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Good edging shoes?


bunglehead

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Sphinx said:

Anasazi Mesa if they fit. Anasazi Laceup if they fit. What's wrong with da Ace?

 

Nothing's wrong with my Aces, Fuck I'm on my third pair! FUCK!

I just want something a smidge more sensitive for feeling out the thin footholds. My Aces DOMINATE for crack climbing, and they're even good face shoes. I'm just looking for something a little diffrerent, ya know? I mean I play my acoustic sometimes, and I play my electric sometimes. So lace ups, then?

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Bunglehead...try the pink anazasis...they are hands-down THE BEST SHOE OUT THERE, don't stretch (so no need to get them crushingly tight), are essentially plastic (so you can throw them in the washing machine-->no stink)...the nose kicks ass in pockets and thin cracks and nothing is better on technical face...they are ok at really really steep stuff too (we don't have much of that around here, but i mentioned it anyway)...only caveat, they have to fit your foot...

 

I've put 5 resoles on a pair...

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RuMR said:

stretches too fast...his post was rippin' the mocc's for that...i think he's thinking a shoe as opposed to a slipper...

 

really? have had for a year without any stretching issues personally. tho i did not fit them death tight.

 

really good edging shoe and the best one any shoe company has ever made is the sportiva syncro. i cried when i found out they do not make them anymore!!! cry.gif and i will be sad when mine die!

 

 

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Erik...have you tried anazasis?? They are the shit for technical face (read: Smith)...felt as powerful as synchros and a hell of lot more sensitive...better nose for pockets too...

 

Bunglehead...depends on your foot...it seemed that the moccasyms fit a little wider foot than the pinks do...what was your main problem w/ the mocc's??

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I'll see what i can do...they are more of a cragging shoe...don't think i'd tramp around in them too much...

 

5.10 is getting their quality control back...they are now building their own shoes...

 

For some reason, ALL of my fivetens have held up really well...i do have friends though, that destroy theirs very quickly...guess i'm careful w/ them...as i've said, Ramuta has been able to go 3 to 5 resoles on them w/o complaining...

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RuMR said:

Erik...have you tried anazasis?? They are the shit for technical face (read: Smith)...felt as powerful as synchros and a hell of lot more sensitive...better nose for pockets too...

 

Bunglehead...depends on your foot...it seemed that the moccasyms fit a little wider foot than the pinks do...what was your main problem w/ the mocc's??

 

Believe it or not, They were just not quite wide enough, and I wore through the bottom below my big toe in like 4 months. They also made my heels hurt, But I fit them painfully tight. You know, entertaining to watch me put them on tight. But yeah, you guys are getting me. Hard tuff and bouldery kind of footwork. Hmmm...come to think of it that's how I wore out my Mocasyms... wazzup.gif

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I think it would be worthwhile to check them out...Redpoint at smith carries them...

 

FWIW...You do not need to fit these super tight at all...no dead space is all you need (toes don't even need to be downturned)...don't fret the heel...it feels funky but works well...

 

They are fairly cheap at telemark-pyrenees as well...you won't be disappointed if they fit...

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RuMR said:5.10 is getting their quality control back...they are now building their own shoes...

 

I think if you look a little closer, you will see that's only sort of true. They are having the uppers made overseas, and then gluing the rubber on in the US.

 

Their quality is improving, but it's still not perfect. hellno3d.gif

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