mellsbells Posted September 10, 2003 Posted September 10, 2003 Is there any route at broughton that would be a good solid first trad climb, 5.6? Or even at Rocky Butte? Quote
Thrashador Posted September 10, 2003 Posted September 10, 2003 What about 'edges and ledges' at Broughton??? Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 10, 2003 Posted September 10, 2003 Â cinammon slab, smith rocks, 5.7? It's a great first trad lead. Consistent ramp for feet in a left facing corner. Takes gear like mad. Â You might also check out this Thread Quote
mellsbells Posted September 30, 2003 Author Posted September 30, 2003 Thank you! I will be at Smith Rock this weekend. I am sure I can find something to get up. Quote
iain Posted September 30, 2003 Posted September 30, 2003 cinnamon slab is the worst climb at smith. Quote
erik Posted September 30, 2003 Posted September 30, 2003 an excellent 1st trad lead at smith would be the 1st pitch of spiderman buttress or the short crack to the right of it. both are like 5.5 or 5.6 but so good. Â Â Quote
minx Posted September 30, 2003 Posted September 30, 2003 erik said: an excellent 1st trad lead at smith would be the 1st pitch of spiderman buttress or the short crack to the right of it. both are like 5.5 or 5.6 but so good. Â Â the crack to the right of spiderman is an excellent choice. it's short and takes gear well. i've spent the summer trying to get my head back in order to lead after a fall. that crack was a perfect one for me. Quote
iain Posted September 30, 2003 Posted September 30, 2003 'cept if you fall on it and become a human crayon Quote
erik Posted September 30, 2003 Posted September 30, 2003 WELL THEN...... Â OVER AT THE SUTDENT WALL ON THE E SIDE OF THE GORGE HAS SEVERAL MODERATES THAT ARE BLOCKY AND ALLOW FOR MANY PRO CHOICES AS WELL. Â Â Quote
iain Posted September 30, 2003 Posted September 30, 2003 that lycopodophyta thing is a pretty good, forgiving, nut-setting lesson Quote
rbw1966 Posted September 30, 2003 Posted September 30, 2003 iain said: cinnamon slab is the worst climb at smith. Â This is utter bullshit. Its a great climb for a beginning trad leader. Solid and a great confidence inspirer. Finish it off by doing the second pitch as well. The only down side--and perhaps what Iain is alluding to, is that it is often crowded. Â Lots of easy climbs nearby. Quote
Figger_Eight Posted September 30, 2003 Posted September 30, 2003 iain said: 'cept if you fall on it and become a human crayon  You pretty much have to jump off backwards to fall on it Quote
mellsbells Posted October 14, 2003 Author Posted October 14, 2003 lycopodophyta, sounds complicated. Isn't that over by helium woman? Quote
mellsbells Posted October 14, 2003 Author Posted October 14, 2003 cinnamon slab is about thirty people deep everytime I go there, so I think I would want something with a little less 'exposure' if you get my drift..Is student wall very crowded? What routes are good on it? Quote
mellsbells Posted October 14, 2003 Author Posted October 14, 2003 so is lycopodophyta really a good trad climb? I thought they were all bolted on that area? Quote
iain Posted October 14, 2003 Posted October 14, 2003 The student wall is not terribly crowded if there is not a group over there (easy to see before you go over there). Some people find the grades a bit stiffer than the main area, probably mainly because it is a different kind of climbing. More of a full-body basalt workout than the usual nubbin-pulling slabs. They are short. Quote
iain Posted October 14, 2003 Posted October 14, 2003 lyco is not necessarily a really "fun" climb but it is nice and forgiving when it comes to nut placements. The crack to the right is similar, maybe easier but a little less-traveled. Quote
bunglehead Posted October 14, 2003 Posted October 14, 2003 Go do Moscow. Fun climb, and there's not a bolt anywhere near it. (do the direct "variation" as it eats gear and is more fun than the sideways option) Don't know if it's a good first trad lead, though. But it is a fun climb. The views are nice. Quote
jja Posted October 14, 2003 Posted October 14, 2003 lyco..... is a good trad climb. it's a corner crack and will take as much gear as you own. Anchors at the top to rap off of. Â At smith also consider super slab by the red wall area. It's 3 pitches (5.6). Only downside I can think of for a new leader is the second pitch, though easy (5.0-5.2) is a slab traverse, with minimal placement opportunities. You could always rap after the first pitch though. Quote
iain Posted October 14, 2003 Posted October 14, 2003 Moscow would require the construction of an anchor w/o supervision. Dunno if that's a concern for you. Quote
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