Mos_Chillin Posted December 28, 2003 Share Posted December 28, 2003 When I was climbing in Toulumne a few years back, I ran into a German whose rack looked kind of like this: Years ago, I wanted to do a climb requiring a #4 but couldn't justify buying one, couldn't find one to borrow, so I ended up making the gear out of a piece of hardwood slung with webbing. I never used it, but had it for years, and would pull it out as a joke occasionally. I have read on this board someone who tied off an iceax buried in some moss? What other kinds of strange gear have you used? Discuss. -Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted December 28, 2003 Share Posted December 28, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 I used one of my prusiks as a piece of pro once by jamming the knot into a crack, a la that German guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 I was solo aiding "Toes of The Fisherman" at Smith once and there weren't any anchors. Being a cheap bastard, I found a rock that fit into the crack, slung it with webbing, gave it the bounce test, and bailed off it. In retrospect, that probably wasn't very smart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 I got a couple quick draws that look like the red and white striped webing, except i got those clippy thingyz on the ends... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 When I was climbing in Toulumne a few years back, I ran into a German whose rack looked kind of like this: I believe that's actually standard/required protection at some of the sandstone crags near Dresden in Germany. Others here probably know more..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 The stuck knot is a art! The unstuck knot is science. To know both is handy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 That orange thingy looks bomber.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 it wouldnt even hold a funkin' let alone a fall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 When I was climbing in Toulumne a few years back, I ran into a German whose rack looked kind of like this: I believe that's actually standard/required protection at some of the sandstone crags near Dresden in Germany. Others here probably know more..... Sketch city, the only pro is knots and bigass bolts. Metal hardwear is forbidden due to percieved rock damage. I never led much, I don't hold much faith in either the rock or the pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 ...I found a rock that fit into the crack, slung it with webbing, gave it the bounce test, and bailed off it. In retrospect, that probably wasn't very smart. Hey, that's great stuff! I've done that quite a few times in the past (Mt. Stuart and Les Calanques come immediately to mind). Make sure you place the slingage to one side of the rock or the other, against the side of the crack's wall. It helps to jam it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 who was it who proposed stuffing falcons in offwidths during nesting season? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 who was it who proposed stuffing falcons in offwidths during nesting season? Sooooo... would that be a WSCD? (wing spread camming device) What sizes do they come in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 (rattley hands for minx) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 (tricam version) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 Good one, iain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 (rattley hands for minx) I'll take a coupla in size K2, if'n ya don't mind. They're kinda cute little buggerz... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 (tricam version) Overheard from nerdy newbie at the REI climbing counter: "Do they fold up for easy transport on your rack?" "Oh, sure. No problem." "How do you get them to deploy once you put 'em in the crack?" "Well, that's what this here little straw is for..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 They're kinda cute little buggerz... until they go totally ballistic and shred your face with their razor sharp talons of death mwahaha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 I was solo aiding "Toes of The Fisherman" at Smith once and there weren't any anchors. Being a cheap bastard, I found a rock that fit into the crack, slung it with webbing, gave it the bounce test, and bailed off it. In retrospect, that probably wasn't very smart. I have done that too, but in Granite, not sure if I would trust that Tuft stuff. In Granite with a solid rock I feel safe and trust it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 I did that at Red Rocks once with a bust off varnish plate. Quick learning curve on not following Swains directions on getting off Solar Slab (first climb at RR) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 They're kinda cute little buggerz... until they go totally ballistic and shred your face with their razor sharp talons of death mwahaha. no worries, birds of feather..... can i have 2? i like to have back ups of all my cams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 can i have 2? i like to have back ups of all my cams. would be kind of a pain on your rack when they start squabbling with each other. maybe you could separate them a bit with one of those aid racks. the noise would be intolerable after awhile, and no doubt your belayer would have to carry an umbrella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 classic alternative to falcons in wet cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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