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Gamesmanship in Climbing


catbirdseat

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Gamesmanship is the use in a sport or game of aggressive, often dubious tactics, such as psychological intimidation or disruption of concentration, to gain an advantage over one's opponent. Now, ordinarily, one would not consider ones climbing partner to be an opponent, but sometimes you just get a partner who's starts flipping you shit, or maybe you just get in an ornery mood yourself. Your partner is starting to rack up for the first lead and you come out with, "yep, she sure looks kind of wet today, be sure to watch out for the sandy spots". Or, you might say, "this is the very pitch where old Harry bought the farm. Pulled three cams on the way down. Cratered right where you are standing".

 

Got any stories?

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I had a couple of climbing partners a while back that liked to say things like "Off Belay" or "Comp loop? Ok, here ya go" when you asked for them to watch you closely for a fall..... ahh those mental games. I also have had a climbing partner who would get freaked if I told him a route was "killer" after I got done climbing it and he was about to second. Of course I meant "killer" to mean it was an exhilirating route. He knew it and it still freaked him out. As for gamesmanship, I always hate the way my brother went about it. He'd look at a route not knowing anything about it, say it looked cool, then tell me I've gotta lead it..grrrrrrrr

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We got so nonchalant at Smith one summer that we would say "oh, did you want a belay for that?" 3-4 bolts up.

 

talked about the best way to psych out people recent with Brian Burdo, and he said the best way was just to repeat the leaders name as they were tackling the crux..."Brian! Brian! Brian!...."

 

Gamesmanship, a CLASSIC at Pok-O-Moonshine, by the way!

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I'm not sure that lying about gear qualifies. It sounds particularly dirty. You can play with a guy's head without having to lie.

 

One of the standard techniques in mountaineering is getting ahead in brushy terrain where your partner can't see you and then stop to take a break. After 2 minutes he comes huffing up and says, "how long have you been waiting?". And you say, "it's been at least 15 minutes, and I am getting cold, let's go!".

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Alright - the best, true story I have is of a friend (fellow occasional poster here) and my buddy Jesse going up to do Liberty Crack, essentially as their 1st climb together (other than a day at 32). They are a few pitches up, and as Jesse starts to lead out on the free cracks above the roof, my friend looks up and says, "Hey, you ever notice on the big 'biners if you turn this collar, the gate doesn't open?" Took him totally by surprise.

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