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mellsbells

First trad climb

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cinammon slab, smith rocks, 5.7?

It's a great first trad lead. Consistent ramp for feet in a left facing corner. Takes gear like mad.

 

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an excellent 1st trad lead at smith would be the 1st pitch of spiderman buttress or the short crack to the right of it.

both are like 5.5 or 5.6 but so good.

 

 

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erik said:

an excellent 1st trad lead at smith would be the 1st pitch of spiderman buttress or the short crack to the right of it.

both are like 5.5 or 5.6 but so good.

 

 

the crack to the right of spiderman is an excellent choice. it's short and takes gear well. i've spent the summer trying to get my head back in order to lead after a fall. that crack was a perfect one for me. thumbs_up.gif

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WELL THEN......

 

OVER AT THE SUTDENT WALL ON THE E SIDE OF THE GORGE HAS SEVERAL MODERATES THAT ARE BLOCKY AND ALLOW FOR MANY PRO CHOICES AS WELL.

 

 

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iain said:

cinnamon slab is the worst climb at smith.

 

This is utter bullshit. Its a great climb for a beginning trad leader. Solid and a great confidence inspirer. Finish it off by doing the second pitch as well. The only down side--and perhaps what Iain is alluding to, is that it is often crowded.

 

Lots of easy climbs nearby.

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cinnamon slab is about thirty people deep everytime I go there, so I think I would want something with a little less 'exposure' if you get my drift..Is student wall very crowded? What routes are good on it?

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The student wall is not terribly crowded if there is not a group over there (easy to see before you go over there). Some people find the grades a bit stiffer than the main area, probably mainly because it is a different kind of climbing. More of a full-body basalt workout than the usual nubbin-pulling slabs. They are short.

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lyco is not necessarily a really "fun" climb but it is nice and forgiving when it comes to nut placements. The crack to the right is similar, maybe easier but a little less-traveled.

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Go do Moscow. Fun climb, and there's not a bolt anywhere near it. (do the direct "variation" as it eats gear and is more fun than the sideways option) Don't know if it's a good first trad lead, though. But it is a fun climb. The views are nice.

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lyco..... is a good trad climb. it's a corner crack and will take as much gear as you own. Anchors at the top to rap off of.

 

At smith also consider super slab by the red wall area. It's 3 pitches (5.6). Only downside I can think of for a new leader is the second pitch, though easy (5.0-5.2) is a slab traverse, with minimal placement opportunities. You could always rap after the first pitch though.

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Moscow would require the construction of an anchor w/o supervision. Dunno if that's a concern for you.

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