Help me spend my REI dividend.

[RichTurley]

I do alpine stuff but would like to gear up so that I could do some of these climbs that I have heard about that have 1 or 2 short rock pitches which may be 4th or low-5th class. What components would make up a small rack that would handle most of these situations?

 

Rich

[foraker]

You don't say what you *don't* have.

One option is to get one of their package deals for cams.

That way you get several cams at 20% off rather than 20% off

of one if you bought them individually. After that, don't

go there anymore. I've been a long time REI member and I find I can always find stuff cheaper elsewhere.

[Rodchester]

I do alpine stuff but would like to gear up so that I could do some of these climbs that I have heard about that have 1 or 2 short rock pitches which may be 4th or low-5th class. What components would make up a small rack that would handle most of these situations?

 

Rich

 

Of course, gear/protection needs will vary with each route. That said, here is a rough OUTLINE for a basic alpine rack:

 

ONE SET OF NUTS: There are many brands out there. I know some hear will disagree with me, but FOR THE MOST PART, nuts are nuts.

 

On most climbs that you are looking at, a set of standard nuts should do you fine. I think if you buy them as a set you’ll get 20% off if you use you dividend before April 1, 2004. . . I think. The smaller sizes are mostly aid pieces, so don't worry about picking them up.

 

HEXES: I have and will carry (when a large piece is needed) the large sized Hexes. I have the four largest BDs. The two largest are lightweight and work great when you need one or two large pieces to protect a move or two, but you don’t want to carry (or pay for large cams).

 

CAMS: Throw in about four mid-sized cams and maybe two smaller cams, and you’re set on protection. (For the most part).

 

DRAWS: About six 24 inch runners (get the Mammut Dyneema slings, they are strong and light ) and two biners per sling to make six good alpine draws. Pick up the Trango lightweight wire gate biners at Second Ascent, or some other lightweight biner (Omego JC Wiregate, BD Neutrino). Then get two long, 48 inch, runners, an handful of extra biners, and a few decent lockers.

 

ROPES: I like the smaller diameter single ropes, like a 9.8 mm x 60 meter dry rope. If you need a rope, using your dividend and the 20 % discount may be the way to go.

 

Of course, gear/protection needs will vary with each route and your ability/comfort level. On some routes you may just carry the nuts and a couple of draws, on some you’ll carry everything. Many here will say that this a big rack for what you’re doing. But if you are just learning to lead, having the gear to “stitch up” tricky sections with a lot of protection is good.

 

Also, throw in some "leaver" 1 inch webbing and a couple of rap rings.

[scot'teryx]

Sans Rope

[RichTurley]

Thanks for the info. I've got all the glacier equip, but zero rock. As for cheaper places than REI, I am aware, but don't want to wait till July to get cash. I normally use an 8mm rope in the alpine environment, but am concerned that I may need to move to a bigger (heavier) rope.

 

Rich

[Dustin_B]

I do alpine stuff but would like to gear up so that I could do some of these climbs that I have heard about that have 1 or 2 short rock pitches which may be 4th or low-5th class. What components would make up a small rack that would handle most of these situations?

 

Rich

 

If you need help spending your dividend, PM me and I'll give you my address which you can send your dividend too.

 

Another option is to buy the big ticket items at REI (cams, rope) so you can maximize your coupon. Buy the smaller items (biners, nuts, etc.) online somewhere.

 

Personally, I like the first option though, it involves less work on your part.

[John Frieh]

Are you comfortable soloing 4th class/low 5th class? You might want to consider looking into that: it will only keep you safer in the mtns. Just a thought.

[kurthicks]

One option is to get one of their package deals for cams.That way you get several cams at 20% off rather than 20% off of one if you bought them individually.

 

from what their website says, the 20% off doesn't apply to package deals, among other things. It does start to make things like plastics, #5 camalots, tents, ropes and stuff look reasonably priced however.

[chucK]

You can double up the 8mm rope and do short pitches. This will work fine if you really are talking about just a pitch or two.

 

If counting on short pitches you don't need as much gear also.

 

1 set of nuts.

 

Did anybody say tri-cams? You can substitute some small tri-cams (.5, 1) for the larger stoppers if you really want to be minimal. I'd only buy a couple of hexes. Maybe a 7 and a 9.

 

Two cams'll probably get you by: BD Camalots .75 and .5. If you got more money get a yellow CCH Alien and a #1 Camalot.

 

Rodchester's draws specs sound good. Make sure you got enough biners for 6 draws and for racking (one per cam, couple for nuts, one for hexes). I'd also get at least one 9' length of tubular nylon to make a long runner (that you can use for bailing).

 

One thing though, I doubt you'll be able to find any of this specialized climbing equipment at any REI store. But you might be able to mailorder .