cman Posted May 9, 2003 Share Posted May 9, 2003 Tony Yaniro, crack master, is coming to Stone Gardens and is holding a crack climbing clinic on May 29th from 6:30 to 9:30 pm. Space is limited so sign up early. cost is $40 for annual members and $50 for others www.stonegardens.com i apologize in advance for the shameless plug, but it is pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 gym cracks are icky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Agreed. The ones at SG are better than any other gym I've been to. But I can't see paying $40 to learn on plastic. They are not a good simulation of the real thing. Maybe there's a new dimension to gym climbing being born. Plastic cracks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Someone needs to take a pavement saw to those unused nuculer cooling towers down by Centralia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 ehmmic said: Agreed. The ones at SG are better than any other gym I've been to. But I can't see paying $40 to learn on plastic. They are not a good simulation of the real thing. Maybe there's a new dimension to gym climbing being born. Plastic cracks! There's a nitch market... molded replicas of classic hard crack pitch cruxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eerie Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 Did anyone venture to this clinic with Tony Yaniro? How was it and how did he present crack climbing techniques? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 ehmmic said: Maybe there's a new dimension to gym climbing being born. Plastic cracks! oh, gawd; next thing you know we're gonna see plastic pin scars ... and aid climbing! but really; i'm also curious to know if anybody did go and how it went! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 Tony Yaniro, master hold shaper behind such fantastic outdoor chip & glue fests such as Hypersoul and blah blah blah... and bolter of crack climbs like Le Boogieman Will now teach technique for sticking tinfoil in pockets of route, then rushing home to Randy's garage and making exact replicas to practice crux See Climbing Mag ish 106, June 1991 for more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 'From each according to their means, to each according to their needs.' thanks toni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted June 4, 2003 Share Posted June 4, 2003 Libra Crack is hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted June 4, 2003 Share Posted June 4, 2003 Stone gardens cracks me up: "Route Setters Stone Gardens is looking for men and women interested in becoming route-setters. You must meet the following requirements: Be able to climb 5.11 comfortably. Be able to climb V5 comfortably. " V5 comfortably? I must be a real gumby, but I can't climb V3 comfortably! Good luck to SG! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 4, 2003 Share Posted June 4, 2003 you forgot: "Be able to leap tall buildings in a single bound." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted June 4, 2003 Share Posted June 4, 2003 thelawgoddess said: you forgot: "Be able to leap tall buildings in a single bound." V5's always look like that to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted June 4, 2003 Author Share Posted June 4, 2003 i didn't go to the clinic but i heard it was pretty cool. I guess he has excellent teaching technique. he also did a clinic for the route setters so i would be interested if anyone can notice a difference in route quality. and what, you can't climb V5 comfortably?? too much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted June 8, 2003 Share Posted June 8, 2003 I learned to climb .10 cracks on a .9ish crack in the gym. They are not reality but it is possible to learn to climb cracks in the gym. As for Yaniro, I have heard good things about him but then again who cares about other climbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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