Stuart - Gendarme

[pzack]

Hey all,

 

I'm thinking of climbing the Gendarme on Mt. Stuart this summer. I'm a desent face climber, but want to improve my crack climbing. What would be the best crack climbs (alpine and cragging) to do to prepare for this?

 

Thanks!

[chucK]

GM Route at Index.

 

Not the Heart of the Country variation. Of course the HOC is quite recommended. Take a lap on that one after you've done GM proper.

[pzack]

Thanks Chuck,

 

I'll give that a go.

Other suggestions???

[John Frieh]

Hand and fist cracks. The second pitch of Finger of Fate is very close in size to the fist crack (though a little bigger). Do orbit and outer space in a half day; the upper pitches of OS will help (avoid the temptation to use the chickheads). Additionally all the belay changes on these routes will help you get up the ridge faster (practice makes perfect...). Are you planning on simuling any of the route? One day or two? Entire ridge or upper?

[iain]

second pitch of gendarme is wild! practice removing recalcitrant #4 camalots.

[matt_warfield]

The Gendarme has layback, fist/offwidth, and jamming at the 5.9 level in an isolated and exposed alpine setting. It also has some routefinding adventures above the Gendarme. Get solid on all of these aspects and then have fun on one of the best alpine routes around.

[chucK]

second pitch of gendarme is wild! practice removing recalcitrant #4 camalots.

 

The sling on that thing is probably getting pretty old. Somebody going up there (Pzack?) should bring the beefiest stainless quicklink that can fit through the eye of a #4 Camalot and install it. Either that or bring something like a funkness and/or wall hammer and clean that sucker.

 

 

[iain]

nice shot of the 1st pitch there! amazing how you can see exactly where people put their feet by the lichen.

[jonthomp]

The gendarme makes the N. Ridge an awesome route, one of the finest I've ever done. Tieton River has great cracks of all sizes and they are all stacked one next to the other so lots of pitches can be done in a day. Nice riverside camping as well. In addition to laybacking the first pitch on the gendarme, I found I could layback and sidepull my way through the widest part of the second pitch taking advantage of my face climbing skills and avoiding my lack of off width skills . NW corner on N. Early Winter Spire would also be good prep. Shorter, but in the same difficulty zone, 5.9. You can finish that and run up the west face also. Makes a fun day and the 5.11 rating only counts for a couple, well-protected moves.

Edited May 12, 2004 by jonthomp

[cracked]

second pitch of gendarme is wild! practice removing recalcitrant #4 camalots.

Or just take a 3.5. We had a 4, but I didn't use it.

[pzack]

Hand and fist cracks. The second pitch of Finger of Fate is very close in size to the fist crack (though a little bigger). Do orbit and outer space in a half day; the upper pitches of OS will help (avoid the temptation to use the chickheads). Additionally all the belay changes on these routes will help you get up the ridge faster (practice makes perfect...). Are you planning on simuling any of the route? One day or two? Entire ridge or upper?

Where is Finger of Fate?

 

Planning on just the upper ridge. I hope to do running belays over the easier terrain (low or mid 5th depending on the situations we encounter). We'll probably do the climb in 2 days, bivvying at the cut-off onto the N.Ridge.

[sobo]

Jeezus, pzack, if you're gonna bivy at the top of the snow couloir anyway, you might as well start from the Lower East Ridge variation and do the whole thing. Would make for a fun 2 days that way.

[pzack]

Thanks All,

 

Climbs Suggested so far:

 

Outerspace

Orbit

Finger of Fate

NW corner on N. Early Winter Spire

GM Route at Index

 

Other suggestions for Hand Jams? Fist Jams? OW?

[pzack]

Why didn't I think of that???

[matt_warfield]

Thanks All,

 

Climbs Suggested so far:

 

Outerspace

Orbit

Finger of Fate

NW corner on N. Early Winter Spire

GM Route at Index

 

Other suggestions for Hand Jams? Fist Jams? OW?

 

If you do these and also are adept at moving fast in the mountains on less difficult terrain you should be good to go. Don't get too wound up about the OW as has been mentioned it is barely OW on 2nd pitch of Gendarme and much or all can be done with fist jams, layback, and face.

[Off_White]

The suggestion to do the complete ridge has merit. If you do all those prep climbs, the lower difficulties will be no big deal, the notch bivy is very scenic (as are some of the higher ones), and given my druthers I think I'd rather come in Mountaineer Creek than over Goat pass. Still, the first time I did it I was impressed by how great just the upper ridge was, so anyway you decide to do it will be very rewarding.

[John Frieh]

Finger of Fate is in Idaho (close to the sawtooths/elephant’s perch and company): as good (personally I think better than) outer space... a true classic. I have the topo/beta; let me know if you'd like it.

 

If you practice, you can easily bust the upper ridge in a day car to car, if not the entire ridge. Not having bivy gear on your back will only increase you enjoyment of this already classic route (and you won’t have to haul big bags on the gendarme pitches). And as evil as it sounds, I loved passing people on that route grunting big packs. Some guy asked me where my bivy gear was and I told him I was wearing it (I had shorts on). There are a number of things you can do to prepare for the ridge as well as things to do while on the route. A few things to do on the route: approach from the Leavenworth and go out the Cle Elum side (will require a car shuttle though, but worth it), simul anything 5.7 or easier (try to get at least 4 normal length pitches per lead change, if not more), and practice.

 

Practice wise here goes:

All the routes listed are great recommendations; you might also want to consider climbing east and/or west ridge of Forbidden, especially if you are new to ridge climbing. The west ridge is great simul terrain. Also look into the West Face of NEWS (do it the same day you do NW corner… you can aid the 5.11 easily) a great climb and it stays cool even on the hottest days. And if you really want to experience OWs, climb Chianti spire. The second pitch will swallow you (10 inches!). Which reminds me of my favorite OW quote: it’s like sex… just get in there and wiggle around until you find something that works… (I might add don’t pump out early…). While you are up there, climb Burgundy (do one one day and the other the next).

 

Some link ups at crags might also be a consideration (definitely easier at some crags compared to others). My favorite at smith goes like this: Climb super slab, rap, climb Moscom, hike misery to Monkey’s, climb Monkey’s via the pioneer variation, rap, climb Trezlar, rap, climb Spiderman (if no line), rap, climb ski ridge, rap, climb white satin, rap, and finally climb zebra/zion (the true test if you can climb any 5.10 after a long day) and karate crack if you have any gas left in the tank. And take at least one pack with you (have the second wear it).

 

Speaking of packs: regardless of whether you opt for one day or two, you will end up probably wearing a pack on the route (I highly recommend the Grivel Manu) for water and shoes storage; practice these routes with that stuff on your back.

 

And Matt is right; the OW isn’t that bad and more importantly it is one mini pitch of the big picture. If anything its more fist in size, which if you practice you will walk (hopefully with a small pack).

 

Let the board or me know if you want more beta, pictures, etc. All this talk about this route is making me wish its summer.

[ken4ord]

Well NOLse there is definitely more than one Finger of Fate out there, cause I know of an other on Cannon in NH.

[skyclimb]

Some link ups at crags might also be a consideration (definitely easier at some crags compared to others). My favorite at smith goes like this: Climb super slab, rap, climb Moscom, hike misery to Monkey’s, climb Monkey’s via the pioneer variation, rap, climb Trezlar, rap, climb Spiderman (if no line), rap, climb ski ridge, rap, climb white satin, rap, and finally climb zebra/zion (the true test if you can climb any 5.10 after a long day) and karate crack if you have any gas left in the tank. And take at least one pack with you (have the second wear it).

 

You have done this link-up?

[John Frieh]

I don't know anything... remember?

[John Frieh]

Well NOLse there is definitely more than one Finger of Fate out there, cause I know of an other on Cannon in NH.

 

Have you done the Idaho version? I need to scan my slides but man oh man it was hot...

[skyclimb]

Wow, that must have been pretty impressive. I was just curious, because that would be a amazing feat worth writing about, thats all.

Have a nice day

[John Frieh]

It has been years (back in those high school days) and we didn't get zebra/zion in due to lines and lack of GU, but yeah, I've done it a few times. It's not as bad as it sounds; especially if you simul Moscow, Monkey's and Sky ridge. You can always substitute cinnamon slab and moonshine for zebra/zion... the goal is to get 20 pitches in a day. I know of a few others if you're interested...

 

A good one at Leavenworth is Outer Space, descend, Orbit, descend, (and Hyper Space if you are that bad ass), hike out and do as many routes on Careno as possible. More hiking than Smith, but assuming you can crank 2 routes on Careno in addition to Orbit and OS, you can break 20 again. My rule at Leavenworth is always try to get more pitches in than ticks.

 

I thought TRs for single pitch and general cragging was borderline wankernous on this site…?

[fern]

I thought TRs for single pitch and general cragging was borderline wankernous on this site…?

 

if we already think you're a wanker what do you have to lose?

 

I think the general rule for this site is write about whatever you want and expect to be ridiculed for no good reason. I like reading cragging TRs, especially funny ones.

[John Frieh]

I rather be considered a wanker than a turd...