If you only had one day to climb in August . . .

[ClimbingGirl33]

where would you go?

 

I am still fairly new to the area - and thus far have only had a chance to check out Vantage, Leavenworth, and of course exit 38.

 

Have some climbing friends out for a visit in a couple of weeks, one can lead trad. up to 5.12 and the other climbs up to 5.10 but tends to lose her "head" sometimes . . . me, I can climb up to 5.10 and get stubborn . . .

 

Any suggestions. Can you do Squamish as a day trip?

 

Thanks!

 

[pope]

Go to Index, do Davis Holland/Lovin' Arms and Centerfold if you're still amped. Squamish can be done in a day, but do you wish to climb or drive? Another fun day trip is the S. Butt on Cutthroat Peak. No 5.12 on this route, but a good climb for a party of three. Dreamer at Darrington is an excellent day of slabby rock. The best concentration of short, super fun routes at 5.9 to 5.11 is certainly Squamish, but I wouldn't make a day trip unless you can do it on a weekday. It tends to be pretty crowded on the weekends.

 

OK, back to the back-breaking, back-yard yard work.

[Highlander]

Squamish can be done as a day trip. I climbed the Grand Wall as a day trip last fall. Just leave around 5:00 AM and plan on getting back late. Index is a great alternative, plenty of good lines to keep you busy all day, and you can put your 5.12 rope gun to good use, and you won't have to do all that driving.

[ClimbingGirl33]

Thanks for the tips!

 

I am itching to get out to Index. Seems like I've done way too much sport climbing since moving out here . . . then again, better make sure my ropegun brings his rack!

 

Does Index get hot in August? What's the best guidebook for that area?

 

Look at me - so many questions!

[Uncle_Tricky]

Index is never too hot to climb and you can always find shade somewhere. You can spend the morning on the lower wall and head up to the upper wall to do davis holland/lovin arms in the early afternoon when the sun goes behind the wall. The best guide for the area is Sky Valley Rock.

 

If I had friends coming to WA and only one day to climb, I'd probably take them to WA Pass. Your friends would be blown away by the alpine beauty of Washington Pass. It's a shorter drive than Squish, but super scenic and there is lots of stuff to choose from with EZ approaches.

[Fence_Sitter]

i second washington pass... quick direct approaches and good sound rock... if apline aspirations hit ya... give this place a try..

[texplorer]

Or you could put up a new route on Slesse. . . . .

[pope]

ClimbingGirl33 said:

Thanks for the tips!

 

I am itching to get out to Index. Seems like I've done way too much sport climbing since moving out here . . . then again, better make sure my ropegun brings his rack!

 

Does Index get hot in August? What's the best guidebook for that area?

 

Look at me - so many questions!

 

Index faces south and the dark, granitic rock soaks up the heat. Two blocks of chock and four quarts of water per person per day, in this weather. Washington Pass is generally cooler but can be really buggy this time of year. Bring your favorite blood-sucker spray. While Leavenworth is hot (and smoky yesterday), Midnight Rock takes a good while to warm up, with no direct sun until later in the day. It's a hard approach for a crag but has Washington's best crack routes and you will never have to wait in line, due to the approach.

 

I agree that the beauty of Washington pass is something to show off to your guests. With three people I'd just go peak bagging, something with a view where you can pass parties (or be passed). That's why I suggested Cutthroat Peak's S. Buttress.

 

Squamish's Grand Wall is a day climb.....a long day when you get caught in traffic. I've done it only once, when I climbed pretty solidly on 5.10/5.11- and with the Cruel Shoes start (not to be missed!) it required about 5 hours (with the Beckham undercling and no Roman Chimneys finish).

 

Have fun. Be safe. Check those knots!

[Bill_Simpkins]

I would reccommend Squish. The friction is nice and there is a lot of variety.

I like Index, but the rock feels a bit greasy to me to choose it over Squish if I only had one day.

[hakioawa]

I'd say WA pass. You can't have a bad day there. Even if you don't climb the drive is worth it. The only downsoide are the bugs. But just be packed up when you hit the parking lot. Once you are 500' up a trail the bugs are not so bad. Though I've never done it the East butress of South Early Winter Spire it supposed to be fantastic. I'm sure you can get the beta from people here. South Buttress on Cutthroat is good. So is west? buttress on SEWS (can't remember but its like 6-7 pitches up to 5.8). If you have less alpine experience you can always to the Becky route and/or the cave route on concord. And if it rains and all else fails, clip bots in mazama then have a in winthrop.

[Dru]

texplorer said:

Or you could put up a new route on Slesse. . . . .

 

i will tell you where the best unclimbed lines are. PM me $50 and a 6er of good

[jumbone]

route E2 at marymoor... wicked pockets, a couple slopers and some killer hand jams. it can be done in one pitch or two. i've also seen people practice their aid skills on it before, but i've personally never tried this. it's a 1.5 hour bike ride from seattle via burke-gilman trail. bring at least a 20m rope, 5 qd's, and plenty of water. must rap -- no w/o.

 

[mattp]

In my view, the South Buttress of Cutthroat is NOT worth doing. All things considered, and when compared to other routes in the area, it is a relatively dirty and unaesthetic climb. The Pass is great, though! If your friend "loses her head" due to exposure, you may not want to try the Direct East Buttress of the S. Spire, but it IS a fantastic climb that will probably prove exciting enough to please your 5.12 friend and yet it is not really all that hard. Look at the NW Face routes on the N. Spire for slightly shorter and simpler climbs that are also very nice.

 

While you can seek out the shade, Index and Leavenworth both get pretty warm in hot weather. However, the Davis Holland/Lovin Arms goes at 5.10 if you take the easier variation on pitch 5, and I think it is the best 5.10 in the State. It is steep and exposed, and it involved a lot of crack climbing with almost no bolts, so it may prove a bit much for a climber who is borderline competent at that grade, but it's way cool.

 

 

[texplorer]

Dru said:

 

i will tell you where the best unclimbed lines are. PM me $50 and a 6er of good

 

I will tell you where the worst unclimbed lines are. PM me $50 ($.50 american) and a 6er of stout.

[ClimbingGirl33]

Decisions Decisions . . . .I guess in part it will depend if my ropegun brings his rack or not!!!

 

What about Darrington?

 

How about a classic multipitch - I've done a few 5.8 -9 multipitches with this pair and provided there are no extended traverses or major power moves L can usually keep her "head."

 

Geesh: and why pay $50 when I can flutter my eyelashes and work the southern accent. . .

[texplorer]

I hear Godzilla is a fun 5.9?

[thelawgoddess]

texplorer said:

I hear Godzilla is a fun 5.9?

 

it is, but it's definitely not a day's worth of climbing in and of itself. go squamish.

[nolanr]

Saw some parties on the NW Corner route of NEWS Sunday. That looks like a totally cool route. Pretty sustained 5.8-5.9 from the looks of the guide book.

[EWolfe]

...you aren't getting out enough, and will kick yourself for it in December.

 

Seriously, Index has tons of stuff for the 5.9-5.12 climbers for a day, from 1-4 pitches, and a lot more bang for the buck if you are coming from Seattle. Why spend 6 hours in a car (round trip to Squamish), when 2 will suffice for a fine day of granite?

If you have more than a day - definitely Squamish.

 

Either place, your batted eyelashes and southern accent will be appreciated...

 

[ClimbingGirl33]

Why thank you kindly sugah

 

We may actually have two days now, but all I can say the last thing I want to do is wait until they get here. Can't believe I've been in Seattle for three months and haven't made it up to Squamish yet.

 

If anyone is willing to help me transition to trad (I've seconded on a handful of multipitch climbs but really want to start leading) let me know! I'll let you know where we end up - but keep the suggestions coming, I've got my own wish list going now!

 

 

[Pencil_Pusher]

Damn, I need to either grow myself a pair of tits or get myself a female avatar to get this kind of beta response.

[EWolfe]

Pencil_Pusher said:

Damn, I need to either grow myself a pair of tits or get myself a female avatar to get this kind of beta response.

 

Go with the avatar - man-boobs are SO VERY unattractive

[mattp]

ClimbingGirl33 said:

What about Darrington?

 

It all depends on what you are looking for. For 5.8 to 5.10 6-10 pitch climbs, I think Darrington is better than either Leavenworth or Index unless you're up for DavisHolland/LovinArms or Iconoclast/Hyperspace. Because there is no current guidebook, the approaches involve some funkness, and it is generally low angle climbing, Darrington doesn't have the crowds, either. It is beautiful, but doesn't have the high mountain ambience of Washington Pass and it is not a world-class climbing destination like Squamish.

[Peter_Puget]

Mattp –

In all seriousness I think you way overstate the quality of Squamish. Squamish has lots of great climbs but its main attractiveness is its volume of middle grade climbs. If you take the best of Wa Pass, Index, Darrington or Leavenworth and compare to the best at Squamish, the top half dozen routes (that are relatvent here) are pretty comparable. By the way the Grand Wall would be no where near the top of my Squamish list. Remember her party has a day maybe two of climbing. Would your suggestion of DH-Lovin Arms and then add another day on Outerspace really be eclipsed by two days at Squamish? I think not.

 

 

Some of the routes at Darrington compare quite favorably to Squamish. For instance, I cannot think of a Squamish 5.9 that is better than Dreamer. I agree with you comments on approaches.

 

PP

 

[erik]

squamush is over rated and the routes greasy.

index will be hott

lworth will be 2 hottt

wa pass is perfect. i dont know what all the crying about the bugs is? dont smell good to them and they wont eat you. the rock at wa pass has good and bad spots.

 

i would go up to wa pass, 3 hr drive no boarder and tons of rad pitches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

swrsews, boving route sews, deb sews, nw corner news, w face news, e face of lex(heh), cave route on concord, n face of concord, becky route lib bell(worst route at the pass and is a shit pile) n face routes of lib bell.

 

if i were you i would want to give me friends a good perspective of washington and the cragging certainly does not do it. you need to show them the mtns!!! the mtns!!!! the views from atop the spires is fuggin rad!!!!