Peter_Puget Posted June 16, 2003 Posted June 16, 2003 Saturday morning the Huber bros. did the route in 2:32. PP Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 16, 2003 Author Posted June 16, 2003 Erik they have free climbed all but the Nipple Pitch but claim that will go at 13d/14a. 1st 5 pitches are variations. PP Quote
thelawgoddess Posted June 16, 2003 Posted June 16, 2003 i was looking around for descriptions of this route and found this: "Watch out for rope drag as you mount the Nipple, and then ride it like a granite pony." lol. sounds like a fun route! Quote
Norsky Posted June 17, 2003 Posted June 17, 2003 I couldn't muster the balls to do Zodiac last summer. Damn! Quote
glassgowkiss Posted June 17, 2003 Posted June 17, 2003 (edited) smokin! fucking clown punching weed smoking crew from the ditch (aka the valley) can suck shit through the tube- Huber roolz! Edited June 17, 2003 by glassgowkiss Quote
Wallstein Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 erik said: does that include their fixed lines?? No but it does include all of the fixed gear they have in place for the free attempt. Which is alot. Quote
Skisports Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 I saw them workin the route when I was down there a few weeks ago it was only a matter of time untill the did something awesome Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 20, 2003 Posted June 20, 2003 Wallstein said: erik said: does that include their fixed lines?? No but it does include all of the fixed gear they have in place for the free attempt. Which is alot. fukin pinkpointers! Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 shit A moment of respite from all the jumaring for Thomas - and a rare moment when Thomas has Alex actually on belay. A few moments later Alex finishes the pitch and ties off the rope, and then it's back to the jumaring for Thomas! Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 Norsky said: Pinkpointing rules pink point my ass... brown point...i woulda shit my pants! Quote
ctuller Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 The pile of rope on the ledge is his "belay". Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 yeah it said he tied off slack to use for a belay as his brother was jumaring up the last pitch... all you bitches talking about pink point.... STFU... that was fucking burly Quote
bigwalling Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 Fence_Sitter said: shit That part is only .11 so it is super easy for him! Not for me though. Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 yeah, but if you loko at the previous picture, you can tell he is looking at like 30-40 feet of runout... that means a helluva whipper with 20 feet of slack that the bottom... what is that over a 100 feet? would you do that on a 5.9? Quote
bigwalling Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 No but I've free soloed 5.7. Of course the route was super short and it was at 38. Hubers done 14d, I've done 10-. So I'd feel comfertable at a level that much lower. That would be like 5.4/5.5 for me. Free soloed that stuff. But who hasn't?!? Have you heard what those guys do in the alps? 5.12+ onsight hand drilling on the lead. That's fricken crazy! I think he had 1 bolt on a 50m 5.12d pitch once. Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 bigwalling said: No but I've free soloed 5.7. Of course the route was super short and it was at 38. Hubers done 14d, I've done 10-. So I'd feel comfertable at a level that much lower. That would be like 5.4/5.5 for me. Free soloed that stuff. But who hasn't?!? Have you heard what those guys do in the alps? 5.12+ onsight hand drilling on the lead. That's fricken crazy! I think he had 1 bolt on a 50m 5.12d pitch once. no f-in way man... aint the same... dood... also... he was looking at a 100+ foot fall... on one piece of gear... aint no comparison... Quote
JoshK Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 Fuggin' awesome. Makes my palms sweat looking at it. Very cool. The pics are great! Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 bigwalling said: No but I've free soloed 5.7. Of course the route was super short and it was at 38. Hubers done 14d, I've done 10-. So I'd feel comfertable at a level that much lower. That would be like 5.4/5.5 for me. Free soloed that stuff. But who hasn't?!? Have you heard what those guys do in the alps? 5.12+ onsight hand drilling on the lead. That's fricken crazy! I think he had 1 bolt on a 50m 5.12d pitch once. there aint no way that it was taht easy for him... why would he even take a rope at all then? i certainly wouldn't he probably could have done it in an hour if this was the case... this was s-e-r-i-o-u-s climbing man... slip, you die... baddass! Quote
bigwalling Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 That pitch is still pretty easy for him. The guy has free soloed super hard routes that are looong. That part shown starts as .7 then .11 fingers to .8 hands (supertopo). So a guy like that would find it very easy. 5.11 is easy for Alex. He was climbing 5.12 cracks within a week of his first trad experiance! jake Quote
bigwalling Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 No my free solos are not the same! The 38 stuff was super easy and short. Maybe a 5.5 at Index. The stuff at Squamish was super easy too. But if I slipped it still would have sucked. Quote
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