What would you climb

[Jim]

So, I'm planning a trip to Moab in April that will be a mix of climbing, and then some biking and hanging with family and friends. I'll have time for one day of cragging and one tower day.

 

So if you had the choice would you climb Ancient Art on Fisher Towers (short 10ish section otherwise 5.8) or Ja Man on Sister Superior (10c). Background: I would rather climb a 10c face any day over a 5.9 crack, which, I know, means I should climb more cracks.

[Distel32]

then spend an evening or two at big bend campground bouldering

[catbirdseat]

Is there such thing as a boulder problem with a crack? Or are they all face problems?

[Alasdair]

then spend an evening or two at big bend campground bouldering

 

Or you could pass on that and just get drunk.

[RuMR]

Is there such thing as a boulder problem with a crack? Or are they all face problems?

 

How's about bachar cracker...or the crack house...

[Peter_Puget]

In the Icicle there is a very long crack roof boulder problem. It is about 25 feet long. It ends as perfect hands.

[Jim]

No, No. I need your opinion on Ancient Art or Ja Man - which would you go for if you had one tower day available?

[willstrickland]

Having done both of those routes, Jah Man is MUCH better climbing. Ancient Art is a novelty, but has the coolest summit pitch ever, and might be the only route you want to climb in the Fishers.

 

If you decide on Jah Man, take a stack of .75 camalots....like 4 or 5 of 'em for the third pitch. A few .5s, couple of yellow TCUs or aliens, and one each smaller tcu/alien, and a couple of #1, #2 camalots. The chimney on the first pitch is hard to get into, but easy to climb. Pitch 3 is solid .10 thin hands crack (.5 and .75 camalot), that may shape your decision. Crux is probably the traverse. You can get off this thing with a single 60.

 

Ancient Art has bolts 4ft apart through the crux (only about 12-15ft) which could go at anything from .10b to .11b depending on which pebbles have blown off and how long since it last rained. This crux is stemming and pebble pinching. There is another The true crux is probably just walking across the "sidewalk" to the summit corkscrew. There is only a short section of crack climbing on the third pitch and it's probably a tad harder than 5.8. It's a beautiful place to be and the summit is surreal...the cap block actually moves/wobbles, you could probably trundle it if you tried. The Fishers are notorious for bad rock, but the rock on this route is really good,totally solid (but check out the anchors at the beginning of the sidewalk and see how much has washed away). Also, check out the old 1/4" star dryvin bolts at the first and 3rd belays. Two 60m ropes will put you on the ground from the P2 anchors (on the ledge below the sidewalk).

 

If it were me, I'd do Jah Man, or if you're up for it do Fine Jade which is better than either of these (you'll need to be able to climb .11 crack for Jade).

[lost_arrow]

they are both excellent routes - ancient art is cruiser, with a real adventure feel, but if can feel a bit short. jah man is a sweet climb - great thin fingers. if you aren't a wall climber - ancient art will probably be your only trip up a fischer tower...and a classic summitt pitch as well.

 

the 5.11 section is sporty and easy to move through.

[thelawgoddess]

i'm not familiar with jah man, but if you do ancient art your friends and family can hike around and watch. it's a nice area to hang out and topping out looks like a lot of fun.

[dylan_taylor]

Background: I would rather climb a 10c face any day over a 5.9 crack, which, I know, means I should climb more cracks.

 

I like Jahman on S.S. more too.

 

The "10c" face on the topout of Jahman is rather trivial. A one move wonder at best. Its the ring-locks to tight-handies that you would want to worry about. It will feel 5.11 if you're not a crack climber. The smaller your hands are, the better. The traversy crux on the second (real) pitch is kind of wierd as well. The above gear suggestions are good beta. You can do Jahman in two pitches pretty easily, but belaying at the top of the sister squeeze might simplify things. Do the next pitch to the bolt anchor, then run the last two together. Don't get suckered into clipping the trashy bolt anchor right before the face climbing bit to the summit. If you're willing to run it out, the climbing 10 ft to the right of those anchors is super easy, and your rope will run straighter.

Enyoy.

[bigwalling]

World's End in a day! Let me know if you live, placeing heads in mud will surely be a life altering experiance. I can only dream.

[Jim]

Hmmm. Food for thought. Sounds like Ja Man would build more character and (hopefully) help with my crack climbing while Ancient Art is a cruise with a Dr. Suess finish. Thanks for the specifics.