rr666 Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Maybe it tops out? I didn't think sport climbs topped out? Actually, even leading it on an 85 meter is a long f%$king rope. I have seen many 70 meter ropes. Most spools of rope you can buy are more towards the gym side of things and are almost static, so he would not want to climb on one of these. Maybe since he is such a big stud, the rope company made a few special ropes for him, so they could get some advertisement value out of him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 rr666 said: Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Maybe it tops out? Most spools of rope you can buy are more towards the gym side of things and are almost static, so he would not want to climb on one of these. Maybe since he is such a big stud, the rope company made a few special ropes for him You can buy longer ropes from most manufacturers (they make them in LONG lengths and chop) For example Mammut http://www.uhartrescue.com/climbropemammut.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 rr666 said: Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Maybe it tops out? I didn't think sport climbs topped out? Actually, even leading it on an 85 meter is a long f%$king rope. I have seen many 70 meter ropes. Most spools of rope you can buy are more towards the gym side of things and are almost static, so he would not want to climb on one of these. Maybe since he is such a big stud, the rope company made a few special ropes for him, so they could get some advertisement value out of him. no way... there are plenty of spools of dynamic if you know where to look... plus i know some catalogues that sell 100 meter ropes... but there is probably an intermediate rap anchor... makes sense eh? i dontthink you could redpoint 5.15c with 20 lbs of rope trailing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 Doh, I guess I just haven't been looking in the right places. Maybe if I haven't been living under this rock for so long, I might actually own a 100 meter rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 rr666 said: Doh, I guess I just haven't been looking in the right places. Maybe if I haven't been living under this rock for so long, I might actually own a 100 meter rope. They're super-handy for rapping from the parking lot at Smith all the way to Morning Glory. No need to worry about which knot to join the ropes, either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwayner Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 And from the same "PLANET FEAR" web-site, we have more, earth-shattering news!!!!!! "We have just had it confirmed that Dalvinder Sodhi has made the first female ascent of one of Britain's most famous boulder problems : Brad Pit. Using the cunning heel-hook method she did the problem in only six attempts, in one day. The problem was inititally climbed using an extremely powerful dyno, and considered one of the very hardest moves in the country, it was only later that a more technical solution was found." What's next....the first female sit-start of the same??? Now THAT would be worthy of a web-site called "Planet Fear"!!!!! I'll be sure to watch CNN or the BBC tonight to see if it made the headlines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 11, 2003 Author Share Posted July 11, 2003 there is no sit start to brad pit dwayner! the stand up version is v10 or v11 tho and dalvinder sodhi is a hottie so im all in favor of that news item! MAYBE THEY COULD PUT ON THERE "FAT OLD MAN DISRESPECTFUL OF SPORT CLIMBING AND BOULDERING" except for one fact: It's an old story, so not news. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 rr666 said: Doh, I guess I just haven't been looking in the right places. Maybe if I haven't been living under this rock for so long, I might actually own a 100 meter rope. They're also perfect for linking the 5.16c extension proj to the "not as pleasing because there is a natural continuation of another 80 or so meters" .14d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 Dwayner said: And from the same "PLANET FEAR" web-site, we have more, earth-shattering news!!!!!! "We have just had it confirmed that Dalvinder Sodhi has made the first female ascent of one of Britain's most famous boulder problems : Brad Pit. Using the cunning heel-hook method she did the problem in only six attempts, in one day. The problem was inititally climbed using an extremely powerful dyno, and considered one of the very hardest moves in the country, it was only later that a more technical solution was found." What's next....the first female sit-start of the same??? Now THAT would be worthy of a web-site called "Planet Fear"!!!!! I'll be sure to watch CNN or the BBC tonight to see if it made the headlines. I'm still breathlessly awaiting the dwayner first ascent!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 11, 2003 Author Share Posted July 11, 2003 Alex Huber comes out swinging against new Spanish 15c: from Desnivel Hello! I have just read the news about fernandes' first ascent, which should be 9b+. I am not in the world of superhard sportclimbing routes anymore, so it does not affect me directly any more. still, sportclimbing is very important for me and therefore i keep on being interested, what's going on. In fact, fernandez is in the same position than fred roughling 8 years ago, when he gave the grade 9b for his route akira. he had no references, which could prove his ability to climb routes of that difficulty. Doubts will continue about the ascent of akire for several reasons. we still do not know, how hard akira is in fact. it could eventually be not harder than 9a? but it also could be something like 9b - but then i would simply not believe him that he has climbed it. Or he has climbed akira and the route is really 9b today, but he might have chopped some of the holds. who knows? Fact is, that if he would have climbed a route of the grade 9b, he should have been able to climb a route of the grade 9a on 'second go', at least 'within a day', and he should be able to 'on sight' routes up to the grade 8c+. roughling, though a strong climber, never did come even close to be such a capable climber, so there is no way that the climbing community could give him any credit at all. The same problem will have fernandez now. if he would be able to climb 9b+, then he must be in the position to climb 'realization' at 'second go', at least 'within a day'. and he should be able to 'on sight' routes of the grade 9a! i wonder if he could come even close to climb 'action directe' within in a day! I hope for fernandez that he is going to make a documentation, which should be made now - after he proposed the grade 9b+. he should be still able to climb the route maybe with no more than one time resting in the rope, because the ascent is still 'fresh'. the climbing world could then believe him doing his route if we can see a documentation like ramonet on la rambla. If fernandez would like to have the credit for doing chilam balam, then he should go with you and a video filmer back to the route next week. make a documentation like on la rambla! then we could believe that he did this route. Concerning his capapbility to climb 9b+: he goes to ceuse and he sends chris sharmas 'realization' second go. but, to be true, i am sure that fernandez is far from being capable to achieve that. Please, let also know fernandez about this matter. maybe you translate this email and send it to him. i do think not bad about him at all. he just should not make any mistakes now. he should know that he has to prove his ability to climb 9b now, if he is not ready to do that then he will loose the credit in the international climbing world completely. For sure. As you know, i also do speak castellano. so let fenandez know that i am ready to give him advice in this matter. let him know that proposing grade 9b+ is a serious matter, whereabout he should not make a mistake. Proposing the grade 9b+ means that he does make other capable climbers such as sharma, ramonet, iker pou, dani andrada.... look like a kindergarden...Also you should know about the important position, which you have for the climbing world. desnivel is one of the most important magazines in the world and therefore you should think about seriously, which ascents you are going to give credit. Best regards, Alexander. I like how Alex recognizes that 14b (his current sending level) is no longer Hard Sportclimbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 man...the crap he was workin' in the valley! SHHHHITE, that guy's and his brother are studs...plain and simple... comment on that w/ a boring z , joshk!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 11, 2003 Author Share Posted July 11, 2003 RuMR said: man...the crap he was workin' in the valley! SHHHHITE, that guy's and his brother are studs...plain and simple... comment on that w/ a boring z , joshk!! not only is he a "stud" but he wears a leather THONG i heard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 don't know about that...and you don't need to fill me in on how you know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 11, 2003 Author Share Posted July 11, 2003 rumr you just like huber cause he's a dwarf too (5'5" I heard) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 Thomas is...alex is not... They are complete opposites...funny shit...thomas walks around like a brick shithouse...no lie the guy's wider than he is tall...alex is a stick and lanky...not real short but not tall either...maybe 5'10" ??(that's huge to me)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 i heard dwyaner sent all those 9's and 8's....with little wimpy rehersal. pope belayed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 well..."its not what I'd call climbing"... BAWAHAHAHA...i wonder if he'd have the balls to sit there and say that shit as those guys just shred everything he could conceive of as even remotely hard.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 RuMR said: man...the crap he was workin' in the valley! SHHHHITE, that guy's and his brother are studs...plain and simple... comment on that w/ a boring z , joshk!! Shit man, you're obsessed with me. In any event, fuck yeah these guys are studs. I will never be able to sport climb anywhere close to this level, not a chance, but I still find a bunch of spandex wankers arguing about the difference between 8a, 9a+, 8b+, 9b-, 8a inverted top up -, 15c reverse - + , 15b deluxe overhead - and what not a bunch of boring shit. Sorry, just not my thing, I'd much rather read about an impressive first ascent of a 2000 foot wall of steep rock and ice. It's just a lot more engaging in my opinion. too each his own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 Did you read about what the hubers were trying to do in the valley??? I think that fits your description of interesting, to say the least... Hey man, i'm just fuckinwithca!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 RuMR said: Did you read about what the hubers were trying to do in the valley??? I think that fits your description of interesting, to say the least... Hey man, i'm just fuckinwithca!! uh uh...what were they up to? Don't get me wrong, people being able to climb the routes they do in sport climbing these days is interesteing in my book. I mean, it pretty much boggles my mind what the top end sport climbers can get themselves up. It's superhuman to a wanker like me. And maybe it's because I can't do that type of climbing that I question what really makes the difference in grades at the very high end. Is there really a difference when these routes turn into big projects and get so contrived? I find it hard to believe that you can really distinguish between such minute differences in climbs that only one or two people ever climb. Whatever, beats me, maybe they can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 12, 2003 Share Posted July 12, 2003 They were freeing the zodiac...not exactly a sport climbing deal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted July 12, 2003 Share Posted July 12, 2003 Dru said: Alex Huber comes out swinging against new Spanish 15c: from Desnivel Great quote , Dru. I have a lot of respect for the Hubers. Very succinct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Author Share Posted July 18, 2003 alex now trying to cover his own ass against charges he hates fernandez: Asunto: Chilam Balam Hello¡ After my letter has been published in desnivel's homepage it seems that all the people are upset about my position, because they see my behavior as agressive against Bernabe. In fact, it is not. About ten years ago i said that everybody has the right to propose a certain grade for his first ascent and this proposal has to remain up to the moment when it gets confirmed or changed. Therefore i also accept Bernabe's proposal - i wouldn't rate it down. But on the other side, i cannot take this proposal seriously as I can't see any references for such a high grade. Therefore i would be lying if would say that I believe in the correctness of Bernabe's proposal of the grade 9b+! What is indeed necessary that also desnivel shows its position, because after the isolated appearance of my letter it looks like that I am the only person on earth who thinks that 'chilam balam' could be potentially overgraded. Desnivel has to make the public understand what proposing a 9b+ really means and that it is somewhat indecent if you have no references. I am not the jealous, unfair asshole like it seems now with my statement being left alone. In fact, i tried to avoid that the same happens to Bernabe what has happened to Rouhling. I am sure that Rouhling is not happy about the fact that he has questionable credibility nowadays - and i am sure that Bernabe wouldn't be happy either. In fact, i give Bernabe a fair and honest chance, because i let him know my opinion - informing him about my doubts gives him the opportunity to answer. It only would be unfair if people start talking and spreading rumours and doubts behind his back - this is what we usually call as 'Talk is cheap' and this is what so many people simply do! Alexander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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