catbirdseat Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 I want to know what you all think of this thing, the Trango Alpine Equalizer. Is it a boon or a gimmick. It is a substitute for a cordalette. They say you can use clove hitches on each piece of pro if you want to avoid extension. Quote
erik Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 seems too limited TO ME. you are forced to use it in the configuration that it is set up for. also expensive. doesnt look like oyu can cut it up and make it useful. Quote
Thinker Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 I agree. If you like the concept, just buy a webolette. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 16, 2003 Author Posted May 16, 2003 You are limited to two or three placements. If you want four, you need to add a separate sling. Quote
rr666 Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 Shit, I can't believe they charge $34.00 for that. OUCH!! I think I will just stick with my cordelette. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 16, 2003 Author Posted May 16, 2003 Here's a dumbass question. Are there people who do NOT tie a figure eight or overhand knot in their cordalettes when setting up an anchor, thereby creating a self-equalizing anchor, but one subject to extension? Quote
ctuller Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 How's the twist work? The setup is just too manky w/o the knot. If a piece blows, you shock load the rest. That's bad juju. The trango piece is too expensive, too specialized. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 catbirdseat said: I want to know what you all think of this thing, the Trango Alpine Equalizer. Is it a boon or a gimmick. It is a substitute for a cordalette. They say you can use clove hitches on each piece of pro if you want to avoid extension. Fuckin' buy it. Like ligthweight harnesses, bent-gate 'biners, Gri-gris, and chipped pockets, all those trad goons are gonna say it sucks 'cause it's new and it wasn't in 'The Whole Pure and Natural Guide to Organic Protection and Oval Carabiner Hip Belaying with a 1" Tubular Webbing Swami in Painter's Pants', which came out in 1967, even though it probably kicks more ass than Bruce Lee brawling with a dozen donkeys. Don't listen to those jaded tradoids, they don' know what they're talking about! Quote
JoshK Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 I dunno, a plain on cordelette/webolette seems a hellavu lot more versitile than me. I've gernally found getting and setting good placements to take more time than the equalization of the pieces with my cordelette. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 16, 2003 Author Posted May 16, 2003 Fern, that is a personal anchor. I don't think it is meant for belay anchors. It's kind of weird. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 16, 2003 Author Posted May 16, 2003 I'm with you Josh. You can do many, many different things with an ordinary cordellete that you could not with that Trango thingamajig. Plus I am a cheapskate. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 fern said: what about this thingmajig? link Nah, it's just too Metolius. Best to stick with some Goldline and a couple pitons. It could make things too convenient and cause beginners to find out that there's actually an easy way to do anything. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 16, 2003 Author Posted May 16, 2003 What are you getting all excited about DFA? You don't need a cordalette when you've got handy chain anchors. Just throw a couple of draws on and you're good to go. Quote
fern Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 catbirdseat said: Fern, that is a personal anchor. I don't think it is meant for belay anchors. It's kind of weird. second picture there yo, shiz is meant to be versatile and multi purpose. I'd never buy one but some people like FLASHy things .... Quote
JoshK Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 Also, while not it's intended use, I can't count the number of times I've been able to sling a horn and use my extra long (12 feet, doubled) spectra cordalette to aid in tricky downclimbing. Although making up for being a sucky climber is probably not the prime reason to decide on an anchor building helper. Quote
scot'teryx Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 Just had a clinic by the Trango guy on wednesday It seems like it's worth trying it out. Unlike a cordelette it will self equalize at almost all times. I.E. If you tie off your cordelette in the downward direction of the route, and if the person following has to traverse or go left or right at all and they fall, it will actually weight just one piece. You can also clove hitch the tie in points to each bolt or piece to allow even more equalization. I guess the one thing you have to watch out for is the sewn part of the runner cannot be near the ring that equalizes as it will get caught and not allow for the runner to equalize It can also be used in different lengths, so it does not have to be for 3 pieces or bolts, you can tie of 2 ends to one bolt or gear for shorter anchors, or use just 2 ends for tie in point for a long anchor. From the demonstration, it is also good for larger trees and stuff as well as it works well as a long runner. But then again, what the hell do i know? Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 i think it sounds like a good idea for certain circumstances, like multi pitch trad where you know what the belays are like (but how often is that the case). it is obviously a specialty item...mabe it would be good in the gunks? with all those horizontal cracks you could fast and easily equalize your anchors... but it's pricey for a specialized pice of anchor equipment... Quote
Dru Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 if you just "drop acid and free solo" you will never have to use a stupid spendy specialized anchor set up however let it be said "free soloing is aid" Quote
chucK Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 scot'teryx said: Unlike a cordelette it will self equalize at almost all times. I.E. If you tie off your cordelette in the downward direction of the route, and if the person following has to traverse or go left or right at all and they fall, it will actually weight just one piece. A cordelette will equalize at all times too if you don't tie the knot at the anchor point. The reason you might choose to tie the knot at the anchor point is so you don't get huge extension/shock load if one anchor blows. If you want to avoid this with the Trango thingamajig you have to tie THREE knots. It looks more difficult to sling a horn or fashion the Trango thingy into Texas-Prussik footloops. The Trango thingy also looks heavier and more unwieldy to carry on your harness. Cordelettes made out of spectra-whatever are not cheap at 1+ bucks/foot, but still come in cheaper than $34. Quote
JoshK Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 The more specialized your gear getss, the less circumstances under which it can be used. This is why I call bullshit on wanker stuff like this. I'd rather keep it simple and be able to carry as little gear as possible and do as many things as possible with it. Quote
Bronco Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 catbirdseat said: Yes, Erik, 'splain the twist. read this article: YOU WILL DIE IF YOU USE THE "DEATH X"!!!!!! anywho, Mark Twight says to use it so I say"OK!" unless......I think one of my anchor pieces may fail , then I use a cordolette with a figure 8. I wonder why Mark Twight thinks the death x is ok to use on sketchy alpine anchors? Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 16, 2003 Author Posted May 16, 2003 (edited) Oh, THAT twist. That prevents total failure of the anchor should on piece fail, but does nothing to prevent extension due to the failure. As the article says, you can use a sliding knot to self-equalize two sketchy pieces and then equalize THAT UNIT with other more secure pieces on a cordalette tied with a knot. Edited May 16, 2003 by catbirdseat Quote
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