Dru Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 technique Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 thelawgoddess said: i wish. it's actually kind of soft.  ..but not unattractive  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 speaking of which ... don't you have an ass shot of me climbing saggiscaryus? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 No, it was Thin Fingers you were an ass on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 i was a bitch; not an ass. and i was having a total breakdown! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 cracked said: glassgowkiss said: glass-pipe and hold your breath as long as you can  Um, yeah, I'll try that next time. Thanks. wtf? are you so stupid to belive you can learn climbing on internet formum? go climb some cracks and figure it out you dolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 hahaha, no shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted August 16, 2003 Author Share Posted August 16, 2003 glassgowkiss said: cracked said: glassgowkiss said: glass-pipe and hold your breath as long as you can  Um, yeah, I'll try that next time. Thanks. wtf? are you so stupid to belive you can learn climbing on internet formum? go climb some cracks and figure it out you dolt  Actually, I was referring to a particular, popular, pitch. I was hoping I could learn how other people climb that pitch.  Besides, your reccommendation is what I've been doing. I learned that where most people fist jam, I'm using cupped hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 ...and then I put it in the pipe and roast it with one of those mini-torch butane lighters. The high is brief but intense. Don't tell my wife, she'll fucking kill me if she finds out I'm on the stuff again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Leavittation! Â Â Dr. Flash -Can you expand on this technique? Wouldn't want to miss out on something useful... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 an index lass asking a smith junkie about crack technique. Â it's a mad, mad world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Yeah! What is this world coming to? But then given the spelling I thought it might be something legit I could take back to the wide crack I love so much. Â Did my first stacked hands yesterday and that shit worked great. Just looking for more tools to put in the kit. No worries Iain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 iain said: an index lass asking a smith junkie about crack technique. Â it's a mad, mad world. Â Hey, now - you gotta do some crazy shit to set up a toprope... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 since DFA has temporarily forgotten his login password perhaps iain can answer at the moment. Â Leavittation is a way to run up offwidth crack where you hop like a frog by stacking hands and feet alternately. Supposedly used often by Mr. Randy Leavitt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 I assume you're refering to the sportos... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 leavittation is just another word for a type of chickenwinging and knee-barring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 ahh! Just some jargon to keep us confused. Bummer I wanted some other way to get up that stuff. Guess I'll just keep thrutching and grunting. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 google is your friend. dru is not correct. no chicken wings.  climb those nasty cracks  "For overhanging offwidths, Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro developed a brilliant technique called Leavittation -- prerequisites for using it are washboard abdominals and aerobic fitness. First stack the hands -- you can place them back-to-palm (the back of one and the palm of the other press against the sides of the crack) or with your wrists crossed (hands placed back-to-back with palms pressed against opposite sides of the crack; see figure 12). Jam either arrangement, the place one foot waist-high or higher by setting a heel-toe jam deep inside the crack. As an alternative, jam your knee inside the crack, then draw your heel toward your crotch; that action expands the knee against the walls of the crack (figure 13). The other foot pushes off the edge of the crack or face holds below you. Using your abs to pull your torso in and up, reach higher and restack your hands. If the crack is too wide forstacked hands, either make a fist and place it against the palm of the other hand (figure 13), or jam both fists side by side (figure 11). "   ponytail and diaper are advanced technique Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 (edited) fern said: google is your friend. dru is not correct. no chicken wings.  climb those nasty cracks  "or with your wrists crossed (hands placed back-to-back with palms pressed against opposite sides of the crack; see figure 12). Jam either arrangement, the place one foot waist-high or higher by setting a heel-toe jam deep inside the crack. As an alternative, jam your knee inside the crack, then draw your heel toward your crotch; that action expands the knee against the walls of the crack (figure 13). The other foot pushes off the edge of the crack or face holds below you. Using your abs to pull your torso in and up, reach higher and restack your hands."  ponytail and diaper are advanced technique  Cool! This is what I was doing on sunday. Crossed my wrists and it actually worked to let me get that knee jam higher. But I guess I could've just lyebacked that crack and used Dru's favorite technique of no technique. Edited August 19, 2003 by ehmmic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 fern said: google is your friend. dru is not correct. no chicken wings.  climb those nasty cracks  "For overhanging offwidths, Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro developed a brilliant technique called Leavittation -- prerequisites for using it are washboard abdominals and aerobic fitness. First stack the hands -- you can place them back-to-palm (the back of one and the palm of the other press against the sides of the crack) or with your wrists crossed (hands placed back-to-back with palms pressed against opposite sides of the crack; see figure 12). Jam either arrangement, the place one foot waist-high or higher by setting a heel-toe jam deep inside the crack. As an alternative, jam your knee inside the crack, then draw your heel toward your crotch; that action expands the knee against the walls of the crack (figure 13). The other foot pushes off the edge of the crack or face holds below you. Using your abs to pull your torso in and up, reach higher and restack your hands. If the crack is too wide forstacked hands, either make a fist and place it against the palm of the other hand (figure 13), or jam both fists side by side (figure 11). "    now look at that knee, and tell me its not kneebarring!!!!! DRU IS ALWAYS CORRECT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Dru said: Â now look at that knee, and tell me its not kneebarring!!!!! DRU IS ALWAYS CORRECT! Â I'm looking, I don't think that's a kneebar. Â We'll have to ask a rad sporto though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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