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Posted

quote:

Originally posted by EV:
Does anyone have any info on the conditions of Snow Creek Wall. TIA

I cannot avoid this Spray!

What the heck do you think it looks like? Plastered and bring your ice gear and be prepared for aid and dry tooling.

Posted

Ok now a serious Speculation only grin.gif" border="0

I would be ready to aid.I would be prepped for some ice\verglass too.What line? Near the White Slabs area may have something. Depending on what you are looking for.Let us know your findings.

Posted

I read a great story about winter ascent of outer Space by Jim Nelson I think or Jim Yoder or some old skool hard core back in 1979 or something. It was in an issue of SUMMIT in the Acc clubhouse in Canmore. Great article. anybody got it, scan it and post it here in a new HISTORY section maybe? smile.gif" border="0

Posted

I think that Outer Space was first climbed in the winter back in the mid-60's and was reported in either Off Belay, Summit or possibly in some early primitive version of Climbing Magazine. If I find the article, I'll post it. I tried a winter ascent back around 1982. It was spooky and we fixed rope. There was a big threatening waterfall way up on the right hand side of the wall that threatened the first pitch and the traverse to Two Tree ledge. We were very nervous about the sparsely protected slabby chicken head pitch that follows the crux traverse. We didn't finish the climb. My college roommate, Will Greenough, along with an alpine wildman I haven't heard of in years: Rick Powell, climbed Orbit during January '79. It took them a couple of weekends and they left fixed ropes in between. Will told me some bold stories of using a broom to sweep off the knobs on the upper wall. It sounded horrifying.

- Dwayner

Posted

Good question.

Country Club Ramp is supposed to hold some great mixed climbing in winter. I haven't climbed it , but would guess it would be pretty good right now.

Jeff Lowe called in one of Washington's best multipitch mixed things back in the 70's.

Posted

the wall was dusted with snow this morning with some verglas in the white fright/white slabs area. white slabs/country club may be good right now if it doesn't snow much more. snowing now with about an inch on the ground but the recent storms dumped almost all of their loads closer to the crest. there isn't much in the way of pure ice climbing to be had as of the last few days---drury/pencil still out, hidden lake routes forming but have holes, and other popular areas like hubba hubba/the smear are real thin. plenty of mixed routes for you dry-toolers out there but expect more snow than ice in the combo.

Posted

the wall was dusted with snow this morning with some verglas in the white fright/white slabs area. white slabs/country club may be good right now if it doesn't snow much more. snowing now with about an inch on the ground but the recent storms dumped almost all of their loads closer to the crest. there isn't much in the way of pure ice climbing to be had as of the last few days---drury/pencil still out, hidden lake routes forming but have holes, and other popular areas like hubba hubba/the smear are real thin. plenty of mixed routes for you dry-toolers out there but expect more snow than ice in the combo.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by crazyjz:
Rat,Don't you know a little about dry tooling?

dry tooling? hell no. you think i'm going to shove an ice tool up my butt without giving it a good lube job first? i usually give my tools a healthy coating of vasoline first, that way they slide in and out real easy.

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