[TR] Mt. Garfield- Infinite Bliss 5/15/2004

[cracked]

[Alpinfox]

MattP said:

4. The descent off the back is probably not a good option, despite apparent rappel anchors that would indicate a possible route that way. The last time somebody went down there, they described it as an absolute nightmare. It is much safer to retreat way you came.

______________

 

Matt, could you please elaborate on the above? That descent down to the Taylor River road looks pretty easy (albeit currently snowy). Looks like one single-rope rappel and then a ~two mile walk down the road back to the car versus the mind-numbingly dull and potentially rockfall riddled 3.5+hrs of rappeling.

 

 

To the person who asked about approach shoes: I think wearing comfy rock shoes and not having to change back and forth is the way to go. Ken Ford wore approach shoes for a good portion of the climb when he did it, but I tried it and didn't feel very confident in my footing, so I kept my rock shoes on. Maybe I'm just a wuss.

 

To the Awagen guy: Dude! The unbolted stuff is 4th class! Grow some testes and quitcher whinin!

 

I would say that there are parts of it that are definately overbolted. I suppose I'm in the minority there, but there ARE places where you could easily Z-clip if you weren't paying attention. Furthermore, I skipped many bolts and backcleaned several; more evidence that it's overbolted in spots. I felt that in some spots the bolts were more useful for route-finding than for protection.

 

It's a fun route and I commend the FAs on their hard work and financial contribution.

 

The Alpinfox has spoken.

[mattp]

Fox - that is about all I know. There are some anchors on the back side of the summit formation. Do not rappel that way because I am told that they don't get you anywhere.

 

Oh yes, to "elaborate:" I DO know two guys who have actually descended that way -- my friends David Whitelaw and Chris Greyell climbed this same face without any bolts, about twenty five years ago (I think they bypassed the shoulder that is the top of I.B., and climbed to the West Peak, a few hundred yards away). They descended off the back and perhaps they missed "the obvious descent gully" but they said it was one of the worse and scarriest descents either one of them has ever made in their life.

 

Until somebody goes and brings back a report to the contrary, I'd tend to believe what I've been told.

[Marko]

I've heard the same thing about that descent. A few years ago a friend of mine soloed (some self-belaying) the face and went down the back side. He spoke of big drops, steep bushwacking, and used the word 'nightmare' a few times.

[Alpinfox]

 

hmmm...

 

AlpineDave and I speculated that LW and co. probably approached the route from that backside and did the route top-down. If it's a "nightmare" I guess they didn't do it that way. Sure was a lot of hardware to haul up that route. All the more reason to leave the 4th class sections unbolted.

[richard_noggin]

Sorry ground up, the last of the route I heard was a real bitch to put in , requiring most of the day to get to the top.

Whatsamatter cyber cops don't want to hear the truth

Phuk,n spray geeks

[j_b]

weird, i don't remember any obvious descent gully ...

[backcountrydog]

sorry for my ignorance of the route, i just havnt looked it up yet, but...does this route reach the same summit that the southwest route reaches? if so the sw rte is an easy descent. it took me just over an hour to get down that way...

[mattp]

Infinite Bliss ends at a satellite peak set apart from the West Peak of Mount Garfield by a few hundred yards which might include some nasty scrambling.

[backcountrydog]

oh...i was under the impression that IB was on the Main peak formation, which on page 211 of beckey shows that the summit im thinking of is a looong way away from the West peak. thanks matt

[Alpinfox]

 

You can check out AlpineDave's trip report HERE

[mkirk]

Adventure Wagon - can you please send me that topo of Infinite Bliss and any advice on the 15th pitch or anything else you can think of. Please send it to (check your PM)Thanks.

Edited June 23, 2004 by mkirk

[layton]

IF you buy 15 hooded sweatshirts form the link on my autosig, you get a free 15th pitch topo bike messenger bag.

[Szyjakowski]

Adventure Wagon - can you please send me that topo of Infinite Bliss and any advice on the 15th pitch or anything else you can think of. Please send it to email deleted so he wont fall to spamers@hotmail.com Thanks.

awagon just post it here. tia.

Edited June 25, 2004 by To_The_Top

[gnibmilc]

it's a sport route! it's good. there is some mandatory 3/4 class scrambling that would SUCK if it were dark or wet.

[dbb]

I don't find class 0.75 climbing that hard... I mean, come on!

[minx]

I don't find class 0.75 climbing that hard... I mean, come on!

 

i do, but only when chewing gum at the same time.

[gnibmilc]

I don't find class 0.75 climbing that hard... I mean, come on!

 

i was scared! for "any man's" edification, i'd say beware, you don't want to get caught above that traverse in the rain or dark. i wouldn't want to dodge rock fall during that traverse.