Dwayner Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 gapertimmy said: or you can just let people do what they like to do, let em do their own thing, and don't give a fuck if they clip bolts or pull on their pro! just climb Brother Gaper.....at this point, no one is stopping anybody from being lame. However, if I were the property owner at Vantage....I would shut the place down and sue the climbers responsible for the grid-bolting, requiring that they restore the area. Quote
Attitude Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 slaphappy said: Greg_W said: Dwayner said: "How could someone just hang from a bolt time and time again and call that climbing?!??!" Exactly! You're starting to catch on!! I agree with Dwayner. I think it all comes down to motivation. Although, why someone is motivated to clip bolts I'll never understand. I disagree with Dwayner. I think it all comes down to attitude. Well, thank you. Bolted sport crags leaves the mountains free for the alpinists. Quote
RuMR Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 Dwayner said: RUMR.....maybe I can, maybe I can't....you don't know me, and that's not the issue. I can have an opinion on the subject even if I'm confined to a wheelchair. and i'm entitled to my opinions as well... Quote
carolyn Posted July 8, 2003 Author Posted July 8, 2003 Rodchester said: Don't like it, don't climb it..... Not sure if these comments were directed toward me. I kind of think so, since you quoted me. Maybe the original post wasnt entirely read or clear ...cause I dont think anywhere in that post I stated I didnt like or agree w/ sport climbing. It was a foreign concept to me, in which I was sharing my observations -both pluses and minus'. Rodchester said: How can you allow yourself to let it be ok to fall?!?!??! Bolts..... I dunno, I have a thing about falling...even on the bolts...even after watching someone take some whippers and continue on. Might come from my ice climbing mindset (?). I know there has been endless debate on that subject as well. I understand all sides. I think its just a matter of me forming my own opinion/ethics which will work best for my climbing style. Quote
JayB Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 Dwayner said: Change the "rules" allowing unlimited hang-dogging and rehearsal of the moves and personal time-sacrifices and YOU TOO can be a 5.13+ climber! Give them enough time to rehearse and hang-dog, and both Richard and Granny will eventually have the moves wired to climb a 5.13. I say it's put-up or shut-up time. You redpoint a 5.13 sport route of RuMr's choice and I'll give you $100. Anyone else who wants to see Dwayner prove his claim that anyone can climb 5.13 sport, by demonstrating that he can climb 5.13 sport, make a pledge and sweeten the pot. Quote
RuMR Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 JayB said: Dwayner said: Change the "rules" allowing unlimited hang-dogging and rehearsal of the moves and personal time-sacrifices and YOU TOO can be a 5.13+ climber! Give them enough time to rehearse and hang-dog, and both Richard and Granny will eventually have the moves wired to climb a 5.13. I say it's put-up or shut-up time. You redpoint a 5.13 sport route of RuMr's choice and I'll give you $100. Anyone else who wants to see Dwayner prove his claim that anyone can climb 5.13 sport, by demonstrating that he can climb 5.13 sport, make a pledge and sweeten the pot. OMFG! Now that's ripe...I will sell all of my qd's and quit sport climbing forever! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 Aint enough time left in the life of the universe for that! Quote
slaphappy Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 JayB said: Dwayner said: Change the "rules" allowing unlimited hang-dogging and rehearsal of the moves and personal time-sacrifices and YOU TOO can be a 5.13+ climber! Give them enough time to rehearse and hang-dog, and both Richard and Granny will eventually have the moves wired to climb a 5.13. I say it's put-up or shut-up time. You redpoint a 5.13 sport route of RuMr's choice and I'll give you $100. Anyone else who wants to see Dwayner prove his claim that anyone can climb 5.13 sport, by demonstrating that he can climb 5.13 sport, make a pledge and sweeten the pot. I'll kick in $30* if he can get up it even hanging on every bolt since it's so easy (uh, no stick clips) and match the $100 if he redpoints it. * all bets are off if I see him in lycra. Quote
RuMR Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 man...at this rate dwayner will be able to retire as soon as he puts one down!!!!! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 Anyone ever climb Phoenix in Yosemite? Now there is a dumbed down weenie route if ever there one. Get this - the pro is perfect! Who cares if the jams are technical at one point and strenuous the whole way. It’s a total weenie route. Any old lady and her grandmother could (given enough time) red point that sucker. Come to think of it the same goes for Tales of Power or Supercrack, any pitch on Astroman and City Park! These climbs are all examples of the dumbing down of climbing. In fact any well protected climb is an affront to the very values that built this grand country! Ropeless is the only way to go and since I am prone to falling I am forced by my high minded ethical nature to become a pad person. PP Quote
Dwayner Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 "I say it's put-up or shut-up time. You redpoint a 5.13 sport route of RuMr's choice and I'll give you $100. Anyone else who wants to see Dwayner prove his claim that anyone can climb 5.13 sport, by demonstrating that he can climb 5.13 sport, make a pledge and sweeten the pot. " a) your challenge is intellectually immature. ("Put up or shut up".....I haven't heard that much since high school, John Wayne!. I say, "grow up".) b) I have NO doubts that I could do such a thing (and if not, I could probably pull some anonymous healthy punk off the street and if properly compensated, could get the guy going.) However, I HAVE A LIFE, and have no interest in wasting it on rehearsing a bolted sport-climb, the very existence of (sport-climbs) which I find dubious. It would probably take me quite awhile to get my fingers strong and a few weeks to wire the moves, but I have no doubts. Others on this board could do it much quicker while others might take weeks or months longer. Did you even understand the point, Sparky? You'd have to raise the challenge to make it worthwhile to pay for my wasted time over, say, four months....that's be about $25,000, and even then, I would have a hard time justifying the WASTE OF TIME!!! Quote
RuMR Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 nice cop out... Pretty ez to sit back, poke fun but not deliver... Oh well, as you said, you are entitled to your opinions...Mine haven't changed and neither have yours, obviously... Great country, isn't it?? Quote
Dwayner Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Anyone ever climb Phoenix in Yosemite? Now there is a dumbed down weenie route if ever there one. Get this - the pro is perfect! Dumbed-down, eh? Did you clip pre-placed gear? Did you leave all your stuff in the crack for the next guy? Did you hang all over it because it was too hard for you? Quote
RuMR Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 how's bout this one... Why don't you tr any 5.13+ no falls? Doesn't have to be a sport climb... Or go do a V10...you can even project it for credit... Quote
minx Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 dwayner, in your humble opinion is there ANY place for sport climbing? Quote
Peter_Puget Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 Dwayner said: Dumbed-down, eh? Hell yes I say weenie route! Compared to such routes as Twilight Zone - Oh wait now that's been "dumbed down" too. Damn all my impressive feats of yesterday are being dumbed down! These young guns will never be impressed. Did you clip pre-placed gear? Did you leave all your stuff in the crack for the next guy? Nope but I never once worried about pro or the fall something I have worried about on sport routes. Did you hang all over it because it was too hard for you Mea Culpa But I went back to shred it. (See bit about it being a weenie route above) PP Quote
RuMR Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Dwayner said: Dumbed-down, eh? Hell yes I say weenie route! Compared to such routes as Twilight Zone - Oh wait now that's been "dumbed down" too. Damn all my impressive feats of yesterday are being dumbed down! These young guns will never be impressed. Did you clip pre-placed gear? Did you leave all your stuff in the crack for the next guy? Nope but I never once worried about pro or the fall something I have worried about on sport routes. Did you hang all over it because it was too hard for you Mea Culpa But I went back to shred it. (See bit about it being a weenie route above) PP Nice send!!!! Redpoint despite the slant per Dwayner? I'm headin' back to the valley at the end of september... Quote
JayB Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 Dwayner said: Blan, blah, blah, shameless cop-out, blah, blah, blah. Exactly. Quote
sk Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 I feel like I need to explain a little. I climb sport on occasion. I primarily love cracks. But I do not lead trad at this point. I have, very EASY climbs on several occasions, but I think, for me, trad leading will be a serios head game. It is also an issue of opertunity. My primary climbing partner right now (who also happens to be my best friend) likes face climbing better. So she has no rack, and Ummm niether do I. I am getting stronger climbing faces, mentaly and physicly. But I am also working on my crack tecnique where I can top rope. I am sending .10a crack on top rope (with some work) So all in all I feel like the slabs that I have been enjoying are making me an all over better climber. I hapend to get to hang out with Some realy interesting climbers at Flagstone over the weekend. They beilive firmly in respecting the rock and only puting in necisary bolts. The climbs that they have put up there are BOLD. Realy great guys. and they were realy encouraging. I think the most important thing to remember is respect, and vission. Those are the things that can make a bolted climb a thing of beauty and fun. But still, I'd rather climb cracks Quote
slaphappy Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 Just wanna take a moment to say to Pope who will inevitably show up soon. Pope! Quote
eric8 Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 "Im not for or against sport climbing. However, Ive been a bit backwards in my learning (ice before rock, trad before sport), so this way of climbing was a bit foriegn to me." I started trad before sport and don't consider it backwards you could probably find many others who have done the same. Ice before rock though is a little wierd. Quote
RuMR Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 JayB said: Dwayner said: Blan, blah, blah, shameless cop-out, blah, blah, blah. Exactly. Man, you crack my shit up!!!!! Quote
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