JoshK Posted June 27, 2003 Share Posted June 27, 2003 yo, I know a few of y'all's have climbed this. this time of year would you imagine we'd run across rock hard ol' glacier ice or more forgiving stuff? I'm wearing a pair of non full shank boots and the only strap on crampons I've got are aluminum. I'm wondering if I'm going to be hating life with aluminum crampons on that stuff. I could probably find a pair of steel poons to borrow otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted June 27, 2003 Share Posted June 27, 2003 I have climbed it twice, both times in late June in different years. Once we found harder, alpine ice and needed two tools, the other time found softer stuff and got by with one tool. I imagine you'll be ok as long as your boots are moderately stiff ie La Sportiva Makalu or similar. I would recommend against using soft hiking boots. A second tool would not be a bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted June 27, 2003 Author Share Posted June 27, 2003 I've got trango S boots. Not full shank, but reasonably stiff. I am bringing a second tool, but obviously that won't make up for really shitty footing. I'm torn because the aluminum crampons are really nice n' light but I'd hate to get into anything difficult with a non full shank boot + substandard crampons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted June 27, 2003 Share Posted June 27, 2003 I have a pair of aluminum Camps (New-matic style) that rock. I have used them on short steep sections of pretty hard exposed glacial ice...however...I tend to agree that concern is warranted regarding both aluminum strap-on crampons and softer boots. My 2 cents: take the steel and feel comfortable knowing you've got good footing. If you take the steel and don't need them, I'll buy you a beer next time I see you.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redoubt Posted June 27, 2003 Share Posted June 27, 2003 JoshK said: I'd hate to get into anything difficult with a non full shank boot + substandard crampons. Then why take the chance? I've also climbed the route this time of year and encountered pretty hard ice. I'm all for fast-n-light when it makes sense, and to the degree it makes sense. But we're not talking about much of an approach here, and we are talking about a route that can get a bit technical. Beef up your footwear and have a great climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted June 27, 2003 Share Posted June 27, 2003 JoshK said: I've got trango S boots. Not full shank, but reasonably stiff. I am bringing a second tool, but obviously that won't make up for really shitty footing. I'm torn because the aluminum crampons are really nice n' light but I'd hate to get into anything difficult with a non full shank boot + substandard crampons. JoshK, the Trangos will be fine with aluminum crampons. Its AI2+ at the most, fairly low angle. Cruising altitude. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted June 27, 2003 Share Posted June 27, 2003 Anybody know what the top of the route is like these days? Did it all fall down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted June 27, 2003 Share Posted June 27, 2003 The top was still there when I looked down it last weekend. Steep with a bit of cornicing but nothing major Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted June 27, 2003 Share Posted June 27, 2003 I would guess that you could get the route done with lite-weights. I would still choose the rigid if I repeat it. The ice difficulties were slight on the far left of the cliff when we did it in mid July, but I would want rigids for the rock section to gain the upper slopes. Besides, part of the joy of the climb was the ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Smoker said: Overheard at Exit 38, "Dude, your the hand" It's "you're" not "your". Sorry, -Grammar police Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Dude, it's gramer, not grammar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 I did the route this past w/e with lightweight boots and Aluminium crampons, although my partners both had heavier gear. There are a few sections where you have to climb hard glacier ice and a second tool is useful. Climbing with lighter gear also requires better technique as you can't just kick your feet anywhere which may slow you down somewhat. If I were going to climb the ICG I would take bigger boots and steel crampons as it would be a more fun. Front pointing in a lighter boot with strap-on crampons gets pretty uncomfortable after a while. You're not carrying them so weight isn't an issue. If you want to do one of the rock routes that start from the upper ICG then you could go light but you might want one of your party to have heavier gear so that they can lead any technical sections. NOTE This is all going to change in the next few weeks. There are some key snow bridges on the route that aren't going to be there for much longer. This will mean that the route will involve more hard ice and possibly some mixed climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 mmmm..mixed!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 "mixed" in this case may mean climbing a wet rock wall below the remains of an overhanging and collapsing bergshrund. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Thats what I'm talkin' about and how it was when I did it 3 yrs ago about this same time. We were able to climb out from under the shrund and sweep back to the upper snow. Fantastic is probably how I would describe the climbing, but it was only a couple 5.8 moves with pons on, in about half a pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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