Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Fence_Sitter said: never accidentally pull your not-fully-untied knot up to the anchors where it will then create a huge clusterhassle has anyone ever actually done this?!?! if you have...let me know, cause i dont wanna climb with you... You've seriously never heard of this happening? Shit, one of DFA's friends did it several years back. Luckily, it was on 5-Gallon Buckets, and DFA saw what was happening and hollered, so the knot only got about 25 feet up and we were able to just climb up to it. Just like most climbing mistakes or accidents, it only takes a momentary lapse in attention, and then you've created an obnoxious pain in the arse. *EDIT* And the set-off-climbing-with-an-unfinished-knot trick has been performed by both Dan Osman (who looked down and watched his rope slide out of his harness, and managed to down-solo to his last bolt and get clipped in) and Lynn Hill (who pitched off a route in France, fell into/through a tree, and cratered from 60 feet [?] up, fortunately escaping with only busted ankles). Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 and let's not forget the case of LYNN HILL splatting from the top of the Styx wall at Buoux due to not finishing her figure 8...Guess what knot she's tyin' in w/ now?? GOOD OL' Bowline... Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 RuMR said: and let's not forget the case of LYNN HILL splatting from the top of the Styx wall at Buoux due to not finishing her figure 8...Guess what knot she's tyin' in w/ now?? GOOD OL' Bowline... That's the anecdote in question! Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: RuMR said: and let's not forget the case of LYNN HILL splatting from the top of the Styx wall at Buoux due to not finishing her figure 8...Guess what knot she's tyin' in w/ now?? GOOD OL' Bowline... That's the anecdote in question! Yeah...but she's just a lame sporto, right??? [Dripping Sarcasm] Quote
adventuregal Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Alex said: adventuregal asks some really good, age-old questions. These have all been answered before, but the answers arent easy, and often arent satisfying. What makes a good climbing partnership? Like any good personal relationship: trust, tolerance, mutual respect, humor, mutual contribution, alot of work, sacrifice. So many other factors. Dryad and adventuregal, and anyone else interested in getting out with more experienced people, the first step is to meet people. Go to the gym. Go to Pub Club!!! There are many many many excellent people at pub club. Thanks for all the tips, Alex!! With lots of practice and some trust-worthy partners I'll be more knowledgable about climbing in no time... And actually, I think I'll be at Pub Club next week!! Quote
Sphinx Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Actually, she tied in with a bowline. And I have created a clusterfuck by pulling a single figure-8 up to the chains. So I lead a climb right next to it, and managed to get the rope down. I don't want to do that again, though! Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Sphinx said: Actually, she tied in with a bowline. And I have created a clusterfuck by pulling a single figure-8 up to the chains. So I lead a climb right next to it, and managed to get the rope down. I don't want to do that again, though! No...she did not! It was an incomplete 8... Quote
texplorer Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Lynn maybe a sporto, but she can climb the nose in a day and there's not too much sport climbin on that bitch. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 texplorer said: Lynn maybe a sporto, but she can climb the nose in a day and there's not too much sport climbin on that bitch. I AGGRE, LYNN IS CLEARLY NOT A SPORTO! dfa; YOU ARE FUNNY AND DUMB! figure8'S are a very smart knot to use when multipitching.... bowline are useful if you can'T send and fall a lot on sportoclimbs Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 awful lot of smack talking in here!!!!! Whew...can't stand the heat, i'm outta here... Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 texplorer said: Lynn maybe a sporto, but she can climb the nose in a day and there's not too much sport climbin on that bitch. Dear Tex...please look up term "dripping sarcasm" and explain to the class... she's actually a rockclimber pure and simple...not sporto not trado just climbero Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Szyjakowski said: [ dfa; YOU ARE FUNNY AND DUMB! Hey, hey, let's all be nice to one another and get along like kindergarten, shall we? No bogarting the crayons, etc. Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Fence_Sitter said: dont let the door hit ya on the way out as long as its not your foot, i'm good... Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 RuMR said: and let's not forget the case of LYNN HILL splatting from the top of the Styx wall at Buoux due to not finishing her figure 8...Guess what knot she's tyin' in w/ now?? GOOD OL' Bowline... bowline...yes the knot that a climber from the PCN died using in index... Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 RuMR said: Fence_Sitter said: dont let the door hit ya on the way out as long as its not your foot, i'm good... wouldn't be too sure bucko Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 and by the way...i thought you were leaving!?!? addictive aint it? Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Listen, you fuck any knot up and it will not work, right? Figure 8's have advantages and disadvantages, bowlines properly dressed have advantages and disadvantages...this is like arguing ford vs. chevy and then not changing the oil for 200k miles...both will die on you, duh! Personally, i'd rather tie in w/ a double bowline w/ a rethread...been doing it for 18 years now, averaging climbing (w/ lots of falling ) three days a week...haven't had it come undone under some big falls and am willing to bet you'll break the rope before the knot yields... Dumb discussion... Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Fence_Sitter said: RuMR said: Fence_Sitter said: dont let the door hit ya on the way out as long as its not your foot, i'm good... wouldn't be too sure bucko just remember its climbing season, so no crampons please... Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 (edited) Fence_Sitter said: and by the way...i thought you were leaving!?!? addictive aint it? worse than my crack smokin' daze!!! Plus i'm scared to turn my back on you...might get kicked in the Edited May 9, 2003 by RuMR Quote
fern Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Szyjakowski said: dfa; YOU ARE FUNNY AND DUMB! hey I called you that first. plagiarist. find your own childish insults sillycowpee. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Fence_Sitter said: bowline...yes the knot that a climber from the PCN died using in index... Bowline = not the same as the uber-safe DBBB. Get your shit right. Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Fence_Sitter said: bowline...yes the knot that a climber from the PCN died using in index... Bowline = not the same as the uber-safe DBBB. Get your shit right. AMEN Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 11, 2003 Posted May 11, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Hey, hey, let's all be nice to one another and get along like kindergarten, shall we? No bogarting the crayons, etc. give my fukin crayons back you beyotch! Quote
specialed Posted May 11, 2003 Posted May 11, 2003 I'll stick this crayola so far up your ass... Quote
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