Paul_detrick Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 What if you knew of a new climbing area, would you share it with the people on this board, or would you hold out, and let the small group of climbers who use it now have it all? What if there where great cracks, long faces, kool korners, big jugs. I would not want to see what's happening at some areas to go on there. IF there where a new area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 It's mine, all mine!Ahhahahahaha!(Well, chuck knows where it is.) [ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: ScottP ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock-ice Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 What do you know something we don't?!?!?!? I think Paul's holding out on us. No seroiusly,I'm with you. All the junk thats happening at places like Vantage and Exit 38 has convinced my that keeping it to yourself or a small group of people will atleast let you get in some quality climbs before the word gets out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 When I lived in Utah, I knew of a crag that was similar to the fabled Mill Creek...unknown to about everyone, no guide, few routes but great potential, occasionally a pic would hit the mags and I'd hold my breath hoping the caption didn't give it away. Basically a few hardcore from SLC were the only ones in the know beyond the five or six climbers in my town (of 300) which was as close to "local" for this crag as you get. I;ve seen at least five or six photos of this area in the mags always caption simply "southern Utah". I've told a total of 4 people about this place, 2 boulderers and 2 trad climbers, all good friends and partners. I doubt it would be an issue even if people knew where it was because it's remote, but people used to think that about Indian Creek/Canyonlands/etc too ehh? I'm not giving up the stash and it's bomber granite in the high desert. More of an issue is the fact that there is a rad boulder field at the base of the wall. Yes, as an American it's your land too, but so what, you go find it. I put up some FAs in the Hood Nat Forest last year. I told several people where, what, how to get there, how to avoid the bushwhack we enjoyed. Nobody was much interested...new crags are work! Anyone with an interest, USGS topo, and middle-school level research skills can find this 1-2 pitch basalt wall, with a 15 minute approach and start cleaning, trundling, etc. You can clearly see this thing across the drainage from a prominent hiking trail. I feel no need to develop (i.e. alter the area) it or publicize it...for many reasons, but the biggest being that the it would take a crew of 6 or 10 a whole weekend to clean, trundle, etc and make the place a safe spot to try FAs without pulling a ton of loose rock off. I don't know 6 people in PDX (not saying they aren't here, I just don't know them) who I'd trust to put up good thoughtful routes, on gear, from the ground up. I know of two areas in Utah awaiting first ascents. I don't say awaiting "development", because I don't crave development. It brings people and all their baggage...trash, pets, cars. Sometimes just going in to try some lines, with no idea of how hard it will be, and leaving nothing beyond a rap sling or two is the way to go. No trails, no parking hassles, no garbage. Also, no squeeze jobs, or routes for the sake of number of routes. I see crappy routes all over because someone felt the need to establish more climbs beyond the good stuff to accomodate the increase in numbers of climbers. These two areas are also remote and since I don't know the ownership status of the land in either case, I'm definitely not sending anyone in there (and because I haven't gotten the pick of the stash yet). For me the reasons boil down to this: 1. I'm selfish, I want the cherry FAs. You want a pristine new area...do the research both on paper and in the field.2. I don't like "development" much, especially in the case of a new area where adventure is part of the game.3. I know eventually word gets 'round to the "community" and next thing I know there are bolts, hangers,bolt thieves, car break-ins, etc. It's selfish, and I'll be the first to admit it, but I honestly believe that anyone with the real desire for FAs, new crags, etc can easily get the info. Spend the time talking to people, doing research, and climbing with a wide variety of partners and you'll find the goods. Remember seeing a cool outcropping 2 miles cross country from where you picnicked with your SO? Well hike your ass in there and check it out. I remember some Jeff Apple-Benowitz article where he talked of pouring over a topo and finding a likely spot for ice, then skiing six miles in to see what was there. Ever see a crag that retained it's "secret" status for more than a few years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 I know where tons of crags are. People just dont want to walk there..... with all their gear to develop them.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 There are many more unclimbed crags than you can possibly shake a stick at. There are rad unclimbed walls and splitter cracks 15 minutes drive from my house (just a little bit mossy ). But since they arent at Squamish there is no scene and no one would repeat any lines that got put up. Maybe if I write a Fraser Valley guidebook... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 You guys are funny chest beating with all these photos.. There are endless crags out there. You think your crags are gems and they might be but they way you go about it is more childish than spray Tons of shit like them in the Icicle just nobody wants to walk.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 Some people do walk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 Yeah Jeez, I feel childish as shit. What am I, like 13 or something? That "crag" picture I posted is Big Snow Mtn. It's a pretty good walk there now, but you better hurry to do it, cause if those f**kers get their way, it's gonna be a lot further in after they gate the Middle Fork Sno road. I got an announcement the other day that the environmental assessment report will be out soon. You have to reply that you "really really want it" for them to keep you on the mailing list. Does that mean they skipped the usual period where they put out 5 plans from do nothing to close the entire forest with their preferred plan right in the middle, then have a comment period? I hope not. Just in case, give Doug Schrenk a call (425)888-1421 ext 233 and tell him you want to keep access open to the end of Middle Fork Snoq road and Big Snow Mountain, Burnboot, Hinman, Bears Breast, Little Big Chief, Summit Chief, Chimney Rock, and Overcoat. LB Chief, Summit Chief, Chimney Rock, Overcoat [ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: chucK ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: LB Chief, Summit Chief, Chimney Rock, Overcoat[ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: chucK ] What is the buttress in the center of the picture like? Looks like a fun route. I dont have my brown Beckey memorized yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 That's Summit Chief Mountain. I don't think that buttress is in the old Brown Beckey. I haven't bought the new Brown yet. We walked underneath that thing going to Chimney Rock a few years back. It looked impressive but there was a very big red (=rotten?) talus cone at the base. Here's picture of it this winter I found on tom unger's page. I'm just posting a link since the picture is big!http://www.tumtum.com/gallery/images/skiing/BigSnow02/BigSnow02_42.jpgSummit Chief is just right and above Glide's head. That buttress is probably right in the middle of the face from this angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: That's Summit Chief Mountain. I don't think that buttress is in the old Brown Beckey. I haven't bought the new Brown yet. We walked underneath that thing going to Chimney Rock a few years back. It looked impressive but there was a very big red (=rotten?) talus cone at the base.Here's picture of it this winter I found on tom unger's page. I'm just posting a link since the picture is big! http://www.tumtum.com/gallery/images/skiing/BigSnow02/BigSnow02_42.jpgSummit Chief is just right and above Glide's head. That buttress is probably right in the middle of the face from this angle. I will tick it off right after me and Erik do our long overdue "Bare Breasts on Bears Breast" expedition. Potential sponsors and breast barers welcome. Erik will send you an application form if you send him a pm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 [ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: Matt ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: Yeah Jeez, I feel childish as shit. What am I, like 13 or something? THAT was funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by ScottP: THAT was funny. What is funny is your yankin each others peckers on this web page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: What is funny is your yankin each others peckers on this web page What's REALLY funny is how easy it is to yank your chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: I will tick it off right after me and Erik do our long overdue "Bare Breasts on Bears Breast" expedition. Potential sponsors and breast barers welcome. Erik will send you an application form if you send him a pm. yes that is part of the pop star high alpine traverse planned for this summer......britney, christina, mariah(yes i know it is choss heap), mandy, tiffany and belinda...... this has been a dream for me for like 6 or 7 seconds!!!!!! and i alredy have recieved somewhere around like 300 apps, hurry spots for financial contibutors is running out fast.......we need to reach our goal of a life of ease soon.....!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by ScottP: What's REALLY funny is how easy it is to yank your chain. Pecker yankers You guys bend over together Gross! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 with some sweat and effort, this secret little gem can be all yours too! shhhhh... just don't tell the others if you find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by offwidthclimber: with some sweat and effort, this secret little gem can be all yours too! shhhhh... just don't tell the others if you find it. I know the area you are talking about. Total choss but looks good from a distance. Not even worth going there. I heard there are access issues too. Oh and those FAs you have been eying up were probably done back in the 60's but never reported. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 Originally posted by ScottP:[QB]It's mine, all mine!Ahhahahahaha!(Well, chuck knows where it is.)] Uh, hate to burst your bubble ScottP, but you told me where it was a year or two ago when we were climbing with Rob. I won't tell, for money. Or cams. or cookies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 quote: Originally posted by klar404: Originally posted by ScottP:[QB]It's mine, all mine!Ahhahahahaha!(Well, chuck knows where it is.)] Uh, hate to burst your bubble ScottP, but you told me where it was a year or two ago when we were climbing with Rob. I won't tell, for money. Or cams. or cookies? Oops. Well, did you ever get up there? I saw you in Feathered Friends a while back walking on crutches. I didn't stop to talk because my son was running rampant. What happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 quote: I saw you in Feathered Friends a while back walking on crutches. God I wish i was getting fat 'cause I was on crutches! It wasn't me you saw at fethered friends. That was my alter ego. And no, I haven't been up to the craig, even though I walked right by it last summer. The people I was with wouldn't have enjoyed the tromp down through the weeds. Maybe this summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_detrick Posted April 3, 2002 Author Share Posted April 3, 2002 SOoooo, maybe if someone climbed with some guys, at a area they did not know so well, say like Index, than that person might take them to a place he knew better. Or he might invite someone just to climb with. And say this place was not so know, would THEY tell everone else. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.