bunglehead Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 Anybody? I have a pair of 5.10 Mocasyms, but they didn't last very long! Any other good edging shoes that people use and like? Quote
Sphinx Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 Ace. If you want tight sport shoes, Miura. Or Ascent. Quote
lummox Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 my salomon mountain guide boots edge like a mother fucker. especially with sabretooth crampons stuck on. but they suck on slabby friction. kina heavy too. Quote
rbw1966 Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 I'll sell my moccasyms. I hate them. I wear a 10 Quote
RuMR Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 Best edging shoe, hands down is the pink velcro anazasi...better than stiffened models cuz u can still feel whats going on and better than the velcro version cuz its a bit beefier...good crack shoe too... Quote
RuMR Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 Sphinx said: Ace. If you want tight sport shoes, Miura. Or Ascent. Â Ascent-->sport shoe Quote
bunglehead Posted September 17, 2003 Author Posted September 17, 2003 Eehhhhh, maybe I should be more clear. I have the Aces, and I love em, (I also hate my Mocasysms) but I'm looking for more of a Bouldering/sport/Damn I look great in Lycra kind of a shoe. (ok, only the first two ) Quote
Sphinx Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 RuMR said: Sphinx said: Ace. If you want tight sport shoes, Miura. Or Ascent. Â Ascent-->sport shoe No, no, no, you horny jackass. I ment the Miura as a sport shoe, the Ascent as an edging shoe. Dumbass. Quote
Sphinx Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 Anasazi Mesa if they fit. Anasazi Laceup if they fit. What's wrong with da Ace? Quote
RuMR Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 LACEUPS...bag those mesas...TOO stiff... Â the laceups are better at cracks than the ace anyway... Quote
bunglehead Posted September 17, 2003 Author Posted September 17, 2003 Sphinx said: Anasazi Mesa if they fit. Anasazi Laceup if they fit. What's wrong with da Ace? Â Nothing's wrong with my Aces, Fuck I'm on my third pair! FUCK! I just want something a smidge more sensitive for feeling out the thin footholds. My Aces DOMINATE for crack climbing, and they're even good face shoes. I'm just looking for something a little diffrerent, ya know? I mean I play my acoustic sometimes, and I play my electric sometimes. So lace ups, then? Quote
Dru Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 scarpa inferno if you have narrow feet. have a pair of usa size 9's i will sell you if interested, too narrow for my feet, worn twice. Quote
RuMR Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 Bunglehead...try the pink anazasis...they are hands-down THE BEST SHOE OUT THERE, don't stretch (so no need to get them crushingly tight), are essentially plastic (so you can throw them in the washing machine-->no stink)...the nose kicks ass in pockets and thin cracks and nothing is better on technical face...they are ok at really really steep stuff too (we don't have much of that around here, but i mentioned it anyway)...only caveat, they have to fit your foot... Â I've put 5 resoles on a pair... Quote
erik Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 fit is the most important aspect of a shoe, so make sure you find one that fits right. sportiva cobra's are a decent sliiper that edges decent. Â Â Quote
RuMR Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 stretches too fast...his post was rippin' the mocc's for that...i think he's thinking a shoe as opposed to a slipper... Quote
bunglehead Posted September 17, 2003 Author Posted September 17, 2003 rbw1966 said: I'll sell my moccasyms. I hate them. I wear a 10 Â So If I didn't like my Mocasyms, will I like the Anasazis? I don't know if 5.10 has similar cuts for all their shoes or not.... Quote
erik Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 RuMR said: stretches too fast...his post was rippin' the mocc's for that...i think he's thinking a shoe as opposed to a slipper... Â really? have had for a year without any stretching issues personally. tho i did not fit them death tight. Â really good edging shoe and the best one any shoe company has ever made is the sportiva syncro. i cried when i found out they do not make them anymore!!! and i will be sad when mine die! Â Â Quote
RuMR Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 Erik...have you tried anazasis?? They are the shit for technical face (read: Smith)...felt as powerful as synchros and a hell of lot more sensitive...better nose for pockets too... Â Bunglehead...depends on your foot...it seemed that the moccasyms fit a little wider foot than the pinks do...what was your main problem w/ the mocc's?? Quote
erik Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 kinda leary about 5.10's in general as their quality control sucks!! but have always been interested in the lace ups. tho slab and alpine? and i mean like walking in them kinda alpine at times...no the wa pass variety! Â hook a brutha up! Â Â Quote
RuMR Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 I'll see what i can do...they are more of a cragging shoe...don't think i'd tramp around in them too much... Â 5.10 is getting their quality control back...they are now building their own shoes... Â For some reason, ALL of my fivetens have held up really well...i do have friends though, that destroy theirs very quickly...guess i'm careful w/ them...as i've said, Ramuta has been able to go 3 to 5 resoles on them w/o complaining... Quote
erik Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 yeah well i prolly wouldnt walk in them...just a thought really. i've had mocs, which i liked cept for wearing out real quick like, and the ascents, which are decent shoes for walking around in. Â better quality control is always a + Â Â Quote
bunglehead Posted September 17, 2003 Author Posted September 17, 2003 RuMR said: Erik...have you tried anazasis?? They are the shit for technical face (read: Smith)...felt as powerful as synchros and a hell of lot more sensitive...better nose for pockets too... Â Bunglehead...depends on your foot...it seemed that the moccasyms fit a little wider foot than the pinks do...what was your main problem w/ the mocc's?? Â Believe it or not, They were just not quite wide enough, and I wore through the bottom below my big toe in like 4 months. They also made my heels hurt, But I fit them painfully tight. You know, entertaining to watch me put them on tight. But yeah, you guys are getting me. Hard tuff and bouldery kind of footwork. Hmmm...come to think of it that's how I wore out my Mocasyms... Quote
RuMR Posted September 17, 2003 Posted September 17, 2003 I think it would be worthwhile to check them out...Redpoint at smith carries them... Â FWIW...You do not need to fit these super tight at all...no dead space is all you need (toes don't even need to be downturned)...don't fret the heel...it feels funky but works well... Â They are fairly cheap at telemark-pyrenees as well...you won't be disappointed if they fit... Quote
Zimm Posted September 20, 2003 Posted September 20, 2003 Check out the new Anasazi Southwests. They have a dime edge platform that is EXCELLENT. Id give them a shot if edging is what you want. Quote
snoboy Posted September 20, 2003 Posted September 20, 2003 RuMR said:5.10 is getting their quality control back...they are now building their own shoes... Â I think if you look a little closer, you will see that's only sort of true. They are having the uppers made overseas, and then gluing the rubber on in the US. Â Their quality is improving, but it's still not perfect. Quote
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