thelawgoddess Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 i'm thinking about starting to accumulate an aid rack. just curious what pieces some of you might think i should collect first. i want to do more walls in yosemite and i prefer ascents on the speedier side to lengthier party-style ones. Quote
erik Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 aliens and offset aliens, brass nutz, offset nutz, more small cams. cam hooks, and all the other hooks too... and lotsa practice. that is the best gear for aid climbing. Quote
Norsky Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 First off a couple of brass balls should be clipped on the double sling rack. Something to kill all that time when belaying. I have a triple rack of all cams, offset aliens are awesome for flaring pin scars, aliens in general rule. Offset brassies are key as well. Get a really good quality wall hauler, the cheaper pulleys will sap your energy faster than anything else. I don't do much non-clean aiding, so i'm not much help with nails etc. Good luck, have you done any walls yet? It's way more work than you could imagine! Rewarding though! Quote
erik Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 and dont forget the aiders and daisies and there are the acenders too!!! i prefer to only use one aider per daisy, tho i dont aid that hard...and sometimes bring along an extra aider for spicer sections. and dont worry bone, will have something written up pretty quick and he is on the money! Quote
Lambone Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 edit: ok, you guys beeat me to it... TLG, Go with a set of HB Offset Nuts first, small brass through large aluminum. They are invaluable, I don't even carry regular nuts in Yosemite. Get a couple of cam hooks, mid size. They are cheap, and if you learn to trust them early, you will use them as much if not more than anything else. Aliens are what you want for small cams. Go with one set of regular and one set of offset to start. For big cams I go with 1 set of Camolots doubled with a lighter cam like Metolius or Wild Country. Don't forget some regular hooks, a Talon, Cliffhanger, and 1 big hook will get you by on most routes. Some routes you need doubles. Most Yosem Walls have at least some fixed heads. Take either some heads and a hammer or a good cheaterstick. Some other trinkets that can be usefull are Trango Ball-Nuts - the smaller ones, duck tape and Tie-off webbing. I might think of more stuff in a minute. Most importantly, go with the suggested rack in the supertacos book...they are almost allways spot on. Quote
lummox Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 a hefty freeclimbing rack will get you up many many walls. you dont have to buy a load a crap to wallclimb (thats the dirty little secret of the wallgear business). when all ya got is a hammer every problem is a nail. Quote
Lambone Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 (edited) lummox said: a hefty freeclimbing rack will get you up many many walls. you dont have to buy a load a crap to wallclimb (thats the dirty little secret of the wallgear business). when all ya got is a hammer every problem is a nail. This is true, adding tiny nuts and hooks to a hefty free rack (read: yours and your partners combined) will get you up most any of the intro trade routes. Fancy offset stuff makes things easier and quicker, but a good old set of TCU's is time tested. Edited December 5, 2003 by Lambone Quote
Lambone Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Other stuff you will need. -Helmet -Knee Pads and good leather gloves, (get the Metolius ones, they are worth it.) -Jumars -(I like Petzl) -Hauler - Pro-Traxion or Kong Block Roll -Ropes, 10.5-11 mil...Mamut Supersafe is the best wall rope. Haul line, I like the Sterling polyesther static chords. -Kong adjustable fifi -Aiders and daisies. I like regular daisies-get the longest ones, and when I replace my BD aiders some day I will get the Yates ladders. Quote
fern Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 I don't know much too much about Yos walls. I think Squamish walls need more hook variety though, a couple of bathooks and something filed pointy to whack into deadheads are handy. Fixed heads here seem to corrode within a season due to wetness, the cables rot off. Quote
chelle Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 For a hauler you can't beat the protraxion IMO. Also, for knee pads you can just get some from a sproting goods store like big5. The metolious ones are more expensive and not that comfy. They're gloves rock though. Get a second set of BD nuts, and a full set of HB offset brass nuts. FOr the valley I also like their larger offsets. I have them up to a #10. They work great in the pin scars. And you will want the black and blue alien. They look small, but they will feel more secure than a nut and are totally worth it, and the red alien is the largest one to buy. Go with TCUs or BD for larger sizes. The offsets are sometimes hard to find but the Pagan Mountaineering store in Utah should have them. Getting the blue/green, green/yellow, and yellow/red will probably cover most anything. Quote
jdog Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 ski season just started and you have to buy a set of tele, randonee, and alpine gear. how the heck are you going to afford a big wall rack on top of all that ski gear? embrace the ski season for a few months. worry about the rack later. Quote
Lambone Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 ehmmic said: For a hauler you can't beat the protraxion IMO. Also, for knee pads you can just get some from a sproting goods store like big5. The metolious ones are more expensive and not that comfy. They're gloves rock though. Get a second set of BD nuts, and a full set of HB offset brass nuts. FOr the valley I also like their larger offsets. I have them up to a #10. They work great in the pin scars. Yeah I meant the Met gloves. Any rollerblad kneepoad is fine, but I like the ones with the plastic cap. I saw a guy crush his kneecap on the South Face of the Column from a small fall...bad news. Forget two sets of BD nuts. 1 if that is plenty, spend your $ on offsets. Quote
lummox Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Lambone said: Other stuff you will need. -Helmet -Knee Pads and good leather gloves, (get the Metolius ones, they are worth it.) -Jumars -(I like Petzl) -Hauler - Pro-Traxion or Kong Block Roll -Ropes, 10.5-11 mil...Mamut Supersafe is the best wall rope. Haul line, I like the Sterling polyesther static chords. -Kong adjustable fifi -Aiders and daisies. I like regular daisies-get the longest ones, and when I replace my BD aiders some day I will get the Yates ladders. gloves and kneepads are NOT a need. a fifi is NOT a need. a wallhauler is NOT a need. special 'wall' rope is NOT a need nor is special hauling line. and if you buy a portaledge for your first wall you deserve what you will pay. Quote
Lambone Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 true nuff... I should have said, things that will make wall climbing more fun, safer, faster, more effecient, and greatly reduce the suck/suffer factor. The hardmen/women who climb superfast don't bring most of that shite. But don't kid yourself into thinking you'll be doing speed ascents on your first big wall. That plan has "bail" written all over it. Your first wall won't be fast, it also won't be "party style"...it will be seemingly endless work, pain, suffering, waiting for other newbies in front of you, and raceing to get to the top before you run out of water, constantly fighting the fear of exposure, commintment, and the urge to bail back to the bar. Only once you are familiar and comfortable with the realities of big wall climbing will it become a party. Go prepared for this and it might even be fun! Quote
boatskiclimbsail Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Standard trad rack plus: Another (no trad rack is complete without at least one set) set of HB offsets in the whole range, CuZn and Al If you can afford them, the offset aliens the house Lots more biners. Lots. Spend some time figuring out how you want to rack the gear, shoulder slings hurt when you triple your trad rack and wear them for a few hours. Come to think about it, get a cushy harness too or at least a belay seat. I justify bringing up a good sounding pair of headphones and lots-o batteries for long climbs and overnighters. Makes everything better. I assume you'll be sticking to clean aid if youre asking about a rack, otherwise throw in the most comfy hammer you can get, the old Chouinard if you can find one. The value of a comfy hammer was learned long ago framing houses. Worth the extra bucks. A good hauling pulley will make the process "suck less" and is worth some money for a nice big ball bearing sheave. Quote
willstrickland Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Lots of good advice so far. Personally, I'd never do a wall without kneepads. I prefer the ones WITHOUT the plastic caps because the plastic tends to slide around. I've used the cheap "Bike" brand volleyball type knee pads and they are superlight and cheap enough to be considered disposable, which is good because the foam in these will be shot after one wall. The gel filled neoprene ones are nice, but get slimy when it's hot. They don't lose their resiliency though. My $0.02 on the rack: In Yos, a double set of offset aliens RULEZ! Hopefully your parter has a set to add to your set. Cam hooks, with doubles in the medium. HB offsets in the full range of sizes. Get more biners, you never have enough on a wall. Double gear sling is nice (I like the BD one). Get a good hauler. I use the ProTraxion, but the wheel could be bigger, I'd investigate the Kong that 'Bone mentioned. Gri-gri is always on the wall with me. If you're taking a hammer, take a funkness too. This has all been said before, but a chant speaks louder than a single voice. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted December 6, 2003 Author Posted December 6, 2003 jdog said: ski season just started and you have to buy a set of tele, randonee, and alpine gear. how the heck are you going to afford a big wall rack on top of all that ski gear? embrace the ski season for a few months. worry about the rack later. hey jdog, i bought the tele touring set-up and ice tools and crampons, but i'm still hesitating on a pair of at bindings, some fat skis, and new downhill boots ... and you forgot the snowboarding gear! but here's my problem: i have a job that lasts until the ski season ends. which translates to having some money now ... and - more importantly - not knowing if i'll have any money later. i'm not going to go out and buy a full aid rack, although it sure would be nice if i could afford to do just that. i was just curious what more seasoned wall climbers' opinions were on getting started. i did a wall this summer so i know what personal gear i need (and want), but it sure makes it difficult to find climbing partners when you also need them to provide your half of the gear. thanks to everybody for their two cents (and then some)! i'm really looking forward to doing more walls next year!!! Quote
Sol Posted December 6, 2003 Posted December 6, 2003 Don't forget you plastic wall bong with keeper sling for those long 2 hour belays, oh yeah, and don't even think about jumping on a wall without a homeade bosun's chair. Aid climbing, the lazy person's sport. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted December 6, 2003 Author Posted December 6, 2003 frosty_the_tradman said: Aid climbing, the lazy person's sport. hardly! Quote
glassgowkiss Posted December 6, 2003 Posted December 6, 2003 thelawgoddess said: frosty_the_tradman said: Aid climbing, the lazy person's sport. hardly! he is right. look at jim beyer. that guy has fitness level of a grehound bus driver. Quote
lummox Posted December 6, 2003 Posted December 6, 2003 frosty_the_tradman said: Don't forget you plastic wall bong with keeper sling for those long 2 hour belays plastic? what a gumby. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted December 6, 2003 Author Posted December 6, 2003 glassgowkiss said: he is right. look at jim beyer. that guy has fitness level of a grehound bus driver. well, on that logic, you must consider alpine climbing a fat lazy man's sport, too. Quote
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