EWolfe Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 Wow! Just got the first issue of this mag, and IT ROCKS! There's some sweet pics of bulging pecs, wicked sloper moves and sick contortion, as well as some hotties on some v-hards! Gym climbers just don't get enough zine time, but we're out there now! It's ABOUT TIME!! The text covers important issues like: What is the best chalkball? The best way to clean holds. Dustmasks: Yes or No ? The fine art of gym sandbagging. Best regional gyms. And on-fire arguments like: Crimpers for the regulars, or jugs for the moderates? Quote
Linebacker Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 Brought to you by the editors of TopRope magazine With thought provoking articles like "How do they get those thingys down from the anchor?" Quote
Distel32 Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 I really loved the picture of the guy doing the figure four 4feet off the ground over that old krusty looking futon! Too classic! The best article (IMHO) was the one about what angle the holds should be taped at, that was good readin' Quote
Dru Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 and the burning issue of how to name taped routes: route setter name, copy from a crag route, or something famous? eg: i did "Chain Reaction" yesterday, that blue sloper route on the Metolius holds next to the kiddy slab Quote
schlangeschmecker Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 MisterE said: The text covers important issues like: What is the best chalkball? The best chalkball is the one that has been cut open, its contents added to that of two or three other chalkballs and dumped into a 1/2 gallon sized, 1979-vintage Strawberry Mountain chalk bag. The best way to clean holds. Given the lifestyles of some of these gym climbers, I'd disinfect with Lysol. Dustmasks: Yes or No ? Hell yes! On my last gym visit, the chalk dust was so thick it made the homely girls back in the bouldering pit look good from the front door. The fine art of gym sandbagging. That is when you tell the new guy that the climb he's about to try (advertised at 5.11) is only 5. 10. Of course, by Index standards, it's really 5.8+. Quote
layton Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 Yo Oompaloomp! You are too fucking awesome! If I don't know you, hopefully one day we can eat flavor sticks and marzipan joy joys (mit iodine) in der mountains one day. You rock! Quote
schlangeschmecker Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 michael_layton said: Yo Oompaloomp! You are too fucking awesome! If I don't know you, hopefully one day we can eat flavor sticks and marzipan joy joys (mit iodine) in der mountains one day. You rock! Ja, sicher! Und I could teach you how to yodel and blow mein alpen horn! Quote
EWolfe Posted November 10, 2003 Author Posted November 10, 2003 Distel32 said: I really loved the picture of the guy doing the figure four 4feet off the ground over that old krusty looking futon! Too classic! The best article (IMHO) was the one about what angle the holds should be taped at, that was good readin' Personally, I think the best one was the GymRats article, here's an excerpt: "Like outdoor climbers, we gym rats have a highly developed culture, which exists in it's purest form in gym caves, where rat deities are born of overhangs and high v-grades. Cave rats have two defining characteristics: We are prone to worship fellow rats who send v-hard, and we never climb alone. We travel in packs, to ensure appropriate spots, to secure inter-group beta, and to maximize fun. The pack serves a fourth, all-important purpose - it wards off wandering beta-wolves." This is critical stuff for any indoor climber. Quote
bunglehead Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 Are you guys serious? Cuz, that'd be like, pretty umm... sad... and uh, funny. Quote
rr666 Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 That was a great first ascent article too. That blue route at Stone Gardens just looks mean. They must have worked on it for months... Hard to believe what they can do. Quote
Necronomicon Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 bunglehead said: Are you guys serious? Cuz, that'd be like, pretty umm... sad... and uh, funny. I talked with Geoff, the publisher, this weekend at the wall up here in Bellingham. He's done a limited run for the first issue, to kind of gauge peoples responses. It's pretty slick, sort of like an "Alpinist" for the indoor crowd. Not my bag, but a good looking mag for sure. Quote
bunglehead Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 Wow. Guess I'd have to see it first, but I alway s thought of the gym as just a place to practice, not an actual climbing detsination. But then again, there's indoor skating, isn't there? Quote
olyclimber Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 bunglehead said: Wow. Guess I'd have to see it first, but I alway s thought of the gym as just a place to practice, not an actual climbing detsination. But then again, there's indoor skating, isn't there? You mean people actually climb outdoors? Isn't that dangerous? Quote
EWolfe Posted November 10, 2003 Author Posted November 10, 2003 bunglehead said: But then again, there's indoor skating, isn't there? Indoor soccer's huge, too. Quote
chelle Posted November 11, 2003 Posted November 11, 2003 Necronomicon said: bunglehead said: Are you guys serious? Cuz, that'd be like, pretty umm... sad... and uh, funny. I talked with Geoff, the publisher, this weekend at the wall up here in Bellingham. He's done a limited run for the first issue, to kind of gauge peoples responses. It's pretty slick, sort of like an "Alpinist" for the indoor crowd. Not my bag, but a good looking mag for sure. Necro - what I want to know is whether the are going to be so limiting with the number of ads in the mag? The Alpinist only lets 10 ads in each issue which really limits the amount of critical beta I have on the latest gear and trends. I really hope they don't limit the advertisements. Quote
iain Posted November 11, 2003 Posted November 11, 2003 I got my first issue and I must say I was pretty disappointed. That cool feature on the new portland rock gym was pretty cool though. Fun to watch how they molded the cracks and stuff. Quote
Necronomicon Posted November 11, 2003 Posted November 11, 2003 ehmmic said: Necronomicon said: bunglehead said: Are you guys serious? Cuz, that'd be like, pretty umm... sad... and uh, funny. I talked with Geoff, the publisher, this weekend at the wall up here in Bellingham. He's done a limited run for the first issue, to kind of gauge peoples responses. It's pretty slick, sort of like an "Alpinist" for the indoor crowd. Not my bag, but a good looking mag for sure. Necro - what I want to know is whether the are going to be so limiting with the number of ads in the mag? The Alpinist only lets 10 ads in each issue which really limits the amount of critical beta I have on the latest gear and trends. I really hope they don't limit the advertisements. I talked to Geoff about that. When I thumbed through the sample he was showing around, I was suprised to find NO ads. He says he's planning on a quarterly ad supplement, which will be all ads and no climbing, sort of like "Climbing" or "Rock & Ice". My favorite pic in the mag, though, IMHO, was the closeup of the chalked up fingers working a crimper. The picture must have been taken from above. The fingers were in focus, and the climber was kind of blurry, but you could tell is was a wicked hard crimp. It was awesome. Quote
EWolfe Posted November 11, 2003 Author Posted November 11, 2003 iain said: I got my first issue and I must say I was pretty disappointed. That cool feature on the new portland rock gym was pretty cool though. Fun to watch how they molded the cracks and stuff. I thought you would be drooling all over the ads for 20 foot scrub-brushes, fuzzy chalk bags, and Tori Allen clip-on monkeys, Iain Quote
iain Posted November 11, 2003 Posted November 11, 2003 I thought we had a deal not to talk about the monkeys. Quote
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