texplorer Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 With the cold spell coming up Yocum might be coming in. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 So what do all you Mt. Hood veterens think about the avy conditions up there. Going under leutholds can sometimes be a bit scary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Going under leutholds can sometimes be a bit scary. run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 I don't think avy stuff is an issue, it is so easy to get by there out of harm's way. However, the exit gully to the hourglass will be pretty frightful in higher avalanche conds, and that's pretty much the escape off the south side of the ridge. Two folks were nailed by avalanche there in January last year. I don't think I'd want to be stuck on the ridge if shit hits the fan since it is hard to get off quickly, and the forecast is not exactly clean. Anyway, you'll know you're alive I guess. Please do not employ seige tactics on the ridge. The cc.com "flavor of the month" crap needs to stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 (edited) so you'll be up there this weekend, iain? i agree on the scary escape route in bad avy conditions Edited January 21, 2004 by ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 [drool] [/drool] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 hah I want to see friday forecast before I go up there again. January "squalls" up there are brutal and merciless, and they don't "show up on the radar" in the weather forecast as far as I can tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 I was three quarters of the way up the first gendarme in February a couple years ago and I'm here to tell ya, its not a fun place when the shit hits the fan. You won't escape it very quickly. I have a pic we took on that climb that looks similar to Wickwire's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 I Please do not employ seige tactics on the ridge. The cc.com "flavor of the month" crap needs to stop. CC.com Siegefest '04 This weekend: Yocum next weekend: The Black Spider Next month: Willis Wall Somehow I don't see that many people wanting do Yocum, Iain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted January 22, 2004 Author Share Posted January 22, 2004 When TG and I tried it the first G. was totally exposed and much steeper than that pic. I think it's probably the 2nd or third Gendy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 I believe that photo is of the backside (eastside) of the first gendarme from on the ridgeline just past it. The hidden side is the steep part, about 75 degrees from a trip report I read on rec.climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 (edited) I thought it was the first gendarme at the point where we bailed. Apparently its on the backside though. Edited January 22, 2004 by rbw1966 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 The picture I have is from the west side of the first gendarme and like others have noted, its a bit steeper than the Wickwire photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
girlclimber Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 i read somewhere that it's the third gendarme....probably on this site! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 I think it's below the first police man. Taken with slight telephoto from the top. Tex, I think that crotch on the left is where you belayed me up and the point where the dood is sitting is just above the crux of your pitch. Where he is sitting is about where you would have run out of rope if we used 50's. That's my opinion...and I'm stickin' to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 Well??? How was it? How did all you hardmen fare? What are the conditions like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 uhhh, climbing at smith was kinda cool... the turn-off for timberline looked all cold and snowy and stuff so i got scared and kept heading east Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 hahah I know a friend was pinned down at I. saddle all weekend. couldn't leave the tent for fear of being blown off the mountain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 if his experience was like mine last year in the same place he also was out of his tent every 2 hours to excavate the mountain of snow that accumulates at the gap, just below i-rock...all the while listening to that godawful howl from just a few feet away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted January 28, 2004 Share Posted January 28, 2004 uhhh, climbing at smith was kinda cool... the turn-off for timberline looked all cold and snowy and stuff so i got scared and kept heading east Funny thing, Ivan; my respect for you as a climber went up a notch for NOT atempting Y. ridge. See you at Pete's. Iain, say hi, please...don't do the hideing as DFA bull-shite this time around. I would like to meet you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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