Bronco Posted June 11, 2003 Posted June 11, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: Index- left of NF - think it's 195? route or so. E. Face of the North Peak put up in '51. 5.7 grade IV (Love those Becky 5.7's ) How bout the north face of Baring? That goes at 5.10 and definetly an alpine setting. No glacier but lots of route finding and brush, similar to Mt. Index. Quote
Off_White Posted June 11, 2003 Posted June 11, 2003 Also in the moderate but fun category, I'd include the Gerber/Sink route on the N Face of Dragontail. I think we finished with the top of the Hidden Couloir route, crossing the ledge system below the fin and topping out right at the summit. I thought it was much more fun than Serpentine Arete. The NE Buttress on Dragontail was also fun, less travelled which has its own appeal. Its a little schizophrenic, first half is an alpine rock climb and the last half more wandering and moderate, but with a great position. Be forewarned that the info in Beckey's guide may not be correct, since it did not jibe with what I observed (I may post a report and info sometime, if I ever get inspired to finish the project) but if you're prepared for 5.8ish rock any of several lines will get you there with a good adventure quotient. N Ridge of Forbidden is also a splendid outing. We did the ridge proper, not the snow face as recommended in Nelson's guide, and had a total blast. I'd echo Mattp's comments on N Ridge of Stuart. When I did the complete I was surprised by just how good and long the upper part was, since it always looked so small in photos. The second time around we just did the upper part, and it was great. There's also this route on the W Face of Silverstar I've been trying to cajole people into doing a second ascent of for awhile now, enough so that I think its becoming a bit of a joke. Obviously, I think its classic, and the rock is quite good, but its more 5.10ish and you'll want to bring the ropegun along for the hard fingercrack at the top. My wishlist looks like everyone else's, with the possible addition of Gunsight, and perhaps the Kearney route on N Face Bear, which looks a little shorter and easier than the DNB. Anyone here done either of these? Quote
bobbyperu Posted June 11, 2003 Posted June 11, 2003 whattup off! no joke... your route on silver star is on the short list... maybe this weekend. can't wait to finally check it out! also, maybe not really alpine, but as far as rock quality, veiws, exposure, and challenging climbing, the west face of colchuck balanced rock brings it, though if all free not really moderate... oh well... bobbyp p.s. whos been on castle peak? oh yeah the se butt on cathederal pk is pretty boss too, again not really alpine but oot- there... another thing off- skeriks playing with areally cool group on the 4th of july in seattle you should checkit... Quote
ken4ord Posted June 11, 2003 Author Posted June 11, 2003 Bronco said: Cpt.Caveman said: Index- left of NF - think it's 195? route or so. E. Face of the North Peak put up in '51. 5.7 grade IV (Love those Becky 5.7's ) How bout the north face of Baring? That goes at 5.10 and definetly an alpine setting. No glacier but lots of route finding and brush, similar to Mt. Index. Yeah North Face of Baring looks cool. Anyone been on that. An up high roof traverse looks like fun and plenty of exposure. I guess fun if there is gear? Quote
layton Posted June 12, 2003 Posted June 12, 2003 Back of Beyond Buttress! My favorite rockclimb ever. ****! Quote
j_b Posted June 13, 2003 Posted June 13, 2003 michael_layton said: Back of Beyond Buttress! My favorite rockclimb ever. ****! tell us about it. Quote
Off_White Posted June 13, 2003 Posted June 13, 2003 michael_layton said: Back of Beyond Buttress! My favorite rockclimb ever. ****! Yup, looks great, I bet it gets some traffic this summer. Quote
jordop Posted June 14, 2003 Posted June 14, 2003 j_b said: michael_layton said: Back of Beyond Buttress! My favorite rockclimb ever. ****! tell us about it. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB8&Number=61928&page=7&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=all I refuse to hyperbolize further Go do it Wait until all the snow is melted at the base so you can have as much of the 1st ptch as possible Quote
Dru Posted June 14, 2003 Posted June 14, 2003 Informed opinion is that Lillarete is better than BOB Quote
ken4ord Posted June 14, 2003 Author Posted June 14, 2003 Yeah dats da chit I'm talking about. F-man that sounded like a great day out. Heres to you guys . Oooh now I dying to get to that area. Just anywhere at the pass since I haven't been there yet. Anyone, any route up for going up there next week, during the weekday (5/16-5/20) that is? Quote
DougGeller Posted June 15, 2003 Posted June 15, 2003 Forbidden Slesse Stuart Prusik or Dragontail Cathedral Group Liberty Bell If you want the rock quality to be high this is what I suggest the big difference being the degree of committment and the approach/descent. There's a whole lot to choose from more if you are not offended by some loose pitches, heather, lack of crowds, and so on. Quote
layton Posted June 16, 2003 Posted June 16, 2003 I keep hearin' 'bout the cathedral, grimface, castle, etc. Good place to go when it's rainin' here? Weather better than WA pass generally? Quote
bobbyperu Posted June 22, 2003 Posted June 22, 2003 cathederal is lovely search for mr.naturals pics, should give an idea, but pics can't really do justice to the feeling of being far out(man), on perfect climbing. definatly checkit... and throw some horseshoes and drink scmidtty at the tungsten mine , all stocked up! bobbyp Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.