dyno_merchant Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 which gym is your favorite in the northwest and why. im actually asking about gyms from seattle to vancouver (west of the crest) but are there others that are better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 I prefer Cascade Crags. Nice Staff nice store and nice gym. Although they lack cracks at least they change their holds around more often than some other places I have visited. I would not rule out Stone Gardens either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 don't see how SG can be in there without textured walls... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by bobinc: don't see how SG can be in there without textured walls... Well I dont see how you can tell me what my opinion is either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 Seattle Vertical World - For lead climbing. Stoner Gardens - Best Bouldering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by bobinc: don't see how SG can be in there without textured walls... Yeah no doubt, not to mention all the dirty holds and 6 moth old routes. But my opinion is inherintly biased Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 The dirty greasy holds are mostly found in the Redmond VWorld from my expereience they never move things around for long periods of time. I saw some routes 8 months old. Either way homey is just visiting so route moving most likely will not be an issue for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 Yeah, unfortunately Redmond is lacking in routesetters... They are allways looking for folks willing to comit to setting, (and stripping old) one route a week for a free membership. Luckily weve got a crew of about 12-15 setters in Seattle, so things ussually get changed out and washed after a few months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Yeah, unfortunately Redmond is lacking in routesetters... They are allways looking for folks willing to comit to setting, (and stripping old) one route a week for a free membership. Luckily weve got a crew of about 12-15 setters in Seattle, so things ussually get changed out and washed after a few months. Maybe someone should pass the word to clean the holds at least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 We'll see if the new manager over there can get things in order, hopefully he'll crack the whip on those slackers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayjay Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 VW in Seattle (haven't been to the one in Redmond) for leading and longer climbs. Stone Gardens is very bouldering-oriented, which I am not. VW crowd seems more experienced in trad/alpine climbing and so a good place to hook up with folks wanting to do the same stuff I do. BTW, SG was remodelled recently and now does have textured walls, though I don't know how good they are as I haven't climbed there since the change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted February 11, 2002 Author Share Posted February 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: The dirty greasy holds are mostly found in the Redmond VWorld from my expereience they never move things around for long periods of time. I saw some routes 8 months old. I work at Vertical Relief Climbing Center in Flagstaff and we know how hard it is to clean holds and change routes but we try to make a big effort to do so. Our routes are never up for more than 3 to 3 1/2 months but we only have up to 50 routes and about 60 boulder problems (we clean holds before they go on a new route so our holds stay pretty clean also). how long do you think routes should stay up? another Q...which gyms have the best routesetting and routesetters? why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sayjay: BTW, SG was remodelled recently and now does have textured walls, though I don't know how good they are as I haven't climbed there since the change. Yes, textured paint, but still no features. It is an improvement though. We've been trying to set lots 'o fun boulder problems at VW lately. I've put up 12 in the past couple of weeks. Redmond had a bouldering comp on Saturday so there are lots of new, high quality problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 I dont really get into the routesetting much at the gyms. Although all of them seem to have one or two routes with completely contrived starts for example. I prefer to climb for real and only use gyms for workout when it is raining.. Most of the time I can get to rock or ice... So if you are asking gym rat questions I cannot answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: I work at Vertical Relief Climbing Center in Flagstaff and we know how hard it is to clean holds and change routes but we try to make a big effort to do so. Our routes are never up for more than 3 to 3 1/2 months but we only have up to 50 routes and about 60 boulder problems (we clean holds before they go on a new route so our holds stay pretty clean also). how long do you think routes should stay up?another Q...which gyms have the best routesetting and routesetters? why? I think routes should stay up for 3 months or so, depending on the quality of the route. People sometimes get upset if you take down a route while they are still trying to get it. I haven't really been to many other gyms in the area so I can't speak for them. The Seattle VW has quite a few very experienced routesetters. Some of whom are certified to set for national competitions and get paid for it. We try to set lots of fun routes for everybody, 60% of which are 10b and under. There are over 250 leads , top-ropes and boulder problems. As for caveman's comment- I think setting routes can be really fun. Especially when its raining and the rock is wet! [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted February 11, 2002 Author Share Posted February 11, 2002 about texture... is it so important to have texture? maybe the routesetters aren't adding enough holds to their routes to give you foot options and intermediates thus making you wish you had features to use. although features can make the walls look cooler and give you more options, my opinion is that it would be better to have more creative setting with more holds and eliminate the confusion of all the features that (if used) can mess up the specific moves the route setter intended you to make. also... the more features a gym has the more limited the setting can be. routes can start to have the same "feel." the features will always be the same...boring. [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: dyno merchant ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 i'll give my props to the VW in seattle. solid routes and a nice bouldering cave. i like SG for the bouldering and funky appeal (at least the old one... haven't been since the remodel). the crack in the bouldering area is fun for runing laps up and down in your tennies to completely waste yourself before heading out the door. i think it confuses the nearby mutants pulling V8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: I work at Vertical Relief Climbing Center in Flagstaff and we know how hard it is to clean holds and change routes but we try to make a big effort to do so. Our routes are never up for more than 3 to 3 1/2 months but we only have up to 50 routes and about 60 boulder problems (we clean holds before they go on a new route so our holds stay pretty clean also). how long do you think routes should stay up?another Q...which gyms have the best routesetting and routesetters? why? if you dont change and clean the holds then what would paying for a gym be worth???? isnt that your job to clean and set routes???? i imagine teaching someone to belay is another responsibility, but seriously what is the job of a gym worker??? you gym climbers confuse me...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 You will not get a belay in Redmond either. FYI sounds like VWorld is different depending on which one you go to. Yuppie Redmond or scummy Seattle I dont recommend Yuppie Redmond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 The scene in Stoned Gardens is way lame. Everyone who works there is 20-year-old harcore boulderer with mad attitude. And I've been yelled at for climbing too high without a rope when I'm only like ten-feet off the friggin ground! VW is better. Nicer folks and more diverse crowd, except for that tool Lambone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyno_merchant Posted February 11, 2002 Author Share Posted February 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: if you dont change and clean the holds then what would paying for a gym be worth???? isnt that your job to clean and set routes???? i imagine teaching someone to belay is another responsibility, but seriously what is the job of a gym worker??? routesetting is only one part to making customers happy. you could have the best routes in the world but attract zero climbers if the people working there are assholes and don't know anything about climbing. "gym workers" are supposed to give the full experience. including...routesetting, beta and all around fun and supportive atmosphere. not to mention that climbing gyms could survive even if climbers never went into them. families and kids can easily make up for our cheap asses and they rarely need new routes. But who wants to run a gym like a day care, that would suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayjay Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 quote: is it so important to have texture? maybe the routesetters aren't adding enough holds to their routes to give you foot options and intermediates thus making you wish you had features to use. although features can make the walls look cooler and give you more options, my opinion is that it would be better to have more creative setting with more holds and eliminate the confusion of all the features that (if used) can mess up the specific moves the route setter intended you to make. I completely disagree. Features (at least the ones at Seattle VW) make the climbs much more like real outdoor rock. Smearing skills, even if you are exclusively a trad climber, are important and its great to get used to what your feet will stick to. Small holds just arent' the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sayjay: like real outdoor rock. Smearing skills, even if you are exclusively a trad climber, . admit it you dont know what you are talking about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 I have yet to find a gym that mimmics real outdoor rock well. However the exercising of the muscles helps I suppose. I dont think texture makes much of a difference for me. But whatever everyone has their outlook on things. I prefer to wear my tennies in the gym therefore foot skills get even better and shoes last longer.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayjay Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 so erik I take it from your response that you don't ever use features outside? oh, I know, if you don't have a crack to jam your foot into you just let your feet flail and haul yourself up by your studly arms... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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