routes for a rookie leader in l'worth

[minx]

my partner is just getting into leading with gear. any recommendations for good routes at l'worth for a new leader?

[bobbyperu]

mounty butt is good...the books are loaded as well with lots of info on routes, pick something under 30m so you can tr stuff as well...hope this helps

[minx]

thanks but the books are filled with so much stuff i'm not sure what to start him with. i was wondering if people had specific experience. he's a strong climber so i'm not too worried about him just want to set up a positive situation.

[jkrueger]

Givler's was relatively easy for the grade (especially the 2nd pitch) and takes gear well. It's worth doing at least once if you haven't done so already.

[Elevation]

Depends on whether your partner is a decent climber already, I think -- some of these might not be great for someone who's building crack technique, leading skills AND gear skills:

 

Hand crack at Bruce's Boulder

 

2nd pitch of Regular Route at Careno Crag (beautiful 5.7 dihedral, sucks up stoppers)

 

I recall a pretty nice, easy 6/7 at the wall with The Cowboy Boot -- Domestic Dome?

 

A bunch of short (20 feet?) cracks on the right side of alphabet rock.

 

Any of the R&D pitches.

 

Maybe take a look at Sam Hill -- I think there were some nice easy pitches there. Good luck!

 

m

[Winter]

xy

 

Pearly Gates has some 8's which are great fun.

 

2nd R&D and Givlers' although the first few moves on Givlers' may give a new leader some fits. We came off the route and saw a woman take 30+ minutes to make the first two moves with three parties waiting in line.

[matt_warfield]

Look at the 2 crack routes on the upper buttress at Mountie's Dome and Gibson's Crack around to the right. Also the 5.6ish crack at Barney's Rubble and the short cracks at Roto Wall. Save Givler's and other multipitch outings for a more seasoned leader. The first leads need to be short and way under the climber's standard.

[sobo]

I don't agree with matt warfield, at least as far as R&D goes. It's a great route for a newbie leader who is already defined as a "strong climber", and the leader would never really be out of contact with minx, and it's easy for the grade. It sucks up pro of all kinds (nuts, hexes, SLCDs, etc.) and the exposure on the upper pitch after the chimney is great for a new leader.

 

Bottom line: Send him up R&D. He'll love it.

[minx]

R&D sounds like a good choice to me. i probably should've mentioned that he's led plenty of sport routes and climbs much harder than the 5.6/5.7 stuff i'm looking to start him on.

[Winter]

Aw shit, then send him up Bo Derek ... or Cocaine Crack.

[minx]

Aw shit, then send him up Bo Derek ... or Cocaine Crack.

 

 

hey come on now, that's just not nice. i don't want to break my belay slave. sheesh!

[Dru]

martian diagonal at peshastin

roto wall

saber

midway

mountie doom and gibson's crack

connie's crack, domestic dome

x-y cracks

 

really though if the guy can lead harder than that you just follow the alex huber progression. first lead 5.8. second lead 5.11a. third lead on sighting Equinox (12d)

[matt_warfield]

I don't agree with matt warfield, at least as far as R&D goes. It's a great route for a newbie leader who is already defined as a "strong climber", and the leader would never really be out of contact with minx, and it's easy for the grade. It sucks up pro of all kinds (nuts, hexes, SLCDs, etc.) and the exposure on the upper pitch after the chimney is great for a new leader.

 

Bottom line: Send him up R&D. He'll love it.

 

I was thinking more about Givler's as being a multipitch and a bit much, but R&D sounds great. You just want to be able to concentrate on gear organization and placement with relatively easy climbing.

[sobo]

I don't agree with matt warfield, at least as far as R&D goes. It's a great route for a newbie leader who is already defined as a "strong climber", and the leader would never really be out of contact with minx, and it's easy for the grade. It sucks up pro of all kinds (nuts, hexes, SLCDs, etc.) and the exposure on the upper pitch after the chimney is great for a new leader.

 

Bottom line: Send him up R&D. He'll love it.

 

I was thinking more about Givler's as being a multipitch and a bit much, but R&D sounds great. You just want to be able to concentrate on gear organization and placement with relatively easy climbing.

 

Agreed on that, matt, absolutely! There is no sense futzing around with crazy gear placements on a lead that's at the top of one's leading ability for one's first lead (unlike like what my climbing mentor did to me on my first lead ).

[ken4ord]

Midway and Saber would be excellent beginner climbs and if your partner does really well, send them up some other that are on the upper wall. Hopefully your new rookie is making enough money to support your climbing habit

[sobo]

minx,

Dru mentioned a route at Peshastin Pinnacles. You might also want to consider Lightning Crack over on Grand Central Tower. Skip the bulgy thrashing (5.9) of the first pitch by sending him up the 5.8 bolt ladder on West Face Direct, then traverse far left to the bottom of the 2nd pitch of LC, and lead LC from there to the top. It's about 5.7, great exposure, and good gear placements all the way up. Rap off the back of GCT.

 

If he enjoys that, and looks solid, move over to Sickle Slab and get him on Windward Direct (5.8). The crack flares a bit, but the footwork is good. The flaring cracks may spook him with nut/hex placements, but he'd have to be the judge of that. It takes SLCDs better than nuts and hexes. Enjoy!

[assmonkey]

Nobody mentioned the Clamshell area. There are several easy 5.6 and 5.7 routes on the formation that could keep you busy for the afteroon. Plus, a couple bolted sport routes in the 10 range between the cracks.

 

Tends to get crowded on weekends though.

[whirlwind]

screw all that B.S

if hes an experianced climber, and ok with multipitch, take his ass up outer space the top 3 pitches are stellar straigh forward cracks awsome gear and plenty of good rests

[whirlwind]

also castle rock makes a good day if u don't want to hike back to SC:

midway, canary, angel is doable (hard but short route)

saber,

oh btw beware of the 5.8 on the far right of alfebet rock, its a flaring crack and i personaly didn't like it too much

meat grinder is an easy 10 a with only one move of 10a and the rest is 5.9 also on alfebet, gilivers is good and close to alfebet. bo derick is kinda hard but its on the way down from gilivers

[catbirdseat]

minx,

Dru mentioned a route at Peshastin Pinnacles. You might also want to consider Lightning Crack over on Grand Central Tower. Skip the bulgy thrashing (5.9) of the first pitch by sending him up the 5.8 bolt ladder on West Face Direct, then traverse far left to the bottom of the 2nd pitch of LC, and lead LC from there to the top. It's about 5.7, great exposure, and good gear placements all the way up. Rap off the back of GCT.

 

If he enjoys that, and looks solid, move over to Sickle Slab and get him on Windward Direct (5.8). The crack flares a bit, but the footwork is good. The flaring cracks may spook him with nut/hex placements, but he'd have to be the judge of that. It takes SLCDs better than nuts and hexes. Enjoy!

Windward Direct is a very fine route. Good recommendation.

[JoshK]

2nd for midway and saber. They'll also give him respect for what a 5.5 or 5.6 can be.

 

also...icicle butthole: R&D, spaghetti saucse, the arch. all fun and take good gear.

[Greg_W]

Regarding R&D and Givler's, these require gear belays. A concern to address is his ability to construct a good anchor when reaching his belay. This would be my only concern with him climbing these routes; I know he's strong enough to pull the moves.

[Alex]

3rd for R&D and Sabre. I would suggest you lead these routes first, explain the anchor systems you set up to your partner, and then walk off, around, and have him lead. He will remember the placements and anchors from cleaning, and get it mostly correct.

 

Alex