the b.g.

 

el yocum:

 

My lazy partner:

[Chad_A]

Nice pics Iain

 

Good job on doing the route, Ducknut! Man, all this weather looks like it's kept it in spring conditions up there. Doesn't look too different from when we did it in early April. How's the schrund on the Hogsback looking these days?

[iain]

The schrund is typical, but new snow has covered up many of the crevasses on the glaciers out there (though weakly, I would guess). Crossing climber's left was quite straightforward but the crack is visible quite far left. Noticed a small crown fracture line all the way around the hogsback up above the schrund. Would have made for an interesting time when that cut loose.

 

For those with Hood plans, South, Sunshine, Reid HW, Leuthold, maybe Eliot HW all appear to be in shape at the moment, and apparently Sandy HW too, good job guys. Some annoying postholing in spots. Breakable crust abounds on the glaciers, and windslab was encountered up high in spots.

 

Now I want to know how someone knew who I was, stepping into a snowcat. Am I that much of a gaper?

[Redoubt]

Now I want to know how someone knew who I was, stepping into a snowcat. Am I that much of a gaper?

It was the fact that your name was prominently written, Mountie-style, on the front of your helmet.

[Ducknut]

Now I want to know how someone knew who I was, stepping into a snowcat. Am I that much of a gaper?

 

Well actually it was the name on the back of the head lamp. After seeing how how high up you were and what time we finished I wish we had taken the snow cat...Definitely a recovery day today

[iain]

oh yeah. yes the sandy is worth doing, but takes a few calories for sure.

[ivan]

Now I want to know how someone knew who I was, stepping into a snowcat. Am I that much of a gaper?

It was the fact that your name was prominently written, Mountie-style, on the front of your helmet.

 

or the name on your snazy pmr red jacket?

 

wow, the mountain pix makes it still look totally sweet up there!

[Lady_SkyTramp]

Hi,

Here is a pic of Yokum ridge taken last weekend from Illumination saddle - can you guys please please please tell if one of these arrows points to the right place to cross it? I bet for the upper one, but... Thank you sooo much

 

(Oops, it's in attachment - how would I post a pic?.. Dunno yet...)

Edited June 24, 2004 by Lady_SkyTramp

[iain]

Wow this is the ultimate in beta collection. You can drop even lower than both of those entrances for a very easy crossing of Yocum Ridge. That upper one looks pretty innocuous, but around the corner it gets into some steeper traversing and you will have to downclimb directly above, and negotiate a good-sized bergschrund getting back on to the Sandy Glacier. So if you want things interesting, take the upper points you've marked. If you want a relaxing stroll, go lower than this picture shows, below the cliffs.

[texplorer]

Wow, Yocum looks to be in good texplorer conditions. If I wasn't headed to Yosemite I would be given that thing a go. Muuuhahahahahahahaha

[Gaper_Jeffy]

We should install a Cyber Cafe at Illumination Saddle. That way if anyone has route qualms they can just post here and continue their climb once someone responds.

[Lady_SkyTramp]

I may bring more pics next Monday for the FAQ