leejams Posted September 2, 2003 Posted September 2, 2003 Thinker and myself went out there (3 o'clock rock) on Sunday to do something and ended up doing total soul. I expected to get cooked hanging on that slab all day but not so. I expected it to be a bit crowded, but not so. Saw 1 person the whole day and that was when we were up on pitch #5. Only 1 car besides our's and Utah plates . Highlights, took a small whipper low and pitch#2 to set my shit straight for the rest of the trip. Was leary about that overhang by "batman bush" ( I so suck at overhangs) but not to bad. Top of pitch 5 is that daddy ledge and a great rest break to get relief from all the hanging belays. Looking towards the north we noticed a huge mushroom cloud which wasn't there 30 minutes prior??? What was up with that. Short 5.10b pitches at the top were interesting and fun fun fun. Great day, partner, and at the end for a weekend. and of course whoever put up that new hardware (mattp?) you deserve a medal. Much appreciated Quote
Peter_Puget Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 Total Soul is a fun route but the whole time I was on it I kept wondering about the bolts off to the right. That route looks even better! Has anyone been on it? It joins TS at the top of the 4th pitch. Bad Anchor Warning: The route to the left of the start of TS (on the S Buttress) with a bunch of bolts is super groovy but the anchor sucks! Unless you were replacing it, I wouldn’t climb the route. But the two routes to the left (NW Passage? And ?) were really fun. Esp the right hand route. Their bolts are worth upgrading from 1/4". Not to continue to flog a dead horse but if there was a ROCK CLIMBING FORUM Darrington threads would be all located in one forum. PP Quote
leejams Posted September 3, 2003 Author Posted September 3, 2003 You are probably thinkin about silent running to the right but I don't think it joins total soul. That is if the topo is correct, it goes by itself up to 7 pitches. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 Leejams – I do not believe I was looking at Silent Running. This route was very close to TS and joined it via a 3(?) bolt traverse. I could be wrong about where it joins TS. Where's Mattp when you need him?!?!?! PP Quote
leejams Posted September 3, 2003 Author Posted September 3, 2003 Hey maybe there is a secret rte between them? I saw mostly new hardware and possibly someone put up a new rte while they were at it. Quote
mattp Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 There are two routes between Total Soul and Silent Running, "Revolver" and "Penny Lane." I don't remember which is which. I believe both are 5.10, and the one next to Total Soul is pretty much a new line whereas at least part of the one farther right has been there for several years but has recently seen old hardware replaced with new. There is also the old route "Bushy Galore," up an intermitten dihedral system fully of bushes, for the 5.7-X bush puller. Quote
babnik Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 "Bushy Galore," up an intermitten dihedral system fully of bushes, for the 5.7-X bush puller. damn! that sounds sweet! anyone wanna hit that up? PM me! Quote
leejams Posted September 4, 2003 Author Posted September 4, 2003 Okay good call peter puget, I was just going by the topo off the website. Hmmmm is there a guide book that we don't know about. Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 Gary_Yngve said: Is it smoky up in Darrington now? Nope. Quote
ctuller Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 leejams said: Hmmmm is there a guide book that we don't know about. Yeah. I think it's called Mattp's head. It's a little tough to photocopy tho. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 davewhitelaw has somethin in the works...cdrom version. Is that thing done yet? Quote
mattp Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 Just last night he told me it was going to come out in October. Quote
Jopa Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 mattp said: Just last night he told me it was going to come out in October. Is that going to be the cd version as originally planned, or is it coming out in book form? Quote
Thinker Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Leejams – I do not believe I was looking at Silent Running. This route was very close to TS and joined it via a 3(?) bolt traverse. I could be wrong about where it joins TS. Where's Mattp when you need him?!?!?! PP I was scoping that route, too. It does appear to join TS at the top of the 4th pitch. ....looks GROOVY BABY! LeeJams gunned the 10b leads for us that day as my lead head was just not working very well on those pitches. Whitelaw has been promising that guidebook for so long now that it will soon reach mythical status. Quote
Smoker Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 mattp said: There are two routes between Total Soul and Silent Running, "Revolver" and "Penny Lane." I don't remember which is which. I believe both are 5.10, and the one next to Total Soul is pretty much a new line whereas at least part of the one farther right has been there for several years but has recently seen old hardware replaced with new. There is also the old route "Bushy Galore," up an intermitten dihedral system fully of bushes, for the 5.7-X bush puller. Thanks for the info on the 2 rts between SR and TS Matt. I have been on Bushy Galore, it is as advertised The start was bitchen hard for 5.7 (it was wet though) and then it continued with lots of needles higher...I think we did about 4 pitches before it blanked out into a sea of granite...no gear or bolts too be seen...ran into SEF that day. What happened to Steve? Quote
dbb Posted September 4, 2003 Posted September 4, 2003 The guide, the guide, the guide.. if it weren't summer it would've been out months ago! Seriously though, it is about 98% complete. It will be published on a CD and be usable by both PCs and MACs. There will also be a PDF version of the entire guide on the CD so that you can print it out. Good for carrying to the crags and good for those that don't want to look at a computer. Rock on! Quote
huezang Posted December 14, 2014 Posted December 14, 2014 and pitch#2 to set my shit straight for the rest of the trip. Was leary about that overhang by "batman bush" ( I so suck at overhangs) but not to bad. Top of pitch 5 is that daddy ledge and a great rest break to get relief from all the hanging belays. Looking towards the north we noticed a hug Quote
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