gabo Posted March 9, 2004 Posted March 9, 2004 I've been looking for the last couple days and haven't found anything outside of Smoot's book. Is there any other source with more routes to climb available locally or online? Quote
Jim Posted March 9, 2004 Posted March 9, 2004 I have that nice blue covered guide book that came out, what, 10 years ago? Can't remember the author - maybe it's out of print now. Quote
goatboy Posted March 9, 2004 Posted March 9, 2004 Hyperspud sports in Yakima (and in Moscow, ID) probably has the most current dirtbag guidebook with photocopied pages. Â Give em a call or go to hyperspud.com Quote
AaronB Posted March 9, 2004 Posted March 9, 2004 I'd just get beta from ppl at the climbers ranch. It'd be more up to date on snow & ice conditions. I've seen snow on the glacier rt. all through the year, then I've seen it pollished in June. Same goes with the NW Couloir. The rangers at Jenny Lake can sometimes give you good condition reports as well. Quote
To_The_Top Posted March 9, 2004 Posted March 9, 2004 Tieton is in Eastern Washington, although your right for beta for the TETONS Quote
catbirdseat Posted March 9, 2004 Posted March 9, 2004 A buddy of mine tells me that JY is working on a new guide, but at present it consists of a binder he keeps in his RV. Quote
cman Posted March 9, 2004 Posted March 9, 2004 last spring he told us it would be out by late summer, we though he ment '03 but maybe he was talking about '04. Â But seriously i have heard that new route development has caused him to delay the printing. also i don't know how the vantage guide book is selling, costs them a lot of $ up front to print the books. Quote
arlen Posted March 10, 2004 Posted March 10, 2004 The xeroxed quick and dirty guide is ok if you know a few routes at each area already. It's pretty much cracks are moderate, faces are hard, arretes are harder. Quote
faster_than_you Posted March 10, 2004 Posted March 10, 2004 JY and significant other M are working on a guide. New routes are slowing the pair down, but it will come out, hopefully this winter, with routes up and down the valley, including the goose egg. Â Hey Yoder, get to work, let's see the new guide! No more playing for you! Quote
Rocksanyone Posted March 10, 2004 Posted March 10, 2004 I'll second Goatboys suggestion. Plus it's not that far out of your way. I purchased one from there a couple years ago. $10 but not very well put together. I hope they have an updated one! Quote
sobo Posted March 10, 2004 Posted March 10, 2004 ...$10 but not very well put together. I hope they have an updated one! Â There isn't. The Q&D Guide was a "one-time" thing, and Yale has moved to Wyoming (hence the name of the Strobach ice climb, "Sudden Change of Plans") and Norm doesn't get out much anymore what with his gymnasium biz. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted March 10, 2004 Posted March 10, 2004 If any posters know JY and MF why don't you encourage them to post some tidbits here on cc.com! Â PP Quote
gabo Posted March 10, 2004 Author Posted March 10, 2004 Hmm. It doesn't really look good for the time being. I was really hoping to get away from the crowds at FC. I'm a little stretched thin of that place as of late (and that was before the accident...). Hopefully Yoder & CO will release their book soon to help the problem for a short time until the Tieton catches on like FC has recently. Is there anyway I could score from/pay for a copy of their guide book? Quote
richard_noggin Posted March 10, 2004 Posted March 10, 2004 If any posters know JY and MF why don't you encourage them to post some tidbits here on cc.com! Â PP Â Maybe if you would divulge your identity to him it would encourage him If alpinwanker ..aka..alpineK offered him a ride at the pony ranch he might give up the beta DICK Quote
tomtom Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 I've been looking for the last couple days and haven't found anything outside of Smoot's book. Is there any other source with more routes to climb available locally or online? One of Jim Nelson's books has a few routes in Tieton. Quote
Rocksanyone Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Looking for trad or sport? I'll dig it up and see what I can do for beta. I'll be going there this spring. Quote
Rocksanyone Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Has the approach changed any? Or do we still have to take the long way in over the cable bridge? Quote
sobo Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Has the approach changed any? Or do we still have to take the long way in over the cable bridge? Â Yeah, brand spankin' new footbridge replaced the old bridge last fall. Nice approach again to the Royal Columns area. Quote
gabo Posted March 11, 2004 Author Posted March 11, 2004 I was looking for mostly sport since I'm still working on my trad skills. I've never actually been there so I may go out this weekend and check it out. Â It also appears that Hyperspuds website is a little in disarray or being constructed. I'm going to call them today and if I cruise over I may pick it up while in the Yakima area. Â Continuing my trad statement above, where is a good place to test falls on pro? I was going to do it at Vantage, but the rock there isn't as diverse as I would like to see. I want to see some granite where there is some variance. When does Darrington usually come in? Late August? Quote
catbirdseat Posted March 11, 2004 Posted March 11, 2004 Why do you want to test falls on pro? If your placements are bad you might deck. Get a more experienced partner to critique your placements. If you climb hard, eventually you are going to fall off anyway. I'd prefer not to fall deliberately. Quote
gabo Posted March 11, 2004 Author Posted March 11, 2004 I've been toproping and practicing placing pro over at Vantage. I didn't explain it completely. Your statement makes perfect sense CBS. Quote
Rocksanyone Posted March 12, 2004 Posted March 12, 2004 Tieton routs for sport are quite different than Vantage. You don't have jugs and obvious holds, they're all crimpers and take a little time to find on the routs. They have humbled a couple climbers including me! But great climbs! If you're having trouble finding the guide pm me and I'll help ya. Quote
gabo Posted March 12, 2004 Author Posted March 12, 2004 SCORE! I just ordered the "Quick and Dirty" guidebook from Hyperspud who will ship it via mail for $2. Thanks Sobo, Rksanyone, and Goatboy. Quote
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