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texplorer

Menagerie

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Who all here has climbed at the Menagerie? I climbed there this weekend. Was just curious as to what are some of your recommended climbs there.

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I’ve only been there once, but I led the SE Corner slab on Hen rock, which was fun. There was a harder route on the North side of Hen that we top-roped. I seem to remember that line taking gear or having a bolt or two, too, so you'd prolly lead it. The coolest route I did there was the West Face Dihedrals, Direct on Rooster Rock.

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Do the 2 Rabbit ears for sure. I like Newts route on Bridge. Anything on the lower Menag. And of course THE MONSTER is out there!!!5.11b/c evils3d.gif

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I've been interested in climbing out there but have been unable to find out any info. Is there some sort of published route guide or is it pretty much just word of mouth? TIA

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There is a guide by Nick Dodge floating around out there. It has been out of print for quite some time, but can be helpful if you can find it. There is a copy at Mazama Lodge on the bookshelf if you happen to be in the Hood area. Sometimes shows up at Powell's.

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The locals like the obscurity to keep it from getting crowded. They made it very clear to Tim they didnt want any beta in his book.

You could find a copy in the portland mazama library. I am lucky to have 2 of each of the printings. Why are climbers so anal about books?

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The approach itself is enough to keep it from getting too crowded... not exactly a "bumper belay" area.

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wouldn't want the turkey monster going on a rampage and eating the touristas.

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Anybody out there interested in parting with (or photocopying) the Dodge guide or any other info? It'd be nice to know what I was getting into before I start bushwacking. pitty.gif that goes lookin fo tha turkey monsta without beta or the HCL.gif

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Here's the approach hike:

 

ja_001.jpg

 

This is Rabbit Ears:

 

ja_003.jpg

 

And this is some crazy formation out there:

 

ja_002.jpg

 

* Photos by Jim Anglin.

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thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

 

what about a pic of this here turkey monster?

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I don't know what this is (doesn't look like a turkey), but it's out there too:

 

ja_006.jpg

 

* Again, photo by Jim Anglin. thumbs_up.gif

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so its a 2-3mi hike in, would that really discourage many climbers? damn we be lazy. looks like some fun stuff, steins pillar on lsd

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About 8 years ago I was able to drive to within a mile or so of some of the formations. I was high on a ridge. I think on the north west side of the wilderness area on some old logging road. I heard the FS was going to close and/or not maintain some of these roads so you may be SOL. Just a thought. As for Books, the Clackamas County Library used to have a copy of one of the dodge books. Check it out and photo copy away. I would have to say it is not a fun place, there is no adventrue climbing, don't go wink.gif

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gapertimmy said:

so its a 2-3mi hike in, would that really discourage many climbers? damn we be lazy. looks like some fun stuff, steins pillar on lsd

 

Yes, its 2-3mi and unrelenting 2200+ft of elevation gain. Needless to say I haven't seen alot of boulderers up there.

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yes and please don't get injured up there it is a pain in the ass getting a litter up and down that trail. BTW the above photo is rooster rock. there are bolted lines.

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Dont forget to mention, Ian, that the bolts are liberally spaced so you people that complain about Smith bolts shouldn't even consider this place. Those guys that developed the place were some bad ass hombres.

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agreed, spaced just enough to maybe keep you alive and prevent you from littering a wilderness area with your femur. Much of that stuff was pioneered by the same folks who put up those ice axe/piton "routes" on Three Fingered Jack. yellaf.gif

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is any of these pinnacles named after the snaf.gif or just birds?

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