Lost Classics?

[assmonkey]

DCramer said: Sadly Index seems to be not very popular lately - well with the exception of a select few routes. This creates a spiral of dirt and more neglect and more dirt and more....

 

Just curious, what would some of the "lost classics" be? Which of the dirty routes are worth cleaning?

 

- a s s m * n k e y

[TimL]

I'm sure DC can name many more, but the following come to mind:

 

Shirley p1 thru Narrow Arrow Direct p2, p3 & p4

 

Jap Gardens P1, P2 through TPMV P3, P4

 

Pressure Drop on the Pressure Drop Cliff which is a *** pitch

 

I have not heard of many people climbing Clay which is a **** pitch

 

There are many pitches on the upper tier of the LTW that looked amazing. I'll think of more later.

[Szyjakowski]

DCramer said: Sadly Index seems to be not very popular lately - well with the exception of a select few routes. This creates a spiral of dirt and more neglect and more dirt and more....

 

Just curious, what would some of the "lost classics" be? Which of the dirty routes are worth cleaning?

 

Likewise,many classic routes in the leavenworth area have been reclaimed by the dirt and vegetation... take a brush if you choose, the nut tool usually does the trick, and go get some action; great fun cleaning dirt outa the eyes and ears sending various cracks of beauty...

[TimL]

I agree. Especially at Midnight Rock!

[ScottP]

Free Cat (***) on Hag Crag was looking pretty green last time I was up there, as was Bravo Jean Marc (**), which, in my opinion is a pretty good pitch.

[DCramer]

There are a whole bunch of “lost classics”

 

Here is a short list:

 

Racer X/Beetle Bailey - I think the first pitch has become overgrown. Racer X is a fun moderate face climb. Beetle Bailey is a bit more difficult and is a combination of crack/face climbing but I am sure it has become dirty and the fps are certainly suspect assuming that they still exist.

 

Pitch 3 Japanese Gardens Now dirty and guarded by killer berry bushes this as a corner with a crack very similar to Sloe Children. (I guess you can add the 4th pitch to this list as well.)

 

Wilman’s Walkabout – The start has become dirty. The first pitch is very short (45’) and .11c. The second pitch which should be combined with the first is a fun corner. (.11a) This corner has difficult and enjoyable crack climbing but very rarely climbed. If .11c is harder than you want it can be approached via the direct start to Sedan Delivery with a pull or two (A0) past its crux. The Direct Start is another lost classic as is the full Sedan Delivery. I think a fp has been stolen from the Direct Start.

 

Dark Crystal – First pitch is dirty.

 

Eraserhead – Now dirty. Fun face climbing.

 

Last year at least Free Cat and End Run looked pretty clean.

[chucK]

Pitch 3 Japanese Gardens Now dirty and guarded by killer berry bushes this as a corner with a crack very similar to Sloe Children. (I guess you can add the 4th pitch to this list as well.)

[...]

 

Last year at least Free Cat and End Run looked pretty clean.

 

 

We went up looking for Claus Von Bulow etc... last year and I think we saw the Jap. Gardens pitch you're talking about. It looked (like it used to be) sweet. Claus Von Bulow... is pretty ugly looking too, with an exposed belay station below with terrible-looking bolts.

 

End Run looked pretty good, Free Cat did appear to get a scrubbing, and Steel Pulse (excellent yet scary) got a nice refurbishment. Go climb that one! Do your part to keep it clean!

[DCramer]

Those Lookout Point routes all should have new bolts.

 

The JG pitch is just left of CVB. There should be a new anchor (I think in a slightly different position)

 

Also, on the slab pitch of 10% the old anchor (three bolts) has been removed and not replaced. I think a single bolt should be installed there but there isnt one now. Reaching the bolt from that ledge might be difficult.

[DCramer]

The Pressure Drop Rock and the Coffee Achievers Cliff both have fun TRs. The TRs can be set up easily with tree anchors. Most of the routes would take a bit of scrubbing before being really clean but only a little to make them possible. They are a fun way to finish off the day after climbing an Upper Wall route.

 

Pressure Drop Routes worth spending time on:

Pressure Drop .11a - Great finger jams! Probably clean enough right now.

Blaim it On Cain .11c - Probably wet this time of year.

Errol Flynn...12 - Technical lieback jamming. Crux section easily cleaned. The top lower angle section will be difficult to clean but you can just lower off.

 

Coffee Achievers Cliff routes -

Universal language .11+ - Boulder sequence at the start; stemming up higher. Easy clean job.

Let's Go Crazy .11c Thin jams and face climbing up unique rock. Stays hard until the top.

 

OK I'll shut up now.

 

DC

[chucK]

Update on some lost Index Classics:

 

Went up there yesterday. Not a great day for oozy climbs.

 

Rattletale is fine, but that climb to the left is getting pretty overgrown. It's a good pitch, needs some attention.

 

Went over to Steel Pulse and got on that. The bottom is really disgusting (slimy mossy, yuck) but once up about 50 feet it's berry nice.

 

Magic Fern is seriously overgrown and nasty for the bottom 30 feet (until the nice crack). This is a pretty fun climb that needs some attention.

 

Free Cat is totally grown over, and End Run is just about completely lost.

 

Even the ever-popular Senior Citizens in Space is looking a bit green!

 

Is global warming promoting Index slime growth?

[catbirdseat]

I'd heard that Lamar's Trust was a good one that almost never gets climbed. Somebody (Mattp?) said it had a tree lodged in it last time he looked at it.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

So chuck, does that give you two more climbing days this year?

[Blake]

How about Julie's Roof, up above Dr. Sniff?

[ScottP]

Is global warming promoting Index slime growth?

Or perhaps the proliferation of bolted routes in the I-90 corridor?

[eric8]

julies should be fine that route is classic

[Crack]

Magic Fern IS a fun climb, and made for us mere mortals too...in fact, Private Idaho has a few climbs that fall into that category including the second pitch of Curious Poses (attainable from P1 of Magic) and Istanbul. It would be great for that crag if the folks that run laps on Battered and Senior Citizens got a taste of the other 5.mellows. (that's 5 quality pitches within feet of each other under 5.10!)

 

It would be too bad if Chasin' the Lizard (.10a) went to the weeds -the fantastic and long pitch to the left of Rattletale that I think chucK is talking about...and speaking of -has anyone done the offwidth which helps to form that 3rd pitch of Rattletale?

 

On the way to the Toxic Shock area is another great 5.mellow which sees very little traffic: Al's Armed Response. Super fun with great gear...you got some mungy fun to get past in the first 30 feet or so, but the sweet cracks which lead you up the sky busting buttress are undeniably deserving.

 

-love finding the Fat Man Pitches at the Skinny Hardman Crags!

 

 

 

Edited May 24, 2007 by Crack

[chucK]

I tried that offwidth on the left side of the Rattletale p3 chimney on toprope, and was shut down quickly! Sheesh. Not even close.

[DCramer]

Index slime is the result of the tress growing taller. Back in the late 70's you could see a lot more rock from town than you can now.

 

As far as Chasin' the Lizard, I think it is much better to traverse left (belay) and then climb a short but really fun 5.9 pitch to the ledge rather than to grovel straight up.

 

The final short slab pitch to the top needs a scrubbing. I took off most (not all) of the berries growing on the second pitch a week or so ago.

 

If you climb Rattletale walk over and rap the route to the left. Clean as needed.

Edited May 24, 2007 by DCramer

[archenemy]

I'd heard that Lamar's Trust was a good one that almost never gets climbed. Somebody (Mattp?) said it had a tree lodged in it last time he looked at it.

If this is true, and the tree is down low enough, I can bring my chainsaw up to it this weekend. Let me know.

[Weekend_Climberz]

I'd heard that Lamar's Trust was a good one that almost never gets climbed. Somebody (Mattp?) said it had a tree lodged in it last time he looked at it.

If this is true, and the tree is down low enough, I can bring my chainsaw up to it this weekend. Let me know.

 

While your at it, there's a few trees around the country that need to be whacked

[Adventureboy]

what about:

Techicians of the Sacred

Sisu

 

Mid wall

cleaned Wild Board and Kieths crack last year

 

also

Abraxus, speaking of that....

has that f&%#$er seen a free attempt. my buddy aided it and said that most of that thing looked pretty freeable.

hard sayin not knowin.

what say you DC?

 

 

[chucK]

Thanks for the blackberry removal on Chasin' The Lizard Daryl! That bush looked pretty imposing a couple of weeks ago.

 

By the way, just for information, an easy way to get down from Rattletale is to rap the chain stations of CtL (easily doable with a single 60m rope).

[bigwallben]

Just an fyi: Jap p1-4 are all completely clean. The last two anchors have been replaced by the human mullet. Regarding technicians...I scrubbed the first crux pitch. It is still completely climbable. Yes, some small shrubery show up on the final .10 section...but if you can get there, I don't think it will stop you.

 

Also, if you are linking Japanese through upper TPVM, it is Clean. Very Very clean. I made a scrub mark you can probably see from the top of Mt. Index. Climbed this linkup for the first time a month ago. It is a great linkup offering interesting 5.11 climbing.

 

Go get em peeps.

[StreetBoss]

I'll get right on it, thanks Waller boi!

 

Now that's community service

 

[catbirdseat]

Magic Fern IS a fun climb, and made for us mere mortals too...in fact, Private Idaho has a few climbs that fall into that category including the second pitch of Curious Poses (attainable from P1 of Magic) and Istanbul. It would be great for that crag if the folks that run laps on Battered and Senior Citizens got a taste of the other 5.mellows. (that's 5 quality pitches within feet of each other under 5.10!)

 

It would be too bad if Chasin' the Lizard (.10a) went to the weeds -the fantastic and long pitch to the left of Rattletale that I think chucK is talking about...and speaking of -has anyone done the offwidth which helps to form that 3rd pitch of Rattletale?

 

On the way to the Toxic Shock area is another great 5.mellow which sees very little traffic: Al's Armed Response. Super fun with great gear...you got some mungy fun to get past in the first 30 feet or so, but the sweet cracks which lead you up the sky busting buttress are undeniably deserving.

 

-love finding the Fat Man Pitches at the Skinny Hardman Crags!

 

 

Rob McDan and I paid a visit to Private Idaho this afternoon. Rob led Senior Citizens ably and then I led Battered Sandwich. I see where it gets it's name. I felt a bit battered after I was done.

 

We moved on to Magic Fern. It's a bit dirty on the first pitch, but that didn't seem to make it harder. I thought that the start was really hard! I had to place a nut and step in a sling to get off the ground. The first pitch went well, but I had problems with the second. I'm just not good at thin hands. Rob seemed to like that part.

 

We were also thinking of Istanbul, but ran out of time. How is that one? How about Wet Dream? Any good?