sk Posted September 25, 2003 Author Posted September 25, 2003 COOL thanks everyone I have some great ideas and will be picking up a new book, or my climbing partner will at any rate  Kisses Muffin Quote
slothrop Posted September 25, 2003 Posted September 25, 2003 jkrueger said: Revelations. Bring a small stopper (#6?) if you want to ease the runout to the first bolt. Quote
russ Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 slothrop said: jkrueger said: Revelations. Bring a small stopper (#6?) if you want to ease the runout to the first bolt. Â Nah, that's to far to carry it. Quote
skyclimb Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 Revelations Nice climbs on the rope-de dope block. Shamu, and right arete. spiderman arete on westside bunny face the peanut good two pitch, 5.9, then 5.7/6 forget the name DANCER Hop-on Pop I will be there this weekend. Friday night...sunday, grasslands Quote
dkemp Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 I visited Smith last weekend for the first time. It took us a couple days to figure the place out. Here's my two cents:  The main climbing area, Dihedrals, etc., are too damn hot by mid-morning and will stay too hot until mid-or late-afternoon. If you want Ginger Snaps or Cinnimon Slabs, be there by 6 or 7am-ish then get the heck outa there. Go back at 4pm.  On the third day we did Spiderman - really nice, I liked it - stepping around that roof was, as the guidebook says, exciting. We were at the parking lot at 8am, and walked over Asterisk Pass directly to Spiderman. At the top by 10:30. This place starts gettting in the sun by 11am or so and will be unpleasantly hot after that. Not a lot of moderate stuff on the backside - some but not lots.  We found that the Red Wall area came into shade by 1:00pm or so - a great early afternoon destination. We found a 5.8 crack (uh, Moscow?) whose first pitch led practically to the chains of a .10b (um, dang, cant remember the name of that one - Face It perhaps?), anyway really nice climbing. Early afternoon - Red Wall rocks.  Rope de Dope has some nice looking moderate stuff - I led a 5.6 there - and its shaded. Its also crammed with classes and otherwise beginners (like me).  I gotta go back and have another look around. Its a beautiful place with lots of options but honestly I didnt find a lot of easy or moderate stuff. Seems kinda hard. The guidebook shows most all the .6's, .7's and .8's have a R or X after the rating.  BTW, Grasslands was good for (free) camping. Dont fall asleep too quick - you'll miss the sounds of coyotes yelping and howling, and the elk bugling - nice.  Dox  Quote
gapertimmy Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 we should have a mini pub club saturday night this weekend, who all is going to be there... me, muffy, becky, cletus....? Quote
b-rock Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 dkemp said: The guidebook shows most all the .6's, .7's and .8's have a R or X after the rating. Â I've found many of these have been retrobolted and lose that R (arete next to the first pitch of Spiderman for example). Quote
jkrueger Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 slothrop said: jkrueger said: Revelations. Bring a small stopper (#6?) if you want to ease the runout to the first bolt. Ease the runout -- where's the fun in that? Â I think it's called Revelations because on your way to that first bolt you find out whether or not you are truly a 5.9 Smith leader. If so, you're ready to move on. A testpiece of sorts, one might say. Â Conveniently, once at the top of Revelations you can set a TR for Irreverence (10a). Quote
sk Posted September 26, 2003 Author Posted September 26, 2003 gapertimmy said: we should have a mini pub club saturday night this weekend, who all is going to be there... me, muffy, becky, cletus....? I will check with Mustang Sally and see if she is up for that... she generaly doesn't like crowds Quote
sk Posted September 26, 2003 Author Posted September 26, 2003 no pubbing for me this weekend.... Â sistas befor mistas Quote
Sphinx Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 Isn't it "bro's before ho's"? Â Have fun at Smiffy! Quote
sk Posted September 26, 2003 Author Posted September 26, 2003 Sphinx said: Isn't it "bro's before ho's"?  Have fun at Smiffy!    if I were a boy maybe  Quote
Norsky Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 Check out the former stomping grounds of DFA...smithrock.com. They have a fairly good selection of route topos online. Quote
Norsky Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 matt_warfield said: RuMR: Don't you mean "right" of Karate Crack? If so, you are probably talking about a second pitch to Cinammon Slab, of which there are several options. Â Yeah, I wouldn't call Latest Rage a good moderate. Have you seen anyone whip on the crux!!! There's nothing mellow about this sport route all you alpinists. Quote
rbw1966 Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 True dat! Â I may be at Smith this weekend. Quote
gapertimmy Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 sheat lets get some brews after saturday yallz! who's down? rbw, skyclimb? Quote
rbw1966 Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 (edited) Looks like I gotta stay closer to home. I'll be at Frenchs tomorrow. Edited September 26, 2003 by rbw1966 Quote
iain Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 jkrueger said:...on your way to that first bolt you find out whether or not you are truly a 5.9 Smith leader. If so, you're ready to move on. A testpiece of sorts, one might say. perhaps, if the climbing to the first bolt was actually 5.9 gets your attention, anyway. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 rbw1966 said: Looks like I gotta stay closer to home. I'll be at Frenchs tomorrow. Â See you there, schmucko. Â Quote
marylou Posted September 28, 2003 Posted September 28, 2003 Shoot, I just saw this, and you are already there at Smif. Â From my vantage point nursing my fall cold-addled body back to health, let me add "Pop Goes the Nubbin" to your to-do list for Smith. It's on the Peanut, rated .10a, but it is not really .10a or I wouldn't have been able to lead it. I'd call it 5.8d. Classic Smith moderate, if you can wade through the crowds and get a rope on it. Quote
sk Posted September 29, 2003 Author Posted September 29, 2003 Timm@y, Â Thank You Thank You THANK YOU Â Mustang Sally and I had THE BEST TIME with you and becky and cletus too !!!!! Â YOU Â Quote
gapertimmy Posted September 29, 2003 Posted September 29, 2003 Muffy and Mustang! Â you can be my rope gun any day! Quote
sk Posted September 29, 2003 Author Posted September 29, 2003 gapertimmy said: Muffy and Mustang! Â you can be my rope gun any day! ya but only if you finsh the routes I get scetched on Quote
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