southernmtguide Posted October 31, 2003 Posted October 31, 2003 Hi group. Just moved to Spokane, and am interested in finding out if there is any ice forming within a couple hours drive time. It has been fairly cold here for the last few days, with more cold weather coming, so I was hoping to be doing some climbing in the next week or so. Quote
sobo Posted October 31, 2003 Posted October 31, 2003 Quiz the guys at Mountain Gear on Division Ave. There are a few of them that ice climb, can't remember their names. There is a short (1-pitch) climb on the east side of US 95 about halfway from CDA to Sandpoint, opposite a lumber yard/sawmill, somewhere near a little hole known as Athole. It's about an hour's drive out I-90 and up US 95. Quote
kurthicks Posted October 31, 2003 Posted October 31, 2003 just came out. go get it at your local gear store. I'm also looking for more Inland NW climbs. going out searching tomorrow over in idaho...i know of at least 1 FA to be had, but there's got to be more. I'll keep you posted if you want. Quote
sobo Posted October 31, 2003 Posted October 31, 2003 (edited) The Guide, of course, but I think southernmtguidedude was looking for "sentient" sources of beta. smg: Send a PM to pindude of this board. He lives in Mead, and he should know where the local reliable ice is. You can tell him sobo sent ya. He won't mind. Will ya, Steve? Also, there's some climbing further up US 95 past Bonner's Ferry, right near the road. Copper Kettle Canyon, Copper Canyon, Kettle Canyon, something like that. It's marked by the side of the highway by one of those little brown recreational road signs, and I seem to remember that it's pretty near the Canadian border. I think Gibralter Wall is a bit more than what you'd said you'd be willing to drive, but you shouldn't miss out on it this winter. Find Canal Flats on a BC map, and make the trip when you're sure it's in. You won't regret it! Edited October 31, 2003 by sobo Quote
southernmtguide Posted October 31, 2003 Author Posted October 31, 2003 Thanks to those who have posted. I do have a copy of this guide on order, and should have it Monday. I was actually hoping for someone else of like mind that may have already been out looking for something to climb and had found somehting that looked promising! I will keep checking back. Thanks again. Quote
kurthicks Posted October 31, 2003 Posted October 31, 2003 Sobo...i had to look up "sentient." stop using such big words. I thought that's what he was referring to, but the guide is a good place to start as well. i saw some ice here in Pullman today. think any of the outdoor programs at the colleges(esp NIC) have any beta? Quote
sobo Posted October 31, 2003 Posted October 31, 2003 smg: I edited a post of mine further up with other beta. ^^ You really should check with MG &/or send a PM or email to pindude. WSUmtn'r: Sorry about the "big word", but you're a Coug - I should think that you could handle it. I wouldn't be so sure if you were a DAWG! To UWers, my Nomex suit is on. Quote
Sabertooth Posted October 31, 2003 Posted October 31, 2003 Banks Lake is within 2 hours, and is quite popular. I saw some ice in Northern Idaho last winter, when places like Banks never formed. Do some scouting of rivers at higher elevations. I've found the guys at Mountain Gear to be upfront about ice in Washington (since it's covered online and in the new book), but very hush hush about Idaho Ice. Good luck extracting info from them. As Sobo said, pm or email Pindude. He probably knows some good spots. Quote
cracked Posted October 31, 2003 Posted October 31, 2003 sobo said: smg: I edited a post of mine further up with other beta. ^^ You really should check with MG &/or send a PM or email to pindude. WSUmtn'r: Sorry about the "big word", but you're a Coug - I should think that you could handle it. I wouldn't be so sure if you were a DAWG! To UWers, my Nomex suit is on. Quote
Alex Posted November 1, 2003 Posted November 1, 2003 hey smg, let us know if you find anything in spokane thats not in the guide. We tried to beat the bushes for the locals with da kine beta the last two years, but didnt find much. Banks is close to spokane, however, and with the continued cold there should be some stuff there in a few weeks time. Last year with consistent cold it took only 2 weeks for the Cable to form completely. I climbed at Banks Nov 3rd last year! Alex Quote
pindude Posted November 1, 2003 Posted November 1, 2003 sobo said: Quiz the guys at Mountain Gear on Division Ave. There are a few of them that ice climb, can't remember their names. There is a short (1-pitch) climb on the east side of US 95 about halfway from CDA to Sandpoint, opposite a lumber yard/sawmill, somewhere near a little hole known as Athole. It's about an hour's drive out I-90 and up US 95. Yup, this'd be Chilco Falls . Very visible on east side of Hwy 95. Land purchased by Kootenai County Parks Dept a few years ago. I only climbed there once years ago when it was privately owned--asked landowner and got permission. Not big, can't remember size. 30'? Obviously not destination-worthy if you're not a local. I'm laughing, Sobo, because of your reference to Athol (the Coug-Dawg mention is good, too). That obvious reference aside, you gotta be careful with how you pronounce the name around the natives, at least when you're in the area. Hi Gary. Alas, there's not much waterfall ice to climb around Spokane-CDA. Chilco is the closest little thing on public land, along with one other really small drip near Spokane that's so small and well-known among locals that the ice literally gets bashed out within hours of forming. Makes for good mixed climbing, though. PM or email me and I'll give beta. The general rule for ice around low-elevation Spokane-CDA is the same as for Banks Lk: don't wait, get it while you can. I'd expect the ice to be more on the thin side, but Chilco and Banks should be forming up for some good climbing this weekend. Jason and Alex have done a great job on WA ice, and in particular with Banks. Other essential guides for the Spokane-CDA area climber are Big Sky Ice (MT) and Waterfall Ice (BC, AB). The Missions in MT are about 4 hours away, as is Gibraltar Wall north of Canal Flats, BC. Hyalite near Bozeman is good, too. Banff-Jasper is 6-8 hours. If you're really into it, there's still some exploring and FAs to do on some obscure drips in the greater INW, including on private land where you'd have to be tactful with the owners. Mtn Gear guys are a good resource and are climbing much more ice than me nowadays, as I'm more likely to be found on a winter weekend on my boards. Cheers, Steve Reynolds Quote
sobo Posted November 2, 2003 Posted November 2, 2003 Gary, There, didn't I tell you that pindude would be helpful? Steve, Hadn't heard that Chilco Falls had been purchased. Nice move on the part of Kootenai P&R. Quote
Dane Posted November 3, 2003 Posted November 3, 2003 (edited) On Spokane's west side, Indian Creek canyon 30'. North of CDA 15 minutes, Chilco 30/50', as mentioned and worth the visit when is up for anyone locally. Couple of more hours north, Copper Creek, maybe 130', take a right just a few yards from the Eastport Canadian crossing. The Wizard collection of drips (when it's in) north side of the highway and easily visable, near Clark Fork. 2 decent pitches are possible, may be 200', but less I suspect. Those pretty much cover Northern Idaho water ice unless some one hangs a water hose. Gibraltar Wall (decent 3 and 4 ice) is near Canal Flats BC is the best and most consistant "real" ice to Spokane. Better yet unless things are really, really IN at Banks Lake make the extra drive to Banff and get some climbing done. Makes a long weekend from Spokane but worth every minute since it will be a trade of drive time (for actual ice) or (a 2 hour drive and a slog for something that might or might not be up). Past that, what Steve said already. Edited November 3, 2003 by Dane Quote
pindude Posted November 3, 2003 Posted November 3, 2003 Dane, More succinct than I as usual. I wasn't sure if I should spill the beans on tiny Indian Canyon, but no matter. Copper Falls is certainly worth it, including for stretching legs on a drive for anyone heading up to Banff. For those headed up there first time, beware the top finishing short pitch. You can rap off just below this point, from 50 m up. Of course would require 2 ropes to reach bottom if you don't want to do a V-thread. I've top-roped from here, too. I understand the old shaky pins at this stance have been replaced by 2 nice 3/8" bolts. I've had a few memorable experiences getting off Copper: when still thin there is a pool of water at top (when unfrozen or thin) you have to bypass by tooling on vertical frozen dirt left or overhanging, friable rock on right. The vertical, finishing ice below the frozen or unfrozen pool can be thin also: the water runs over rock and behind the ice making for a potentially wobbly, friable sheet of vertical ice at the top, separate from the rock by a couple feet or so. I one time here opened up a big window to the cascading vertical plunge of water running behind the ice, and had to do the exit left on the dirt thing. It would take away from the adventure and add time, but the pool at top can be investigated by walking around to the top from the left (yes, route is a walk-off if you top out). Thanks for the beta on the Wizard collection. I've never climbed there, but would like to check it out. Gib Wall is definitely worth it as a destination. Cheers, Steve Quote
Jason_Martin Posted November 3, 2003 Posted November 3, 2003 pindude said: Dane, More succinct than I as usual. I wasn't sure if I should spill the beans on tiny Indian Canyon, but no matter. Indian Canyon is in the Washington Ice guide. No real beans to spill... Jason Quote
pindude Posted November 3, 2003 Posted November 3, 2003 Jason, the real beans to spill: I can't read! Got the book right next to me. I passed right by "Spokane" when thumbing thru your guide several times before. Shoulda used the index! I see Indian Canyon is the lone climb listed for Spokane, which it truly is. Glad to see you you at least mention Chilco and Copper in Idaho. Even though your title is "Washington Ice," yes, these 2 Idaho climbs are local for us in NE Washington. Good job on the guide. Quote
southernmtguide Posted November 6, 2003 Author Posted November 6, 2003 Thanks for all the posts and the beta. Received my copy of Washington Ice, and am impressed. Looks like I will have to drive a bit this winter. Went to Indian Canyon yesterday and this morning before work, and did a couple laps. Lots of fun, 5 minutes from the office! Life is good. Anyone that ever needs a partner over there for a lunch session drop me a line. Pindude; Thanks for all your help. By the way, say hi to your dad for me. He worked on my son a bit this summer when he needed a bone marrow biopsy. An outstanding doctor and person. Tell him James still thinks he is okay, even after all the needles he stuck in him! Gary Quote
Lambone Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 If you are in Spokane, I would head to Montana. Check out the Montana Ice guide book. It is week compared to the New Washingto guide, but has some cool photos. Glacier has some massive ice. The mission range has cool stuff too. I believe Ski Sports lives in Missula now and is looking for partners, thats only a few hours from you. Quote
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