erik Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 so i don't know about anyone else...but weekend was great!!!! even though we went to dis-vantage.....we all had a blast.......it snowed it rained, it was 70.....we had it all and no one was really around...i had the great pleasure of finally meeting dan smith....and climbing some stuff i had to yet to do!! plus my shoulder didnt hurt most of the time too!!!!! Quote
Bronco Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 sounds like fun erik, glad yer shoulder is gettin better. ************************************************ anybody else climb anything? Who climbed what? What climbed who? (the snow is starting to stick in Everett this morning) [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: Bronco ] Quote
rayborbon Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 I flailed following Sinsemilla. The best crack I have yet to do out in V. About as good as many granite cracks too. I saw many friends. AlpineK was drinkin and climbing at the feathers. He might still be there. Smelled Dagen's nasty poop. Yuck! Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Ice rock rock rock, drinkbrewpub, sleep, coffee, hike hike, rock rock rock. Quote
jordop Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Did laps on "A Little Testis", the 2nd best 10b crack in Squamish (at that grade its got pretty stiff competition with the pillar!). Too bad it's suffered noticable polish from people trying to smear when they should be jammin damnit! And its only been in existance for about five years. Do it now before it turns into a Flyin Circus yosem style glass crack! Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jordop: Did laps on "A Little Testis", the 2nd best 10b crack in Squamish (at that grade its got pretty stiff competition with the pillar!). Too bad it's suffered noticable polish from people trying to smear when they should be jammin damnit! And its only been in existance for about five years. Do it now before it turns into a Flyin Circus yosem style glass crack! 1) It was polished to begin with. 2) Second best... no way. Ever hear of Apron Strings? Arrowroute? Hand Jive? Caboose? Split Beaver? You forget about those or something??? A Little Testis is a 1-move wonder with an easy start, short crux, and 5 meters of laybacking high up. I mean its good and all, but not real good. [ 03-18-2002: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote
layton Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 A little testis feels like wearing roller-skates while fistin' a horse ready to fall over, but at least you've brought your protection. What about split beaver, hand jive, id, etc... Maybe it's cuz' that was my first climb that morning, but...? Anyway, I'd kill to climb anything right now so I'll shut up and get back to studing for final exams. (2R,3S)-trans-1-(dietherpentyl)-t-butyl-Ihatechemistr-2-ene.PV=shitRT Quote
rayborbon Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Dru and Layton, It's good to hear arguments like this. That way I can find out all the names of good routes. Considering I have been to Squamish once I can tap into this info if wanted. Quote
jordop Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 We should start a new thread arguing about the best 10b at Squampton! Never had a good time on split beav. Yeah hand jive is good (okay awesome!) and i forgot about Caboose which really rocks. Sunblessed is probably pretty good too, but I've always been too lazy to hike that far! Best 10b in the universe? Stone Groove at Reeds, or Sons of Yesterday/Serenity Crack (10a and 10d respectively) Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jordop: We should start a new thread arguing about the best 10b at Squampton! Never had a good time on split beav. Yeah hand jive is good (okay awesome!) and i forgot about Caboose which really rocks. Sunblessed is probably pretty good too, but I've always been too lazy to hike that far! Best 10b in the universe? Stone Groove at Reeds, or Sons of Yesterday/Serenity Crack (10a and 10d respectively) Incredible Hand Crack at Indian Creek?Illusion Dweller at JT? Those are pretty popular too. Quote
rayborbon Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=001841Best 10b crack thread above :-) Quote
jordop Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Did Incredible Hand crack coupla years back with only about 4 pieces (2.5 Friend/2 camalot/7-8 4cam I think) just leap froggin them! Try puttin a hex into a perfect splitter for a good scare! One day I'll be rich enough to climb properly at Indian Creek! Quote
dyno_merchant Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Bronco: anybody else climb anything? Who climbed what? What climbed who?(the snow is starting to stick in Everett this morning) I spent the last ten days in bishop pebble pinching! Climbed at the buttermilks, happys and sads...life is tough! on the crack note...paradise lost at paradise forks in flagstaff, az is fucking rad! Quote
jordop Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 Hey Dyno whats the weather like down there right now? Snow? Quote
dyno_merchant Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jordop: Hey Dyno whats the weather like down there right now? Snow? yep it's snowing- i guess everyone is getting the wet stuff! we only have about an inch but it's been snowing off and on since saturday. when i was at bishop the weather was sketchy also. Quote
Dru Posted March 18, 2002 Posted March 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: yep it's snowing- i guess everyone is getting the wet stuff! we only have about an inch but it's been snowing off and on since saturday. when i was at bishop the weather was sketchy also. Quote
plexus Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 Still nursing sore tips from the volcanic rock down here. Been in the 90s the last week, means early rise for climbing and find shade like every other sensible animal in the afternoon, very much like Utah and JTree in many respects in that way. Led El Pequino Naruz (5.10a) yesterday at Tutla as well as Pies Descalzos (5.8). Got halfway up another climb before the blazing sun made the rock too hot to touch. Hopefully going to get another day in Wednesday before embarking ona four-day journey to Rio Blanco in Veracruz. Quote
carolyn Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 I got myself back out on the ice...some short "city" climbs both friday and sunday. Found a few virgin climbs along the bluffs of the mississippi, 40 degrees, sunny, and eagles soaring overhead. Glad your shoulder is feeling better too erik... my neck and shoulder are still pretty sore, but doing MUCH better!!!! Quote
AlpineK Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 This weekend ruled. Sat: Skied some nice pow on Nason ridge and started drinking about 12:30. We then went back to Rat's house in Nazi-land and waited for our buddys to show up and bring our buddy the bachelor to party. The saturday evening party was kind of lame. The only highlight was the porn vidio staring Dick Nasty. Sun:St. Patty's day, we started the day off right by drinking half a bottle of Irish whiskey and most of a bottle of Tequila. Our friend the guide had his helper scouting out the weather in Vantage. When the reports came back of good weather, we headed out to Vantage and the Feathers. True to Tippy Turtle Club style we spent the afternoon climbing, drinking, and being obnoxious. Later on the way to scout out our camp site I ran into Ray and said hi. Being Sunday night, we had our pick of campsites. Also since there were about 4 tree guy we had a huge pile of firewood. Soon we had a 4' tall pile of wood torching. Evening events included our buddy the guide jumping over the bonfire and twisting his ankle. Rat and I got into an arguement about jackets. I was wearing a Carhart coat my ex boss, the Nazi, gave me and Rat was wearing a North Face coat. We resolved the issue by both burning our jackets on the bonfire. There was some more bonfire jumping in which Gator burned holes in his jacket, and then Gator and Rat drove down the old highway to cross the Columbia in Gator's car. Since they returned in an hour I guess they didn't. Mon:No hangovers, but the weather was cold and getting colder. We got another fire going cooked up some spam, drank some coffee and beer. We left when it started snowing. A fantastic weekend! Tippy Turtle Alpine Group Rules!!!! Quote
salbrecher Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 Skiied Sat, Sun, Mon NW of Lilloet above Tyaughten Lake. Man it was fucking cold! -25 Celcius at night; it's that damn arctic air,it's so cold right now. Made for some great freshies though. Quote
chris_w Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 Saturday I was at Red Rocks try to warm up. Low 20's at night time. We headed to the first Pullout and waited for the sun to hit the rocks and warm it up. I think we were up the hill from the panty wall and did a 10c face climb, 10a face and a nice easy 5.6 arete. Then down to the lower wall were there was a crowd. Watched this storm roll in over the valley and left once the big white flakes started coming down. So it off to the strip and free drinks and the buffet's. Sun.Long lines at the airport. Almost didn't make my flight. The cute check-in girl gave me a pass to skip the lines at the metal detectors. Once again I was the last person on the plane (it's becoming a habit). Watched the last of the rocks out the window. Till next year Quote
Dru Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 have you ever noticed that no one refers to moderate sport climbs by name, only by grade? Quote
rr666 Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: have you ever noticed that no one refers to moderate sport climbs by name, only by grade? You mean to tell me that sport climbs actually have names Quote
glacier_dup1 Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 Smith was out of condition, so went sport-skiing at Bachlor. Did a Blue, a Black, a Black, a Blue, a Black, a Blue, a Black, a Black... Quote
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