Jarred_Jackman Posted February 10, 2004 Share Posted February 10, 2004 Anybody have an idea on the summit time for Yocum. I know this is an open ended conditions based questions. I'm not looking for perfection, just a ballpark figure of how many hours from the lot, assuming the folks climbing are in decent shape and move well together. take care Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted February 10, 2004 Share Posted February 10, 2004 Depends. Are you planning on doing it direct, i.e. climbing all three gendarmes and the headwall, or circumventing these obstacles? As a ballpark I would say it would take anywhere from 12 hours to two days doing the entire ridge direct. Traversing around the gendarmes would dramatically reduce this estimate. This doesn't help much I know but there are so many variables: aerobic fitness, route conditions--whether its rimed up or not, weather, approach conditions, etc. I think it took my partner and I about 4-6 hours from T-line to our retreat point near the top of the first gendarme. We were moving very slowly in near-perfect conditions on the approach but the ridge itself was in terrible shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titus_Canby Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 Dude if you have to ask that I'd suggest a trip up the hogsback arete might be in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarred_Jackman Posted February 18, 2004 Author Share Posted February 18, 2004 Thanks for the tip, I tried that route but it seemed too serious for me. I don't like to enter the danger zone and I just wasn't feeling like the hogsback was the route for me. There's always next time though right? Keep climbing, keep living, keep the faith and the good Lord will protect the righteous!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 ....and the good Lord will protect the righteous!!! Excuse me! You are clueless, man. I'm not sure about your adjective but I'm damn sure god doesn't protect anybody...rightous or not. If you believe otherwise you have on serious blinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 I'm damn sure god doesn't protect anybody...rightous or not. If you believe otherwise you have on serious blinders. divine intervention sure explains a lot of the shit i have lived through. but i aint righteous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarred_Jackman Posted February 18, 2004 Author Share Posted February 18, 2004 Fuck god, religion is a lie, it was a joke in regards to the dipshit who told me I should go up the Hogsback, what a wanker. If you think I'm religious then you may need to wake up, this site is so full of bullshit I can't believe anybody would actually believe something that is written. Maybe I'm the one with the hook in my mouth and you two are reeling me in, who knows. Definitely funny though that you seemed to think I would actually entertain the thought that there is some sort of all powerful being in the world. Fuck that unrational notion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 see you in hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 Jarred, decent shape and simulclimbing, I would say something like +2 hours to Illumination +1 hour to base of Yocum across the Reid +6 hours on route to upper Queens Chair YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 it was a joke in regards to the dipshit who told me I should go up the Hogsback, what a wanker. He's a real poseur Never contributes All around jerk who never is nice to complete strangers Never gives out good beer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Jarred, decent shape and simulclimbing, I would say something like +2 hours to Illumination... Jeezuschrist, Alex! 3,500 feet in 2 hours?! I'd say that's more than "decent" shape! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erewhon Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Take it easy and crash at Ill Saddle. Make sure the conditions are PERFECT and then giver her a go. With all gendarmes (direct) should be 12-16 hours. Traversing should take 6-10 hours roughly. Or bite off a smaller piece to start out with and do Leuthold Col with the Upper Buttress of Yocum to get a moderate dosage of the terrain for the next time. Just remember there are still more difficult routes than this one on the little hill that could! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarred_Jackman Posted February 19, 2004 Author Share Posted February 19, 2004 Actually it took us 2 hours and 20 minutes to the saddle, under an hour to the ridge, and we were on the ridge proper after a quick 5-10 minutes cruise up some fun terrain. I don't think we're in great shape, just descent, we don't work out or anything, don't run, so if you're heading up I would say you could make it to the ridge in less than four hours (it's packed the whole way thanks for snow cats). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Jarred, decent shape and simulclimbing, I would say something like +2 hours to Illumination... Jeezuschrist, Alex! 3,500 feet in 2 hours?! I'd say that's more than "decent" shape! 1,750 feet per hour on the Palmer is definately a good time. I'm ususally about 1,500 in boots, a bit faster on skins, and am only in decent shape. 1,500 gets you to the saddle in 2 hours 20 minutes. I'd rather stay in a comfy bunkbed at Timberline Lodge or at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Sorry, I am assuming anyone who is going to Illumination is doing so with skis and skins. 1500+ vert an hour with skis on below 9000 ft doesnt seem that extreme to me, especially for someone who is seriously trying Yocum. Sure, it might be a harder pace than your average Joe going up Tiger Mountain, but then again if you need 4 hours to get to Illumination you may want to try another route. The real question is, "What Would Colin Do? (WWCD)" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Sorry, Alex, I was thinking of that time suggestion of yours as booting it up there. I suppose you could stash your boards and come down from the Pearly Gates behind Crater Rock to pick them up. I was thinking of the descent in terms of a striaght bug-out from the top down to Timberline. Hence, booting it up to Illumination. My bad. That time on skins is doable, even by this FOWB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Jarred, decent shape and simulclimbing, I would say something like +2 hours to Illumination... Jeezuschrist, Alex! 3,500 feet in 2 hours?! I'd say that's more than "decent" shape! 1,750 feet per hour on the Palmer is definately a good time. I'm ususally about 1,500 in boots, a bit faster on skins, and am only in decent shape. 1,500 gets you to the saddle in 2 hours 20 minutes. I'd rather stay in a comfy bunkbed at Timberline Lodge or at home. It takes me 2h-10m-11.875s to get to the saddle. Anything more is just embarressing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 Time to I. Saddle is so variable that this whole question is ridiculous. With a heavy pack in shitty conditions I gave up after 4 hours of effort. One morning in August I made it there and back to the lodge in less than 2 hours. BFD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 anyone else want to ring in with their cooler-than-thou i. saddle times? p.s. if you can't get to the top of palmer in under an hour you best turn around and go home sissy bwahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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