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Posted

I thought you'd like Little Si, Dwayner. Ever been there? It is really quite beautiful in those woods and there's even a couple of crack climbs -- one of them doesn't even have any bolts on it! Come on out and play.

Posted

The British Aisles and immediately adjacent crags offer routes from 5.7 to 5.12b or so, lead or toprope, and there are a couple which have some crack climbing though it is mostly face. It is not quite as close to the car as the main wall at Exit 38, but in my view it is nicer although there isn't a railroad bed to hang out on. I think the parking lot may be less prone to vandalism, too.

 

Directions to the parking area are here: on-line guide (partial)

 

From the parking lot, hike up the trail, and stay on the main path at several forks (almost all have signs and arrows saying which way to "Little Si"). After 15 or 20 minutes, the trail climbs over a rocky rib, then drops slightly and enters a clearing. At a second small clearing, an initially indistinct trail heading left goes up a series of stone steps to reach the crags at Blackstone and Repo (the first of the "British Aisles"). If you miss the turn and stay on the main trail, you will quickly start up a small hill with switch-backs and the cliff will become visible on the left. At this point, you've gone too far but you can turn around and look for a trail forking left that heads up to meet the cliffs a couple hundred yards north of the previously noted access trail.

 

The password: Hey You!!!! Secret Handshake: Middle finger.

Posted

Repo, Blackstone and AWOL are the "British Aisles." I suggest these because there are more moderate climbs in this area than there are over at WWI, most are based on the ground rather than a ledge where Dwayner might fall off after drinking his Mickey's, and there is an easy way to hike up top for a view.

more of the online guide

Posted

'Don't know about that, Dave. It is possible that the new parking lot may have gates -- I've only been there once and I wasn't really looking for that kind of thing. The old parking lot is certainly not gated, so if it looks worriesome I suppose we could park down there (about 200 yards away). I don't know what the regulations might be, but I know that in the past I've gone climbing there after work and come stumbling out in the dark without any problem (though sandals might not be a good choice of footwear). I've done the same at Amazonia, where there used to be (probably still is) a sign saying the gate will close at dark or whatever.

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