Ruth Gorge, Mt. Barrill

[alaska73]

I'm planning a trip to the Ruth this spring and I'm looking at the Japanese Couloir on Mt. Barrill. Can anyone offer some info on it? It looks like from pictures and the AAJ descriptions that there are two variations. Left looks easier, right looks harder. Has anyone out there been on the route? Thanks!

[DPS]

I did Japenese Couloir on Barille last year in early May. I don't remember any variations. You climb up an obvious gulley to a small col, traverse below a rock band, and then up another gulley to the summit snow slopes. It took less than five ours from our camp on the glacier to the summit. We reversed the ascent route using rappels and down climbing. We roped up and belayed two pitches.

[lost_arrow]

straightforward route - you can descend the route as described above or walk down the standard route on the other side. there are two variations - a left and right exit at the top. the right can be technically a bit more challenging - but the left can have a steeper cornice built up some years - six and one half dozen. if you are headed to the ruth - the japanese couliour is a nice jaunt - but dont count on many other routes like it or in its grade there.

 

it is a fun 'romp' up a peak there - it gives a great vantage for looking at approach routes for the tooth

[DPS]

lost arrow, do you mean two exits to the main couloir? If so, I recall that now, but the variation is quite minor. I should add that the main couloir has fixed anchors for double rope raps. I don't think any section was steeper than 65 degrees, with the possible exception of the traverse pitch.

 

I agree with lost arrow that the Japenese Couloir is one of a few truly easy routes in the Ruth. The West Face of Mt Dickey is another one, and although I have not climbed it, I have heard Mt Dan Beard has a very moderate route on it. I don't think Japenese Couloir is worth a trip in and of itself, but include a few other climbs and you could spend a nice couple of weeks, especially if you bring skis and do some skiing.

[alaska73]

Hey thanks guys. I really appreciate the info. This is a great website. I have another question about the couloir. In the 1986 AAJ account of the second ascent, they say that the couloir splits about 1000 feet above the glacier and the Japanese took the right fork. I've seen pictures of the climb and it looks like these are two major variations. It looked like the right way was substantially harder and the left way looked very easy until its top, where it also splits into two minor variations. Any thoughts?

[Jedi]

Yeah, the West Face of Dickie is a hike that you can do in 4 ot 5 hours tent to tent. Easy ground with nice views. Sounds like the Jap Couloir is harder. The standard route on Barrille is just a 2 hour round trip hike from tent to tent.

 

I tell yeah, Mt Wake has had my eye. She's a beaut!

Jedi

[chris]

When Dan and I climbed the JC last year, I don't remember seeing any right hand variation 1000' up. If it was there, it would have required a desperate mixed pitch to reach it.

[alaska73]

Yeah, looking at pictures, I'm not so sure that the '85 second ascent team really took a different variation than the Japanese.

 

So how is the climbing on Dan Beard? From what I've researched, there's a route that goes up the a couloir on the south ridge? (the left hand ridge looking at it from the Mountain House) then up the south face to the top. Is this the best line? Has anyone done this or any other route? Looks like a very cool peak.

Thanks!

[Duchess]

hello...last april myself and three others spent three weeks in the gorge. in addition to climbing barille, dickey, and the mooses tooth, three of us attempted the ridge on mt. dan beard that you speak up. you are correct, it is an absolutely beautiful mountain and highly under-rated, from what i understand.

 

we camped in the obvious, large cirque (bowl) beneith the couloir. watch the bergschrund crossing, i took a small spill into it in the dark... the couloir was fine climbing, followed by the long and very steep traverse to the top of the ridge. above, we found excellant climbing along the very corniced ridge and short bands of rock. we turned back an estimated 500' shy of the summit due to extremely soft snow on the steep slopes. the downclimb was a bit of a bitch, we ended up rappelling several rope lengths on the main couloir.

 

an aquaintance who is very familiar with the gorge told us that mt. dan beard rarely gets climbed, probably due to its proximity to the more notorious peaks in the area. i felt that it was one of the best days of climbing we had on the trip (and one of the better days that i have ever experienced). i intend to go back soon...

 

cheers.

[alaska73]

Wow, thanks for the great beta. What kind of climbing did it look like above where you turned around? Was it mixed or rock? From pictures it looks like linking snow couloirs and short rock steps, or does it stay more on a ridge crest? How much rock pro did you need/take?

I appreciate all the help!

[Duchess]

You are right, the route follows snow couloirs and rock steps instead of staying on a ridge crest. To the best of my memory, we had a very limited rock rack with us. We brought a number of pickets and screws, and a small variety of cams and nuts. There was one point where we did set up a belay using rock pro. Most of the rock steps were short and easy, although there was one short stabby section (5.7?) I would recommend sending a PM to "W" if you need a little more info... he might have some more for you. Cheers!

[alaska73]

Great! I'm totally psyched. Thanks again for the good info.

I might end up on the Kahiltna as well and am looking for similar type climbs. I've heard that there is a moderate couloir that climbs up the left side of the Mini-Moonflower buttress. Has anyone done this? Is it a worthy objective? What else in the area (not on the big peaks) is kind of a moderate classic?

[glassgowkiss]

i did the right hand line few years back. most of this was moderate, but there was a pitch or two quite full on. my friends had a little epic a year later. raping this thing in a storm was not that easy.

[specialed]

Great! I'm totally psyched. Thanks again for the good info.

I might end up on the Kahiltna as well and am looking for similar type climbs. I've heard that there is a moderate couloir that climbs up the left side of the Mini-Moonflower buttress. Has anyone done this? Is it a worthy objective? What else in the area (not on the big peaks) is kind of a moderate classic?

 

Done it. Killer 8-9 pitch. AI 4+ / 5. Fun day climb from Kahiltna.

[alaska73]

Thanks guys. Glassgowkiss, what's the difference between the left line and the right? I don't have a picture of it. Can someone post one? Anything else you can tell me about the route?

I don't imagine that raping it in a storm would be that easy.

[specialed]

[max]

From Planetfear.com:

 

"Top American alpinist and Alaskan guru Steve House rated this season the best ever in Alaska. He together with Rolando Garibotti repeated the other classic testpiece The Infinite Spur on mount Foreker in 25 hours (previous fastest time 7 days)."

 

This puts some perspective on the MtRainier speed skuffly.

[glassgowkiss]

this is like 2 seasons old. where have u been? plus it has nothing to do with mini-moonflower, so move it to spray buddy.

[wfinley]

Hi - I'm intersted in a little more beta about the mini-moonflower couloir. When did you do it (time of year) - gear, route beta etc. and anything else you think we should know!

 

Thanks!

 

Billy Finley

[AKdreamN]

While in the Gorge did you get a view of the Elevator Shaft on Johnson? Get any beta on Church?

[GAmedic]

we are planning a trip to the Ruth leaving next week, can anyone tell me about the snow conditions on the gorge, on Barille and on Dickey? Does anyone have any info on the routes up the west faces of Barille and Dickey? How steep, how long, conditions etc.....Thanks in advance.

 

Gamedic

[Jedi]

Braille will be a short hike up. I think we were up in 2 hours. Or was it up and down in 2 hours? I forget. Go up early in the morning and conditions could be nice.

 

We went up Dickie from the Amp to Pittcock Pass. Colby's book does not recommend this due to objective danger. We hiked up in 4 hrs. A couple places had crust & sugar thigh deep in a few places & I went chest deep in one hidden crevasse.

I would call your flight service and ask them about recent conditions since they are up there on a daily basis.

 

We were fine with one axe each but what ever you think you might be comfortable with.

We were there in early June but it was not freezing at night. Everyone was leaving due to conditions.

 

Rock climbing is probably pretty good in the Ruth by now if it is as warm in there as it was 4 weeks ago.

 

Have fun