texplorer Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 Who all here has climbed at the Menagerie? I climbed there this weekend. Was just curious as to what are some of your recommended climbs there. Quote
nonanon Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 I’ve only been there once, but I led the SE Corner slab on Hen rock, which was fun. There was a harder route on the North side of Hen that we top-roped. I seem to remember that line taking gear or having a bolt or two, too, so you'd prolly lead it. The coolest route I did there was the West Face Dihedrals, Direct on Rooster Rock. Quote
wayne Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 Do the 2 Rabbit ears for sure. I like Newts route on Bridge. Anything on the lower Menag. And of course THE MONSTER is out there!!!5.11b/c Quote
J_Kirby Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 I've been interested in climbing out there but have been unable to find out any info. Is there some sort of published route guide or is it pretty much just word of mouth? TIA Quote
iain Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 There is a guide by Nick Dodge floating around out there. It has been out of print for quite some time, but can be helpful if you can find it. There is a copy at Mazama Lodge on the bookshelf if you happen to be in the Hood area. Sometimes shows up at Powell's. Quote
wayne Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 The locals like the obscurity to keep it from getting crowded. They made it very clear to Tim they didnt want any beta in his book. You could find a copy in the portland mazama library. I am lucky to have 2 of each of the printings. Why are climbers so anal about books? Quote
jkrueger Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 The approach itself is enough to keep it from getting too crowded... not exactly a "bumper belay" area. Quote
iain Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 wouldn't want the turkey monster going on a rampage and eating the touristas. Quote
J_Kirby Posted May 30, 2003 Posted May 30, 2003 Anybody out there interested in parting with (or photocopying) the Dodge guide or any other info? It'd be nice to know what I was getting into before I start bushwacking. that goes lookin fo tha turkey monsta without beta or the Quote
jkrueger Posted May 30, 2003 Posted May 30, 2003 Here's the approach hike: This is Rabbit Ears: And this is some crazy formation out there: * Photos by Jim Anglin. Quote
jkrueger Posted May 30, 2003 Posted May 30, 2003 I don't know what this is (doesn't look like a turkey), but it's out there too: * Again, photo by Jim Anglin. Quote
gapertimmy Posted May 30, 2003 Posted May 30, 2003 so its a 2-3mi hike in, would that really discourage many climbers? damn we be lazy. looks like some fun stuff, steins pillar on lsd Quote
MATT_B Posted May 30, 2003 Posted May 30, 2003 About 8 years ago I was able to drive to within a mile or so of some of the formations. I was high on a ridge. I think on the north west side of the wilderness area on some old logging road. I heard the FS was going to close and/or not maintain some of these roads so you may be SOL. Just a thought. As for Books, the Clackamas County Library used to have a copy of one of the dodge books. Check it out and photo copy away. I would have to say it is not a fun place, there is no adventrue climbing, don't go Quote
gapertimmy Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 fwiw, looks like there are quite a few copies of the book floating around the library system(s) LINK Quote
J_Kirby Posted June 2, 2003 Posted June 2, 2003 Thanks for the heads up. Looks like a little trip to the library is in order. Quote
texplorer Posted June 3, 2003 Author Posted June 3, 2003 gapertimmy said: so its a 2-3mi hike in, would that really discourage many climbers? damn we be lazy. looks like some fun stuff, steins pillar on lsd Yes, its 2-3mi and unrelenting 2200+ft of elevation gain. Needless to say I haven't seen alot of boulderers up there. Quote
iain Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 yes and please don't get injured up there it is a pain in the ass getting a litter up and down that trail. BTW the above photo is rooster rock. there are bolted lines. Quote
texplorer Posted June 3, 2003 Author Posted June 3, 2003 Dont forget to mention, Ian, that the bolts are liberally spaced so you people that complain about Smith bolts shouldn't even consider this place. Those guys that developed the place were some bad ass hombres. Quote
iain Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 agreed, spaced just enough to maybe keep you alive and prevent you from littering a wilderness area with your femur. Much of that stuff was pioneered by the same folks who put up those ice axe/piton "routes" on Three Fingered Jack. Quote
Dru Posted June 3, 2003 Posted June 3, 2003 is any of these pinnacles named after the or just birds? Quote
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