ryland_moore Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Worth doing? Not heading up there expressly for that, but in case we finish off the other climbs we want to do in the area, were thinking that it would be an easy one to do. 4 pitches? Beta/comments/suggestions? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Finding the start with only the Beckey topo can be tricky. Finding the start from the top of the first pitch of Overexposure is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 I agree with Dru. Its a fun link-up with Liberty Bell and worthy of the amount of time it takes. We ended up making a couple of false starts so check it out as you rap down Overexposure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted August 7, 2003 Author Share Posted August 7, 2003 Does it go up right from the notch? Further down? Anyone have a topo of this climb? I haven't looked at the Beckey book yet, but just in case, beta? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 starts down from the notch in a werd looking lay back flake thingy... Â with some faces moves.....there is a small bush and some steep shite.. Â wait wait wait..i think i am spraying beta for the n face route!?! ! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 It's alright, the north face is a better climb IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted August 7, 2003 Author Share Posted August 7, 2003 I've heard the N. Face has a lot of loose shite. Is this true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leejams Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 erik said: starts down from the notch in a weird looking lay back flake thingy... Â with some faces moves.....there is a small bush and some steep shite.. Â wait wait wait..i think i am spraying beta for the n face route!?! ! Â I believe eric is right on for the cave rte, it starts down from the notch about 20 feet in which beckey describes (wrong) the N. face rte is to start. The N. face rte starts right at the notch, the cave rte starts down and across a weird ledge and now past a dead looking bush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 North Face starts about 60 feet west of the high point of the notch, not right at the top. Look for the major crack system angling up and towards the east. No way is it loose. Not a detached piece on that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Sabertooth said: North Face starts about 60 feet west of the high point of the notch, not right at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 When I did the North Face I had a hard time deciding if I was on route or not on the second pitch. We got up the thing, but it seemed harder than 5.6. I went past a lot of grooves and flaring rotten cracks using the occasional flake for protection. The route went straight up and then curved to the left, did an almost level traverse and then angled up again. Â There is a nice way up at 5.8 from the left side of the ledge you reach on the first pitch. It is harder but (I am told) protects more easily. There is very little loose rock anywhere on the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 Attitude said: Â Yes, I know what the Beckey guide says, but the easiest way up the first pitch is the far western crack system with the flakes going up to the east. It is not 20 feet from the notch, as described in the book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman_Clyde Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 CBS, I agree with you about the N. Face seeming harder than 5.6, especially the second pitch which has no clear line to follow, just an odd bulge here and there. I ended up wishing that my partner and I had taken the Cave Route, which looked a little harder on the first pitch but supposedly is not too bad after that. The start looked obvious to me: traverse the ledge system westward, staying level as the gully drops away, for about 40 feet, then proceed upward, with the crux being a blind reach to gain the upper part of this same ledge system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 I guess what was so unnerving was the uncertainty of finding protection. You never follow any one crack for long, but rather go from one to another. You can't see a placement until you are right on it. Seemed like they were all there in the end... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 the beckey description/topo are right on for caveroute imho on first pitch traverse right and like leejams says, "across a weird ledge and now past a dead looking bush"....then head up to obvious wide crack via 5.7+/8 moves...traverse right to "live bush"...follow ramp system to the left and then up (5.7ish thru some flakes) to cave....then go thru to easy 5.2 crack to scramble finish... or finish per steep 5.6 nface route (very cool). 3 raps with single 60m rope back to tennies.... Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 ...back to goat's leftover scraps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 Dru said: ...back to goat's leftover scraps nah, there is enuff rubble around to ward off any hungry goats appetite..... bombs away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 catbirdseat said: When I did the North Face I had a hard time deciding if I was on route or not on the second pitch. We got up the thing, but it seemed harder than 5.6. I went past a lot of grooves and flaring rotten cracks using the occasional flake for protection. The route went straight up and then curved to the left, did an almost level traverse and then angled up again. Try going left then up in a nice arc, past piton and bolt and then the rap slings on the block. 5.6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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