Cpt.Caveman Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 A nice looking one. My guess is he walked in. Where is the line he did? Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 I heard that it's somewhere in the Nuits and they heli-ed in, but that's second-hand info I heard from one of Colin's classmates. Quote
wayne Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 After talking to him. it seems he soloed it. They had concerns about rockfall. Quote
Dru Posted October 3, 2003 Author Posted October 3, 2003 Flew in Rock fall Serl and Daylward declined to send. Colin soloed. Walked out. N face of Blackhorn. But hey maybe Don or Colin or Dan will write an actual TR! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 The photo is obviously Phils and very nice Sounds like it was a fun trip for Colin but not the rest of the folks. Did the other two climb something else Niut Range is pretty close to the helo pad. This peak is viewable from the road and stands out nicely near Whitesaddle Mountain which is also the name which the Whitesaddle Air is derived from. The same company that flies most folks into the Waddington Range etc. There is still some untravelled terrain up in the Niuts. A nice place with no crowds. Rock can be of variable quality from my experiences and some mountains have only been climbed less than a handful of times.... Most of the mountains are less than 9500 feet in elevation. Razorback Mountain has some incredible ice routes as well as Ottarasko.. I believe the face on the right mountain in this photo is still unclimbed. Tell me if I am wrong dru. There is a Merrand\Diedrich route on the left hand mountain's face if I recall correctly. Good work Colin. Quote
Dru Posted October 3, 2003 Author Posted October 3, 2003 ray i dunno cause the Heathens were in on Pagoda while Kurt and I were at QB. maybe they sent some radness. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 Dru said: ray i dunno cause the Heathens were in on Pagoda while Kurt and I were at QB. maybe they sent some radness. Who were the heathens? Them dudes I was drinking liquor with? Quote
Dru Posted October 3, 2003 Author Posted October 3, 2003 "The Heathens" are a bunch of climber type guys from Campbell River. Quote
Colin Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 Hey guys, sorry I haven't posted a TR. I was figuring I'd just send something into the CAJ, since this seemed pretty out of the scope of cc.com, but hey, what the heck: Dan and I left Seattle Thursday evening, and met up with Don in Abbotsford. We ended up driving all the way to Bluff Lake that night, and at 4:30 am went to bed in the helicopter hangar. We spent pretty much all of Friday hanging around Whitesaddle Air Services because Mike (King) was off buying some window panes in Williams Lake. We finally flew in around 6:30 pm and constructed some sort of a tent platform out of the scree. We woke up at 4 am on Saturday and lay in the tent debating the rockfall hazard in the couloir. Don and Dan felt that it was too hazardous, and so I headed off with just tools, crampons, and helmet. The initial snow-cone at the bottom of the couloir went quickly, as did the first 300 ft of the couloir, because I was able to stay on neve. From that point the entire remainder of the couloir was hard, brittle, dinner-plating ice. It wasn't hard from a technical standpoint (60 degrees at most), but was extremely tiring on my calves, and I had to swing 2-3 times for each placement. It was a difficult balance trying to move fast to minimize rockfall danger while still making sure that every placement was bomber. I turned off my headlamp about 2/3 of the way up the couloir, and soon enough had reached the North Ridge. The final 200 ft. of the North Ridge was 3-4th class, with a little bit of "fresh" snow. I descended the South Side of the North Ridge for a long ways of 3rd class (put my crampons back on for two sections), and then finally spotted Dan and Don below me on the ridge. They advised me on which way to head down, and I advised them that continuing up the North Ridge wouldn't make for a very fun climb. We soon met back up at camp and began the long hike out of Whitesaddle Creek. We made the first 2/3 of the hike out that day, and then finished the rest on Sunday. It wasn't TOO bad of a thrash, but if you hiked in that way you'd be fairly haggard by the time you got to Blackhorn. It was a great trip, and my first in the awesome Coast Range. Thanks so much to Don for organizing it, and with putting up with my constant questions about the range. Quote
Lambone Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 this seemed pretty out of the scope of cc.com ummm what does that mean? are you too cool for us now colin? Don't forget your roots...we may not be worthy, but we are people too... nice climb dude Quote
Colin Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 "ummm what does that mean? are you too cool for us now colin? Don't forget your roots...we may not be worthy, but we are people too... nice climb dude " Haha, very funny, Lambone... I meant geographically. I know there is a B.C. forum, but I generally think of that more as Squamish, Cheam Area, Chilliwack Group, Maybe up to the Anderson River Peaks, etc. Oh, and look up the posts back in 2000 to see all the dumb questions I was asking! Don't forget my roots? You mean mycelium? Quote
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