AlpineK Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 ChucK and I decided to climb at Washington Pass this weekend. Neither of us had been to the Wine Spires, so we looked in the guide and picked out some fun stuff. I picked ChucK up at 5 AM in the big city; we drove up to the parking area beyond the pass and started hiking up the hill. We got to the basin bellow the spires at noon, picked out a camping spot near a snow patch, and had lunch. We figured we had enough time to climb Annie Greensprings on the west side of Burgundy Spire. The chockstone where the route starts is super cool, but the lower part of the route was kind of ho hum. The upper few pitches were pretty fun though. There was a nice offwidth and some other cool climbing. Eventually we met up with the north side rout on Burgundy, and after another couple pitches we were on the summit. We rapped back down to Burgundy col and stashed our climbing gear then descended back to our camp. The next day we climbed on the east face of Chianti Spire. We hiked back to the col, picked up our gear, and headed over on the east side. Hiking on the hard snow was interesting in running shoes, but we made it to the base and started up Rebel Yell. We found Telemarker’s stuck 3.5, but after a few minutes messing with it we gave up. The offwidth wasn’t too bad; anyway that was ChucK’s lead, which left me with the blind step across and the crack above. The crack that splits the headwall is really fun; I was thankful the belay station at the top was set cause I was out of gear. Once on top ChucK and I took turns standing on the true summit. On the 2nd rappel we got our rope stuck, but chucK managed to get it free with out too much screwing around. The hike out was brutal; the only other thing of interest was this massive rockfall we saw coming from the west side of Silverstar. It gave me pause for a few seconds wondering if the rocks were going to stop or keep coming towards us. Rebel Yell Annie Greensprings Telemarker's picture: My only picture from the weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 Is the pic of the stuck cam? One sweet route for chur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted August 11, 2003 Author Share Posted August 11, 2003 No that's a pic that Telemarker took and I used. The stuck cam is near the base of the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 AlpineK said: The hike out was brutal; the only other thing of interest was this massive rockfall we saw coming from the west side of Silverstar. It gave me pause for a few seconds wondering if the rocks were going to stop or keep coming towards us. That rockfall was huge! It lasted for about a minute, no exaggeration. Check out Uncle Tricky's report of Gato Negro. That million-ton rockfall gulley may well be their descent route . That West face of Silver Star looks nice ('ceptin for the huge rockfall gully shit). Also, we walked up there and back with hardly a hint of a trail. There's gotta be a trail! Uncle Tricky talks of one in his description for Gato Negro. Not tha I'm complaining or anything, but WHERE'S THE CONFOUNDED TRAIL ?! Can anybody fill me in? Oh yeah, and a #5 Camalot sorta protected the offwidth, but not well enough to erase my fears. There was a hidden yellow alien placement about the same height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 muy beuno... are yall talkin bout the first offwidth corner, with all the face features... the times i've done that rt. i think i just face climb around that wideness and up to where it gets easy... there is a small cam placement... and a #4 is the biggest peice i'd want to carry up there imo- bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 hey chucK there really is no trail that we follwed... just go up from the flat area a little bit, then bust right thru some trees headin towards the huge talus... i've been up there twice in the last month and never followed a trail per se... why hazn't anyone gone and done gato negro..? this route is awesome!!! wheres mr. i'm hard, and looking for BIG TOUGH ALPINE ROCK CLIMBS! what 10 pitches just too short... and only .10+, why bother right? just go to squamish and crag tuffy -bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Nice work Kurt! Should have told me you were gunna be in the area this weekend. I was over there just chillin'. We could of hooked up for some or what not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 how many pitches was the Annie Greensprings route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
North_by_Northwest Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 Nice work, man. I was up there the weekend before last and found the Rebel Yell route spectacular as well. We also did a route on Rossi Spire (not in the Beckey Guide) but it paled in comparison to Chianti. Cheers Fellas, "With a Rebel Yell, she cries, More, More, More." -Billy Idol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 michael_layton said: how many pitches was the Annie Greensprings route? It was a bunch of unmemorable stuff, a lot of ropedraggy tree roping (about 4 belays ),then three cool pitches at the end. Then you're two pitches from the top on the NW face route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted August 13, 2003 Author Share Posted August 13, 2003 specialed said: Nice work Kurt! Should have told me you were gunna be in the area this weekend. I was over there just chillin'. We could of hooked up for some or what not. Sounds fun, but it would have messed with our climbing schedule. Party another time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_johnston Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 Just checking to see if anyone ever tightened the right bolt at the top rap station on Chianti. It was finger tight when I wrote in June. If the sleeve is not properly expanded the bolt is not safe. Take a 13mm wrench up with you. Annie GS is lame. Next time climb the W Butt of Paisano and link with Burgandy for the best long moderate in the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 Scott, Met you a few weeks ago on the hike down from Forbidden. You were with the Midget. Reguarding the loose bolt on Chianti, is it the 8mm bolt that is loose or the larger diameter insert that's loose? Hand tight should be ok as long as the insert piece is tight. Tightning the bolt will not tighten the insert. It's the type with a pound in expander cone at the end of the hole. It's a 3 part bolt. 8mm bolt (silver color), insert (brass color), and expander cone (not visible). If the insert is loose as you suggest, then carefully pushing (pounding) the insert in a little below the rock surface may push the expander cone in further and hopefully tighten the insert. Nice looking piece of rock on the west face of Silver Star btw. very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_johnston Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 PMS: Thanks, I'm used to the Rawl bolts with expanding sleeves. In this case the Petzl 8mm bolt is loose. Sleeve looks fine. Still spooky to see that hanger wiggle so much.. I'll tighten it next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 Good job guys. what type of rack did you bring or reccomend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted August 15, 2003 Author Share Posted August 15, 2003 I would take a single set of cams small-#4 camalot, stoppers, and a set of tri cams (I like em but chuck had some hexes) plus at the very least another #4; we found several placements for a #5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry_Pi Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 Hello capitalist! My preference is Thunderbird, 17.5%. I hear Night Train might taste better though. Thank you for allow asian to drink wine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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