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bobbyperu

gettin some...

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i was just thinking how nice it is scoring booty! smileysex5.gif and i had a crazy coincedence with finding BD cams whilst soloing... last summer on the s.arete of s.early winter spire, i was cruzin up and noticed a little blu webbing stickin out, closer inspection revealed a .3 camelot in beautiful condition, deep in the fissur somewhat overcammed, without any tools, but a little patience the peice was freed, score!

 

the next was while hanging in the wine spires with mr_ natural, we had just finished climbing the w.ridge of paisano, we were descending down burg, and decided to cruze up this little spire, and up on top a .75 camelot with a wire gate, just sitting in this crack...i'll take it...

 

next was recently in the icicle, we were climbing at mountie dome, natty and our friend were roping up, and i headed up the wonderful cracks just psyched to be rompin around and out of the corner of my eye, a little sparkle of light grabbed my attention, i cruzed over to this other system, and low and behold a dmm wire-lock, hung off a green sling, yelrotflmao.gif no way!, so this cams like brand new. i can only imagine the scenario leading up to this cams current local, did they just unclip the rope, and forget to clean... confused.gif whatever thats a bummer...well we all gotta leave stuff sometime, and we all hopefully can score too.. thumbs_up.gif-bp

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Sounds like you are "a finder."

I am also a finder.

My secret? pick up garbage...lots of it.

Remember that #1 friend you lost,.. where is that little wire? or that #4 that your girlfriend got stuck?

 

You will be happy to know that they live in a safe home.

I have bootied dozens of cams,wires, carabiners and slings.

I am sure many of you have as well.

 

Booty is separated into 3 catagories:

 

1. Stuck (Abandoned). the best kind, esp. when freshly abandoned.

-Don't bother with mank bootie, leave it or throw it away.

Bonus points for ugly slings. Pink?... what were they thinking?

 

2. Lost. second best. habitat? rocky and bushy areas.

Wires are the primary ground score, as their modest profile hides them wherever they fall.

digging in the bushes is not as cool as plucking from the vine...but whatever.

 

3.Dropped. The worst...

survey the scene, one pitch or more? where did it fall? dirt or rocks? use your better judgement.

 

What is your personal best bootie score?

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#4 Camalot with a known history... took about 10 minutes of fiddling to SCORE!

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i wish i was a finder. my dad certainly is. he found this huge gold nugget lying in the street once.

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Ahoy Booty laugh.gif

This weekend on the chief, huge booty, several pieces, bunch of biners, 2 lockers, all on an easy section of an easy route. A mystery indeed. As a thank you to the universe for such bounty, we carried down about a dozen empty water bottles found near the summit.

 

Next time I have to leave a piece I’m going to write a little note, put it in ziplock and attach it to the piece. “Dear booty collector: this route is much harder than we thought, it is dark now and starting to rain we are backing off on this lone piece. It has never been dropped or abused, please enjoy it free from doubt. Yours, cold and hungry climbers."

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someone left a nice locker on the chains on a route at e38 that my partner bootied last year. it may not be the most expensive piece ever found but it sure was the easiest to clean!

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Here's one........-15 Feathered Friends Widgeon with dryloft shell at garage sale............$35

(oh yea it had a hole about the size of a dime in it)

fruit.gif

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whole rack of slung hexes, slung stoppers and scottish style crampons: $5 at garage sale.

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I pulled off about a half set of nuts, a cam, a pin, and a couple of draws off the leaning tower. Bootie on almost every pitch! We could have had more but we where trying to do it in a day so anything that didn't come out fairly quickly was left behind. Is it just me or is the majority of booty amlost brand new? My theory is that it's newbies that have developed the cleaning skills or backing off routes over their heads.

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My partner unknowingly cleaned a nut that had lived in the crux pitch of Outer Space for at least three years.

Turns out, the little guy was just fine and we went on to many more adventures.

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I've scored quite a bit of booty over the years, but none as weird as last time. I was at Castle Rock and someone deliberately put a #2 Camalot and a quickdraw in my backpack. I didn't see them do it and I didn't notice until the next day. I usually keep the booty I find but it didn't seem sporting this time so I posted. It will be home soon.

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moon.gif rocks!!!!, my most satisfying score, climbing related that is, occured not on the soloin' adventures i referred to in the beggining of this thread, but rather while doing the second ascent of gato negro on silver star, on the crux pitch right in the buisness, there was a little wire that appeared fixed, but i knew the fa had no falls, sooo while i found a little rest i finagled the peice out, and replaced it a little bit higher, in a perfect spot, clipped it and finished the pitch, my second came up and cleaned, and it was cool, scored a new wire that belonged to a hero of mine! i could totally see how someone could leave a difficult peice in situ, rather than hafta hang and somewhat tarnish the style of ascent by freeing it. i have the upmost respect for the guys that established this route! great style, and a truly awesome alpine rock climb! go do this! i can't spray enough thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifbigdrink.gif-k

 

ps if anyone wants to do this i'd be down to climb it again... also i wanna do an enchain of somethin on the east side: ie rebel yell, clean break, and this route someday...whos down? fruit.gif

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What's the details on 'Gato Negro', I'm not familiar wit it.

I did 'Rebel Yell' last summer and it was awesome. We did it in a day but it would be sweet to camp out up there and spend a few days ticking off routes and tipping back bigdrink.gif.

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north,

 

the deal with Gato Negro is its "overhyped" like Layton says rolleyes.gif,...but if youre looking for 10 pitches of alpine granite in an amazing setting with classic pitches thru-out. then this routes got it!

 

the crux pitch is way classic, and the rock quality is good. the approach if doing the route in a day, can seem long, but not carrying bivi gear, and putting your head down will see you to the base faster than you think.

 

the climb itself has like 4 .10 pitches (the crux is .10+) and a bunch of classic hand cracks. all natural. and the final crack thru the summit needle is way exposed!

 

the descent is full-on, but just be heads up... evils3d.gif there are 2 short abbs of the summit to the gully then at least one other set of anchors as of the our second ascent , or theres always just downclimbing... hahaha.gif

 

this route delivers a pretty real deal alpine feel for this area, and is as good as anything else around! IMO thumbs_up.gif

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I find booty and then I leave some somewhere else. Considering that we all do about the same, how much gear ya quess is out there in the rotating pool of booty?

 

Any ideas?

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I find booty and then I leave some somewhere else. Considering that we all do about the same, how much gear ya quess is out there in the rotating pool of booty?

 

Any ideas?

 

I wrote out my bootie theory once here it is...

 

**My bootie theory is based on equilibrium, every climber loses gear, every climber finds gear. Dirt bags we be less likely to leave or lose gear as it is more valuable to them yuppie arcterx soft shell wearing capicino drinking suburau driving climbers are more likely to leave gear. The amount of gear you leave is directly related to where wear you fall on this spectrum. I believe I fall right in the middle which means for every piece of gear I find I lose a peice of equal value. For Example here have been my bootie transctions for the last year in order. Found nut on Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Bombers, found sling and hex on Godizilla but let Paul take them, lost a double length spectra sling at index lesson should have taken either the hex or sling from Paul, left biner rapping off a climb in Lilloet, VERY NEXT weekend find biner rapping off a route in lilloet, drop the nut I found earlier at Index off OuterSpace, very next weekend find atc. Lesson if you happen to find a perfectly mint # 3 camalot and think I'm a dirt bag start watching your cams like you watched girls in gym class.

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You may increase your odds by picking up garbage.

The more you don't want to pick it up, the more it needs to be picked up.

 

Do the right thing, it matters.

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