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savaiusini

Mt. Adams north side TR 6/6-8

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Right on laugh.gif Tell Bill F that we saw his name in the Challenger register. It looks like we were following his tracks instead of the other way around. That place absolutely kicks ass!

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the approach couldn't have been easier. patchy snow from the car, then continuous snow from about 5,000 ft. up. we ended up making a minor variation on the way in, but pretty well hugged the summer trail on the ski out. there are a few pink flourescent ribbons in trees marking the way.

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The approach to adams is a morning stroll, we had 10-16 hour days for 4 days. Our route was something of our own construction, still, anyway you look at it anything in the pickets is an everest of an approach compared to adams, especially with skis. Ask Bill, he'll tell you how it is...

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AllYouCanEat said:

The approach to adams is a morning stroll, we had 10-16 hour days for 4 days. .

 

It took 4 days for the approach or for the total trip?

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The trip. We had to climb over a few other mountains on the way though and returned via an alternate route.

 

I wish I had 4 more to spend out there.

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I think AllYouCanEat is talking about the approach to Challenger...The approach to Adams is only a couple hours via pretty flat terrain (a morning stroll).

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Ben has half his pics and I am getting all of my slides back today. We took about 120 photos. That is wayyy more than we usually take. We climbed Whatcom, Mineral, and 3 summits of Challenger...

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Nice job with the climb and ski savaiusini. cool.gif So I take it you can drive all the way to the Killen Creek Trailhead now?

 

How did the Adams Glacier look? Pretty broken up?

 

It looks like the central rock section on Stormy Monday is still covered with snow from that annotated photo.

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Yes, Killen Creek TH is attainable via Rd. #21. Apparently, the drive via #23 is still blocked.

 

Adams Glacier looked very smooth. thumbs_up.gif Even though it looked smooth, there is still need for caution: We actually saw a 2 person party on the route while we were on the N. Ridge. They were moving pretty slowly. When we got to the top of the west peak, they were just crossing the final schrund and heading towards the N. Ridge/"Big Tuna" gully. Later that evening, while we were skiing near camp, they finally made it down. One of them had been hit in the head with a good size rock that had fallen from a rock band on the NFNWR. His head was bandaged and there was blood all over his clothes. If he hadn't been wearing a helmet, he'd surely have been dead. hellno3d.gif

For god's sake, be careful out there! wave.gif

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I was on Adam Gl last Sunday. Very easy, straight up the right side of glacier. 4 1/2 hours from 7000 ft camp.

 

Erick

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Nice photos and TR. Maybe that approach coulior on W Ridge of Forbidden still awaits a first ski descent? It's hard to justify that I actually climbed that route when everyone and his brother is skiing down it. Eight screws and six pickets and then these yahoos make it look like Bunny Hill. thumbs_up.gif

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Hey Erick,

 

Easy? Wow, sounds like you just kicked steps right up that sucker. Did you use ropes, running belays? Did you pitch it out any? Second tools?

 

I thought Adams Gl would involve some of the above. Please advise.

 

Congrats on your climb - way to go, man. thumbs_up.gif

Dox

 

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We brought second tools & pickets never took them off the pack. We were roped but didn't belay any pitchs.

We had great conditions with one short bridge crossing.

I was very surprised how easy it was, I don't think the slope ever got any steeper 45 degrees.

 

On the way down the North Ridge (around 10 grand) we traverse climber left to the long diamond shape snowfield. Much quicker then coming down that shitty North Ridge.

 

Have Fun

Erick

Edited by EJohnson

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The North Face of Northwest Ridge was in really good condition this weekend. Nice firm snow and no rockfall from the Northwest Ridge. I love looking down on the Adams Glacier. Quite a beautiful sight. We heard a huge ice avalanche on the Adams Glacier at about 8:00PM on Saturday from high camp, just as we fell asleep.

 

The 3.1 mile Killen Creek Trail is currently snow free for the first 1.3 miles.

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dkemp said:

Easy? Wow, sounds like you just kicked steps right up that sucker. Did you use ropes, running belays? Did you pitch it out any? Second tools?

 

I thought Adams Gl would involve some of the above. Please advise.

 

No, for the most part Adams Gl. is very straightforward. Single tool, no pro other than glacier travel stuff needed (YMMV).

 

I have some pics here if you want to see what it looks like in typical early summer.

 

http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/adams.htm

 

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Just finished Adams Glacier route. The route is quite easy right now, although I don't think it would ever be very hard unless there were serious ice climbing in late season. The North Ridge sucks, why is it even a climbing route? If you go soon don't bring a second tool, just a ski pole, don't bring pickets, don't bring ropes, don't bring a tent if the forecast is good as the bugs were a non-issue. If can definitely be done car to car as we did it with sleeping in around 23 hours.

 

Have Fun, it's a beautiful route with all the seracs!

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