gapertimmy Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 in just a tad over a week, becky and i will be leaving the kids at home and heading down to tuolumne to hook up with cletus and his dad (ropegun) for some fun. as each day passes by, my 8=D just keeps getting bigger, just getting to go back to yosemite gets me stoaked but this will be my first trip where i actually get to hop on some routes. what are your favorites in the area? keep in mind that i'm a pussy and like easy climbs. any hints on cathedral? is it a total wank fest on that mountain or worth it? I've always wanted to climb it since i hiked past it years ago. what about tenaya peak, is that a fun climb? damn, i'm so stoaked! Quote
thelawgoddess Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 gapertimmy said: keep in mind that i'm a pussy and like easy climbs. "golfer's route" - a very fun 5.7 on engorged nubbins like you wouldn't believe. i also recommend "hermaphrodite flake" but don't go around the flake; you *must* go under/through for the experience. (rap off after the flake.) it's only rated 5.4 but feels like 5.8 until you get out of the flake. Quote
MATT_B Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 I've spent quite a bit of time up there and there is a TON to do. To begin with I would recomend getting on a longer classic early in the morning before the hords arrive and pick some of the shorter, less travled routes for later in the day. Here are a few classics I would recommend: Cathedral peak (5.6), Very crowded but very good. Once done with cathedral check out echo peaks or eicorn pinical. Regular route on Fairview (5.9), one of the 50 crowded classics. Get on this one early. When your done try Inverted Starecase (5.10B). West Crack (5.8) on daff dome is another worthy classsic. Then try cresent arch(5.9), fingertips(5.10A), great circle(5.10A) or some of the sport climbs on the east side of daff. South Crack (5.8) on Stately Pleasure Dome is another must do. Then jump on Great White Book (5.6) if you have a cam bigger than a #4 camolot or don't mind soloing a pitch. West country (5.7) Hermaphrodite Flake (5.4) and cross the road and head to tenia beach on the east end of the lake for a dip. Tenia Peak (5.7ish) is also well worth doing. If you are ambitious head over to Mathes Crest (5.6) to make a long day with a lot of climbing. Other things to check out are the hot springs in Mamoth. Hike down to the Grand Canyon of the Tulomnue. North or West ridge of Conness. Finally, take it easy the first couple of days. You will be at over 8000 feet. Save your more ambitious days/climbs for later in your trip when you are acclimatized. Feel free to PM me if you wanted any specific info. Quote
dberdinka Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 What an amazing place! I think Snaileye pretty much covered what I'm familiar with. The crowds were...crowds...but I guess thats the price of admission. Cathedral Peak is a phenominal (sp?) climb crowded or not. Go do it. Matthes Crest was probably one of the finest days I've ever spent in the mountains. Another must do. The best choice we made was to camp at the Forest Service Campground just outside the east entrance to the park. WAY nicer than the T Meadows campground, clean, quiet, spacious. Really good dinners at the little lodge there within walking distance. Have a blast! Quote
thelawgoddess Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 i recommend camping at porcupine flat. $8/site. no running water, but you avoid the crowds, save money, and it's a sweet place to stay. bugs not even NEARLY as bad as the place we stayed just over the pass either. Quote
gapertimmy Posted July 17, 2003 Author Posted July 17, 2003 thanks for the ideas. i definately want to do cathedral, and i was looking at tenaya as well. as for camping, we are staying at tmeadows, or i can go crash at my buddy's place at crane flat Quote
Off_White Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 Tenaya looks good indeed, and the report from some Brits we met suggest that it was nice but very easy, as they roped for less than half the route. Lembert has some swell climbs, Truckin' Drive 5.8 edging on gold glacier polish is sweet, and Lunar Leap 5.9, or Rawl Drive 5.9 are also good. NW Books is a popular but great 5.5 if you're looking for something easier. If you've got a ropegun who's comfortable with runouts, I'd suggest the Dike Route on Pywiak, both historic and lovely. It does command a significant bit of the leader's attention, but followers will have an easier time of it. Hobbit Book is a great 5.7, be there early early to beat the crowds. On The Lamb was stellar, but as the meat of the route is three full pitches traversing a crack, the follower has it no easier than the leader, and both parties should be solid at the 5.9 grade. Most of the route is pretty comfy, but the 40' crux section demands respect. Another great outing, best approached from the Tioga Pass road, is Crest Jewel on North Dome. The ten pitches or so of face climbing on gold granite up to 5.10a may be a little harder than you're looking for, but again, if you can round up a ropegun it would be fine outing with views down into the molten granite ditch below. Out of the bazillions of routes I haven't done there, I think Matthes Crest tops the list of things I'd most like to do, though getting towed up OZ would be in the running. Have a great trip, use the bear boxes, and enjoy the underfunded third world splendor that is Yosemite National Park. Quote
gapertimmy Posted July 17, 2003 Author Posted July 17, 2003 i can't wait. i'm gonna go look at my picts from grand canyon of tuolumne and get a woody. i think i might have to go hike up clouds rest and camp up there for a night, that is magikal. if anyone wants a ride down, lemme know. Quote
Distel32 Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 Snaileye- West country next to hermaphrodite flake is 5.9 I think, not 5.7. I'm pretty sure about that but I don't have the book. TLG?? Quote
erik Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 W COUNTRY IS 5.7 FACE CLIMBING WITH ONE PITCH BEING KINDA LIKE A DIERDE CORNER Quote
Distel32 Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 hhhmmm must be thinking of something else then........ Quote
mvs Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 Matthes was definitely great! We followed the whole crest from south to north. Nice long day, but we were back in time for dinner at the Tioga Pass Lodge (try the steak mmm). Quote
nolanr Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 I second heading over to play on the Echo Peaks after doing Cathedral. More of those "engorged nubbins" over there. Quote
EWolfe Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 I was seriously suckin' wind the first day or so, we did some dome hikes and got settled for 2 days. I am a flatlander, though. Lunar Leap - South Crack - Hobbit Book - Quote
glen Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 Also... Good bouldering just below puppy dome by the river. Pick a boulder and go. As you face puppy dome from the wilderness parking lot, there is a 100' traverse called Machine World that is well worth a try for an evening pump. If you want easy top roping, western front has a good selection between .8 and .10 and is usually not crowded. All the classics are classics for a reason. Add Mt. Conness to that list for a long, fun day (.6). If you're headed out to Cloud's Rest, it is also fun to do it as a day hike and hit the E end of the mega slab for some super-duper-fun class 4 scrambles. If you head further west it ends up being .8 adventure climbing according to reliable accounts I've heard. Cathedral is great... on a weekday with an early start. Watch out for the boot-munching marmots at the base (Sierra snaffle). Tenaya is a great view from the top, and Mildred Lake off the backside is pretty damn scenic and rarely sees people. For a long, fun day, start at Elizabeth lake, bag unicorn to all of the cockscomb to echo peaks (5-easy ish) and add on the mountaineers route up the back of Cathedral (class 3/4) or the .6 route if you have time. So much good stuff, so little time. 4 weeks and counting.... As seen from summit of Mt Dana... Quote
thelawgoddess Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 Distel32 said: hhhmmm must be thinking of something else then........ you might be thinking of south crack, to the right of great white book. west country is the one brent and kyle did while we were doing the flake. Quote
Hal_Burton Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 glen said: Cathedral is great... on a weekday with an early start. Watch out for the boot-munching marmots at the base (Sierra snaffle). Highly recommend carrying over and avoid feeding the wildlife. Better trail on the other side. Quote
MATT_B Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 erik said: W CRACK ON DAFF DOME IS A .9 I think your right. I remember something like one 5.9 move at the first (and only?) bolt right off the deck. I didn't have the book when I wrote my suggestions and I have not been there in about 4 years so I may have made more mistakes. Damn I miss that place!!!!! Quote
Highlander Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 Solo Cathedral PeaK. The approach with no gear only takes about 30-45 minutes, 10 minutes to climb the peak and 30 minutes back to the car and you have a full day left to climb other routes. I thought the regular route on Fairview is overated and Lucky Streaks to be a much better climb. Lots of good rock and you can't go wrong with such short approaches for alpine cragging. I would recomend starting later in the afternoon for some of the "classic climbs". Everone starts linning up for those early in the morning. If you start around 1:00-2:00 you will not have to wait in the line and deal with passing slower parties and the parties on route should be far enough up the route for smooth sailing. Enjoy Quote
erik Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 T-MEADOWS ROCK CLIMBING FALKENSTEIN/ REID RJ SECOR'S SIERRA HIGH PEAKS AND PASSES AND THERE IS NOW A FALCON GUIDE OUT TOO ALSO IN THE WORKS IS A CROFT GUIDE TO THE SIERRA HIGH COUNTRY Quote
cj001f Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 erik said:ALSO IN THE WORKS IS A CROFT GUIDE TO THE SIERRA HIGH COUNTRY Different than "The Good The Great and The Awesome"? http://www.maximuspress.com/ Quote
chelle Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 Supertaco has a "select" guide. That'll at least let you know which routes are poular and likely to be crowded. Quote
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