Don't take lesson from this guy

[ketch]

So I'm lookin at texasclimbers for some beta an upcoming road trip. Great site those that passed on the link.

Anyway there is a thread goin that I had to check out. They must go to a differant school in Texas, at least the instructor did bad idea

[JackY]

[ashw_justin]

Well that only applies in Texas, cuz Texans are just tougher and can handle impacting the ground at 30 mph.

[thelawgoddess]

yikes!!!

[ScottP]

A friend of mine was trying to fiddle in some pro while climbing wet rock on one of the pitches below the Tower on Serpentine Arete. He sketched and fell from about 15 feet up. Back pedaling down the slab, he hit the snowbank I was standing behind, bounced off the top and disappeared over the side. The rope zipped through my hand as I locked off the ATC I was using. He was't hurt, but I got second degree burns despite stuffing my palm in the snow once he had stopped falling and I was able to switch hands on the brake end.

[natasha_caldwell]

thats pretty bad

[wayne]

A friend of mine was trying to fiddle in some pro while climbing wet rock on one of the pitches below the Tower on Serpentine Arete. He sketched and fell from about 15 feet up. Back pedaling down the slab, he hit the snowbank I was standing behind, bounced off the top and disappeared over the side. The rope zipped through my hand as I locked off the ATC I was using. He was't hurt, but I got second degree burns despite stuffing my palm in the snow once he had stopped falling and I was able to switch hands on the brake end.

 

Scott was that incident back in August of 96?

[Bug]

Dead Texan.

[SublimeSalamander]

What a dork! I hope that guy gets a clew. Anyway what kind of Texas beta were you looking for?

[ketch]

Ya I thought the man was a tad bit confused. I was looking for some beta as to what if anything I could climb. I have a road trip this fall that will have me in Pampa for a few days followed by a few days in

Austin then I have a few days to make my way back to here. I found that there is not much even close to rock in Pampa, but in Austin there's some stuff. I'll let ya'all know if it's worth goin when I get back.

[texplorer]

I'll save you the time ketch, No, its not worth it.

[ketch]

Thanks for the note Tex. I kinda gathered it would be different. I mostly was told to go to Reimers ranch and Enchanted rock. They both look like private climbing parks. One invite was extended to join a group at New Wall/Great Wall. All the beta I found was for sport stuff and short at that (single pitch 50m rope). Maybe I'll look for some good microbrews instead.

[richard_noggin]

I have seen two people that have lost control of the belay with an atc or simalar bucket belay device, both where at the point of taking in slack ,the falls where quick and unsuspected, both resulted in wicked rope burn , one the leader hit the deck from 30 feet and walked away, the belayer got such a wicked rope burn on his hands he wasn't climbing for two weeks , phuk that dynamic belay , I'll take a Gri Gri anyday , and if your belayer dies of a heart attack or knocked out by rockfall you get to live to climb another day.

I have tak'n a lot of falls and never got hurt from not having a dynamic belay (I don't climb with 250 pound anchor belayers) and if my gear is so bad I need a dynamic belay (I get SBD..shrinking ball disease) I will bail and climb something else.

Too much of a dynamic belay and there could be ledge fall potential and the idiots that seem to take up rock climbing I would not count on them to evaluate fall potential .

If your climbing at Little Si on the steep hard with the hardcore take multi whipper experienced sport climbing types , dynamic belays are cool

DICK

[fenderfour]

I saw a dynamic belay at Smith that almost led to a head injury. Another dynamic belay ended in a severely bashed knee for the belayer. Gimme an anchor.

 

Why don't sport climbers on bolted routes use belay anchors? If there isn't an obvious natural anchor, why couldn't they add a couple of bolts at the bottom?

[catbirdseat]

I think more of them should anchor where opportunities exist. You can anchor and still give a dynamic belay if you want. You don't have to stand tight against the anchor. You could have some slack with the anchor as a backup to prevent you from launching or crashing into the rock. It all depends on the circumstances.