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thelawgoddess

lover's leap

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okay, i've had a few of you suggest this spot to me. i'm thinking of hitting it up on my way to yos. i don't have a guidebook and have only found some limited info on the web, so i'm asking those of you who know what the scoop is. (if you want to share. grin.gif) what "must" be climbed? where's best to camp (for free)? is it easy to hook up with partners there? anything else? t-i-a!

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YOU CAN CAMP AT THE CRAG FOR FREE WITH WATER AND TOILETS. THO THERE ARE LIMITED SPACES. AFTER THAT I DUNNO GO SERVICE ROAD CAMP.

 

TRAVLERS BUTTRESS

SURREALISTIC PILLAR AND THE DIRECT

HOSPITAL CORNER

THE LINE

BEARS REACH

CORRUGATION CORNER ONE OF THE RADDEST ROUTES THERE!

 

THERE IS GOOD BOLDERING THERE AS WELL

 

SOME OF THE ROUTES ON THE E SALB?? ARE KINDA RUNOUT WITH SOME INJURY POTENTIAL

 

I THINK ALL THE ROUTES THERE ARE KEWL!

 

NOT MUCH OF A SCENE IN STRAWBERRY....

 

 

 

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TLG - I have 3 guidebooks to the area (although a couple are from 1995 so won't have all the routes). If there's a way to get one to you let me know. There are some great classics to climb. Traveler's Buttress, The Line, Bear's Reach, Haystack Crack, Psychadelic Tree...there are so many good lines there.

 

There is free camping about 1/4 mile from the cliff. Go to the "town" of Strawberry on hwy 50. Take the road on the east side of the Strawberry lodge to the end. Park in a spot and walk around to see what campsites are available. All sites are walk-in, have a picnic table, BBQ, and a flat spot for your tent. And it is free!

 

Erik's right about the scene. Just some locals and tourists at the bar in the lodge. But ask for a guy named Petch. He bartends there. He's a friend of a friend and has been a local for years. He can probably hook you up with route info and maybe partners.

Edited by ehmmic

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I was just there about a month ago, and I have to say that it is a fantastic area. I met a guy who recently started a guiding company, and is the bartender accross the street. His name is Petch, and you've just reminded me that I owe him some pictures.

 

At any rate, this is his website:

http://www.loversleap.net/ He might be able to connect you to some partners. I met a few other people there, one guy who was looking for partners, so you might luck out on just going and finding people.

 

Petch has done a fair amount of development in the area, and is probably your best bet for good beta. Petch's partner climbs with a proslethic (sp?) leg, and I was incredibly impressed.

 

We just took a day trip from SF, but it would have been really nice to stay the weekend. The horizontal dikes in the rock are really trippy. There's a ton of good climbing, and a beautiful hand crack called the Line that I think goes at 10a. You might be able to make it out in this picture. This is the East Wall and there are a number of good routes up it; three full pitches to the top. It's pretty vertical.

 

It's on the way to Tahoe, and about 3 hours from SF. Not a lot of facilities in the near vicinity, but a very nice (free) camp ground.

 

I say it's an area you need to go to.

5a1a5596b6aa2_228467-LoversLeap.jpg.5408bee4477dfe19f0e5e15951f49dbc.jpg

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Eden said:

I There's a ton of good climbing, and a beautiful hand crack called the Line that I think goes at 10a. You might be able to make it out in this picture. This is the East Wall and there are a number of good routes up it; three full pitches to the top. It's pretty vertical.

 

 

Let me see if I can get the picture to actually show up.

5a1a5596ba294_228475-LoversLeap.jpg.d6e76433e08c65bf444352263cfa8fc5.jpg

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eden

 

the line is .9 that is the traditional rating dont try to all falcon guide the ratings there.

 

 

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Coopah said:

In my search for info on Tuolomne Meadows I stumbled upon this site. http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/loversleap.html

Some route beta is free the others are downloadable for a modest fee. thumbs_up.gif

 

super tacos are shite...utter complete shite.....

 

they steal the adventure from climbing.

 

.8 move here, use bd cam jr .5 here, next placement 7ft higher to the right 6" is a #9 wc stopper....come on!! what a joke!

 

 

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I think super-tacos often scare people out of doing stuff they otherwise would do, especially in the valley.

 

I'd love to see what the super-topo looks like for DNB, bwahaha.

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DEATH TO SUPERTACO!!!!!!!

 

Next thing you know the Supertaco v2.0 will include the location of stuck gear!!!!

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erik said:

eden

 

the line is .9 that is the traditional rating dont try to all falcon guide the ratings there.

 

 

smirk.gif

 

My memory fails me. Sheesh.

 

Seriously, though, I found the ratings pretty true, as in true Index or Yosemite ratings, not Squamish ratings...

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Yo TLG -

 

The Leap is awesome! I have climbed there extensively for the past two years, and love it.

 

My faves are: the Line .9, Hospital Corner .10a, Surrealistic Pillar .7, Corrugation Corner .7, & Traveler Buttress .9.

 

Stay away from Psychedelic Tree. Fun route, but the loose blocks are gonna take someone out one of these days.

 

As erik said, camping is free. If you show up on a weekday, camping is plentiful. If you show up on a weekend, you're hosed. The S.F.er's take over on the weekends.

Tons o' moderate fun to be had, and the temps aren't too bad in the morning.

 

Have fun. If I'm down there I'll show up & climb. cool.gif

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Re-Read Eriks list! Hamster'stoo. The line, ahhhhh.

 

If you have a fat ass like me, getting it stuck in the travelers butters squeeze chimney is a very ..cough...cough.. real possibility!! I thought that 5.9 way underrated and quite a grunt. I was getting up 5.11 at the time and worked that 5.9? F*er hard (finally got up it with some minor skin removal!) Surrealistic piller WAS rated 5.10B then and seemed easier to me at the time.

 

Although tb is in the 50 classics, corregation corner may be the best 5.7 I've ever done, and certainly better than getting your ass stuck in a squeeze chimney IMO. The rock is topnotch (granite), and pro..whew, imagine that almost any piece - from a small wired nut to a large hex fitting the same placement and all of them being bomber. It's unique in that way.

 

Mostly just enjoy.

 

Bill

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