ashw_justin Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 (edited) Alpinfox: I'm not against free-soloing. Free-solo all you want. I'm against anyone not taking responsibility for splattering their guts all over me and my rope. Do I threaten you? Bring it bitch... The rest of you: I have free-soloed, do, and will in the future. As will I run out climbs above shit gear if I have to or feel like it. But this notion that it doesn't affect anyone else complete bullshit. "If you don't want to pick up the pieces then don't..." You have no idea what you are talking about. Is that the kind of person you are? Would you really just say "Oh well, I hope someone comes and cleans this up sooner or later" and keep climbing like nothing happened? You might say yes just to disagree with me, but I ask you this: how do you know? Have you ever been faced with something like that? It messes you up. Anyway, your surprisingly prematurely-ejaculative hostility is pretty funny, but I guess this is the spray forum, so giz away... Edited April 19, 2004 by ashw_justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 According to John Long he jumped into the tree "with a blood-curdling scream". And Longo NEVER exaggerates Someone recently talked to me when I was soloing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 Yeah but I didn't KNOW you were soloing and I didn't start speculating about how much I could get for your kidneys on the black market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 Fuck you, buddy. You don't know me, so don't presume to know whether I have "been faced with something like that." A free soloist is already taking their life into their hands, which is a far more important thing than your precious fragile emotional well-being. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eerie Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 what AlpinFox said: "Yabo" = John Yablonski. 1970s era Yosemite climber who once fell from the top of "short circuit (12a)" and was saved by getting his shirt caught on a tree which bent down and deposited him gently and safely on the ground. That is one of the coolest stories of a life being gently returned I have ever heard. The first time I went to Classic Crack a person was there doing solo laps on it and didn't think much of it. It is a relatively easy and short crack route. The guidebook even says this is a popular route for soloists. I just don't understand why someone would get worked up over another soloing Classic Crack? Eerie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 That being said, if the climber is on a ridiculously easy route and looks bomber, I wouldn't be too worried. If he was asking me permission in any way I would want to know if he had done the climb before. If he hadn't, I would politely offer to give him a belay, otherwise f*ck off and solo somewhere else. "Ridiculously easy" is relative. If Peter Croft walked up and was so exceedingly polite that he asked if he could solo Karate Crack while you climbed Right Slab Crack with a rope, would you really tell him to fuck off? Well is Karate Crack really free-soloing? It's not THAT high off the ground. But for some other climb, that depends. I would want to know if he had climbed it before, and if he hadn't, I would want to know that he was aware of the grade, and that it was within his abilities. I don't think anyone would try to free solo under different circumstances, but if they were, I would want to know so I could get the bandaids ready... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 Fuck you, buddy. You don't know me, so don't presume to know whether I have "been faced with something like that." You misquote me. It was a question, not a presumption. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 I want to see justin and alpinfox battle it out. Like watching two s brawl. There is irony in justin's stance that nobody here realizes. Hey Justin, fergit about these losers, let's go skiing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 (edited) A free soloist is already taking their life into their hands, which is a far more important thing than your precious fragile emotional well-being. Yes they are risking their life quite freely and that affects me. I am quite aware of the preciousness of the life they are "taking into their hands" and that's why I care whether or not they are doing it responsibly. Edited April 19, 2004 by ashw_justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 There is irony in justin's stance that nobody here realizes. Quiet you that wasn't freesoloing and even if that little prussik broke I just would have broken an ankle or something... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 But I don't want to help you hobble down that gnarly trail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 There is irony in justin's stance that nobody here realizes. That's hilarious, cracked! You almost make me want to take up free-soloing, Justin, just so I can irritate you with my irresponsible antics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 Well is Karate Crack really free-soloing? It's not THAT high off the ground. But for some other climb, that depends. I would want to know if he had climbed it before, and if he hadn't, I would want to know that he was aware of the grade, and that it was within his abilities. I don't think anyone would try to free solo under different circumstances, but if they were, I would want to know so I could get the bandaids ready... You plan to interview/interogate each climber before they leave the ground to make sure they fit YOUR definition of "competent/knowledgable" before YOU ALLOW them to climb? I assume you are trolling here? How about just minding your own business and leaving the free-soloists alone if you happen to see them? If they fall and injure/kill themselves, then that's a tragedy and you would probably feel compelled to help out. However, you are much more likely to see a newbie climber deck due to bad gear/technique or some roped climber rap off the end than see a soloist fall. And, as I said before, intentionally trying to distract a soloist while they are climbing is reckless and hostile and will hopefully get you beaten to a pulp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 Alpinfox: I'm not against free-soloing. Free-solo all you want. I'm against anyone not taking responsibility for splattering their guts all over me and my rope. Do I threaten you? Bring it bitch... The rest of you: I have free-soloed, do, and will in the future. As will I run out climbs above shit gear if I have to or feel like it. But this notion that it doesn't affect anyone else complete bullshit. "If you don't want to pick up the pieces then don't..." You have no idea what you are talking about. Is that the kind of person you are? Would you really just say "Oh well, I hope someone comes and cleans this up sooner or later" and keep climbing like nothing happened? You might say yes just to disagree with me, but I ask you this: how the fuck do you know? Have you ever been faced with something like that? It fucks you up. Anyway, your surprisingly prematurely-ejaculative hostility is pretty funny, but I guess this is the spray forum, so giz away... I have no idea what i'm talking about???? FUCK OFF! Actually, yes, i have been faced with this situation before, both w/ an injury to another and having been on the solo side of it...what's your point??? I TOLD YOU I FELT UNCOMFORTABLE AROUND IT, dumbass!...So I leave...Like i said, just leave before something happens so you won't be around it if you feel you must do something... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 I feel much more anxious watching someone who doesn't know what they're doing bumble up a well-bolted sport route than to watch a good climber solo something that they are obviously comfortable. If I see someone who I don't want to carry out around, I leave, wether they are a soloist or just a gumby with a rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 You're right, there are no climbing police, and there's no way I could be one, or would even want to be. But I would still feel really bad if someone splatted in front of me. Or accross the way. Or in a different state. So much that I might say something if I thought a climber was about to get in over their head. Not that they would knowingly do so if they weren't complete idiots. So I guess I'd only say something if I thought there were compete idiots. Yeah, I guess there have been a couple times when that idiot was me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 hey...i understand where you are coming from...i get totally nauseaus (spelling) watching someone get in over their head...i can't watch it and don't want to be around it... BUT, its still none of my business... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 (edited) I TOLD YOU I FELT UNCOMFORTABLE AROUND IT, dumbass!...So I leave...Like i said, just leave before something happens so you won't be around it if you feel you must do something... I know that's one solution. You know I probably would want to be able to help the guy if he fell though. Anyway I still have a choice to ask the guy if he knows what he's doing. It may piss you all off that I would dare ask a free-soloist about their climbing ability, but I don't see why it is so wrong to ask, considering I shouldn't have to leave, especially if myself or my partner aren't done with the climb we're on. I mean if they have the balls to freesolo then it shouldn't bother them to much to say yes, I know the rating and I have climbed/can climb it. So another question, what are you comfortable freesoloing onsight relative to your ability? Say you can climb 5.11, where do you draw the line when jumping onto a climb? Or do you even freesolo anything that you haven't already climbed lead or toprope? I've "freesoloed" (probably more like highball, 40-50 feet with a mild landing) some stuff a couple grades lower than my ability but only because the footholds were no-brainers. I'd say the only things I've climbed unroped, I knew I could downclimb if necessary. I tend to get a little sketchier when I have the false security of a rope while rope-soloing on lead. Edited April 19, 2004 by ashw_justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 i don't solo at all anymore...i haven't for a very very long time. I stopped after breaking a hold and falling on a route on lead that i had solo'd the week before... When i was soloing i was one number grade under my consistent onsight level. I would solo stuff onsight, but i was young and very very stupid... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 I stopped after breaking a hold and falling on a route on lead that i had solo'd the week before... Holy shit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 So this weekend I was at 8 mile rock doing some TR'ing with some semi-climber friends and a guy asks if he can jump on Classic (we had it roped). I said sure, assuming he would put on a harness and ask for a belay, and he started free-soloing it. He obviously had the necessary skills and made it up without so much as a slip. I was not too pleased about his decision to climb unroped. I understand that he was taking his own risks, but who would have helped him if he fell? I just thought that it was a bit inconsiderate of him to put that on us. As I said before, he had the necessary skills, but everyone fucks up sometime. Some may say that I should have asked him not to climb unroped, or to ask him to leave, but it's not my rock. Everyone is entitled to equal usage. What do you think? Do you mind if a single climber does some free soloing nearby? I can see how you would be alarmed if some guy just jumps on your route without a rope. His nickname is "The Gaper" and I'd be willing to guess that he does it a few times a week and has been for 15 years or longer. Now is it still alarming? I know folks who do the same thing at Marrymoore and Uw rocks. Oh yeah, I'm bringing those slides to you this weekend Mr Gaper. I'll be looking to climb something if you are available. You should post something about this topic!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott_J Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 Ashhole_justin, Free-soloing is the ultimate form of climbing. Period. If you don't want to do it, fine, but you will never know the depth of focus and transcendent level of awareness that comes from relying on your mind and body to briefly overcome gravity. "It's like having sex with death". dumbass said: I'll just wait until they are several feet off the ground, then begin a conversation-- are they an organ donor, do they have any bloodborne pathogens I should be aware of, which dismembered body part do they want me to try to find first, can I have their stuff when they die, etc. etc. Because really, isn't my relentless banter just an aspect of my climbing style and the way I like to climb? My choice, right? Not affecting anyone... As for your threats against free-soloists; you are an immature fuck and if you ever do that shit to me I'll climb back down and wallop you with a big hex. You suck, "go gargle butt-gravy asseyes". Hey FF, "Yabo" = John Yablonski. 1970s era Yosemite climber who once fell from the top of "short circuit (12a)" and was saved by getting his shirt caught on a tree which bent down and deposited him gently and safely on the ground. He is also the person who, late one night while tripping "saw" midnight lightning (famous boulder problem in Camp 4) and woke up John Bachar and someone else and made them send it for him. Yabo’s Narrow Escape John Yablonski’s narrow escapes from certain annihilation have become the stuff of legends, but one hair-raising story that remains untold is about that cold January afternoon he made an impulsive decision to hitch hike up to Castle to spend the winter living in the cave the now bears his name. Standing with his thumb out at the bottom of the hill in Saratoga, clutching a modest bedroll, a 15-year-old Yabo watched apprehensively as an old white Chevy with a black tinted windshield pulled over. When the back door swung open, John jumped in only to discover – much to his dismay - that his fellow travelers were five evil-looking low riders from East San Jose with glazed eyes and sheepish grins. Before he could reconsider his poor choice of rides, the old Chevy roared off and began racing up US 9 at breakneck speeds, passing cars around blind turns on the inside, swerving back and forth across the center line, playing chicken with oncoming traffic. All the while his fellow travelers (except for the out-of-control driver) sat frozen motionless staring straight ahead as if hypnotized. Then, as if on cue, when the car turned left onto Skyline Boulevard at Saratoga Gap, his newfound friends suddenly roused from their collective torpor, opened up switchblades and began carving elegant arabesques in the air. Realizing that these few terrifying moments might very well be his last, Yabo opened the car door at forty mph and jumped head-first into eternity out over the stone guard wall toward the Pacific sunset. A few nano-seconds later, landing on his feet as usual, John picked up his bedroll and dusted himself off, none the worse for the cart wheeling cannonball fall he had just taken 50 feet straight down the steep rock strewn embankment below Skyline Boulevard. Was this the first instance of the infamous Yabo half-twist dismount? If you look closely, the smoke from the smoldering little campfire he built that soggy evening still blackens the roof at the back of the Yabo cave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDoolittle Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 "I was driving to the crag once, and I was obeying the speed limit, and there were all these other cars on the road, and they were driving really fast, and I got pissed at them, because if they had gotten into a car accident, I would have had to do something to help." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 Great story, Sisu! Hahahaha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 Circa 1986; Castle Rock. I was spending the day as an impressionable young climber at Castle Rock. As we were hanging out at the base of Jello Tower, Peter Croft was soloing up and down the west face. My party started up Midway and on the second pitch found a fixed friend. I was DETERMINED after the climb to rap down and score the piece. As we finished the route and I rapped down, Peter Croft was just soloing UP to it. Said it was some friends of his so I let him work it for 15 minutes, pulling, tugging, jiggling...finally he gave up and I got on it doing the same, albeit roped up. I eventually got it out and out of respect I returned it to the folks at the base. I know, Boooring but it made an impression on me at the time. He was wearing a ripped pink T-shirt and Polypro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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